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Old 01-04-2013, 05:16 PM   #21
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I agree with peter! Secondaries are pointless unless you are adding something you don't want wiped out by fermentation like fruit or other flavors! Dry hopping i just throw in the primary after fermentation is done! Re racking just ups the chance of contamination! Cheers!

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Old 01-04-2013, 05:20 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by brettamuss View Post
I agree with peter! Secondaries are pointless unless you are adding something you don't want wiped out by fermentation like fruit or other flavors! Dry hopping i just throw in the primary after fermentation is done! Re racking just ups the chance of contamination! Cheers!
Yeah, I've actually started dry hopping in the primary as well. It's so much easier and the results are identical!
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:26 PM   #23
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I just finished my 1st brewing session on the 30th of December. 2 5gallon batches of an IPA.

Cant wait to brew again once I evict this brew and put it in bottles.

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Old 01-04-2013, 05:46 PM   #24
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Congrats!

Best way to get patience is building a pipeline, which ironically, takes a LOT of patience. But once you have a decent pipeline of home brew, you'll be able to wait 1 month in the primary without thinking twice.
Could not agree more.

The best way to achieve this is to buy additional fermenting buckets. At less than 20 bucks a piece with the lids and airlocks, these are probably the best investment for a new brewer who has a patience problem. I bought three extra buckets within a week, which allowed me to get my pipeline full really quickly. At the beginning, patience was impossible for me (my first brew was bottled less than 10 days after brewing). Now, I can easily allow brews to sit for at least three weeks before bottling/kegging because I have a good variety of homebrew sitting around.
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:46 PM   #25
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Has it been three weeks yet?

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Old 01-08-2013, 01:39 AM   #26
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So it's been going siince last Wednesday and I took the reading attached today - am I running a little too cold? See attached thermometer reading. There is blue at 61 but also residual up to 64.

image-82638684.jpg



image-1830843475.jpg

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Old 01-08-2013, 12:45 PM   #27
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Told a tad on the cold side just extends the fermentation time. It may also make for a smoother beer with less off-tastes. Its not like your in the low to mid-50s.. Just on the cool side.

Looking at the good bubbles there, I think it will be fine.

But what do I know.. I just bottled my first batch..

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Old 01-08-2013, 12:51 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by CDGoin View Post
Told a tad on the cold side just extends the fermentation time. It may also make for a smoother beer with less off-tastes. Its not like your in the low to mid-50s.. Just on the cool side.

Looking at the good bubbles there, I think it will be fine.

But what do I know.. I just bottled my first batch..
This is true, yeast work slower the colder it is, but too warm can create off-flavors. What yeast did you use? Some yeast can go dormant at that temperature, but most will be fine. Now that the most vigorous part of fermentation is over you can let the beer warm up if you can. This will encourage the yeast to finish fermenting all that they can and clean up off-flavors and by-products more efficiently.
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:08 PM   #29
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Sorry - noob here and I used the yeast that they handed me at Northwest for my kit. Next time I brew I will be able to answer that question. I moved to an upstairs closet a few degrees warmer.

Side note: never tasted flat-ish beer before but this sample was great! Everyone loves their own kids though...

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Old 01-08-2013, 01:39 PM   #30
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mmmmmm... hydrometer samples = delicious!

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