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Old 12-26-2013, 05:32 PM   #11
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I think one packet of yeast is plenty for the brew you have. I'm doing a 5 Gallon batch American IPa and im just using 1 packet of Safale 05. it's plenty.

Keep us updated and let us know how it turns out
I defer on the yeast to T29 who is an IPA brewer and a US-05 user. I gave my opinion on the yeast based on the 1.069 expected OG before a more experienced brewer chimed in. I'll retract that. Thanks for chiming in T29.
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Old 12-26-2013, 05:39 PM   #12
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Im fairly new to the brewing scene also. I have never had a problem or stuck fermentation with one packet of yeast. I have used a starter and pitched without and they both have worked out great. The only difference i have noticed is the starter starts to ferment much quicker.

My OG on my last IPA was 1.069 and its looking pretty good so far

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Old 12-26-2013, 06:50 PM   #13
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One last question, the recipe came with 6lbs Pilsen dry malt extract split into two 3lb bags and 1lb of brewers crystal 56% maltose corn syrup. I was looking through the instructions and they say to only add one bag of the DME after steeping the grains and then to add the other bag and the brewers crystal 15 minutes into the boil, I've never heard of splitting up the DME like that before is it common or should I add it all after steeping the grain?

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Old 12-26-2013, 07:30 PM   #14
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One last question, the recipe came with 6lbs Pilsen dry malt extract split into two 3lb bags and 1lb of brewers crystal 56% maltose corn syrup. I was looking through the instructions and they say to only add one bag of the DME after steeping the grains and then to add the other bag and the brewers crystal 15 minutes into the boil, I've never heard of splitting up the DME like that before is it common or should I add it all after steeping the grain?
It's very common. It is referred to as Late Addition. DME will darken as it boils so adding it all right at the beginning will result in a darker beer. This is called the Maillard Reaction. Adding it late is actual the more common practice and will result in the beer being closer in SRM color for the style you are brewing.
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Old 12-26-2013, 07:35 PM   #15
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Steep the grains and prep the main pot of water and make sure its boiling, make sure you have let the grains steep for however long (30min) then add the steep water to the boiling water then add the DME to the pot and boil and as per instructions, add the rest of the DME into the boil with the crystals.

I just prep the pot of boiling water and once everythings at temp and time is given for the grains to steep, i just add the steeped water to the boil and add all the DME and whatever sugars are given and boil for 60min. If that makes any sense lol

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Old 12-26-2013, 07:41 PM   #16
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Steep the grains and prep the main pot of water and make sure its boiling, make sure you have let the grains steep for however long (30min) then add the steep water to the boiling water then add the DME to the pot and boil and as per instructions, add the rest of the DME into the boil with the crystals.

I just prep the pot of boiling water and once everythings at temp and time is given for the grains to steep, i just add the steeped water to the boil and add all the DME and whatever sugars are given and boil for 60min. If that makes any sense lol
We just can't agree on anything can we? LOL
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Old 12-26-2013, 07:42 PM   #17
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I was re-reading what i wrote lol. My kids are playing and i can't think straight. but what you said is right.

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Old 12-27-2013, 05:37 PM   #18
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One question about hops before I get started with all of this. The recipe kit was supposed to come with one ounce each of Columbus, chinook centennial, cascade and nugget hops. However it came with an extra ounce of each nugget and Columbus. Then the recipe says to combine all the hops together and weigh out an ounce for bittering, aroma, dry hopping and then two ounces for dry hopping. I don't understand why I would combine all the hops like that and then weigh out the different additions. If I choose to keep the hopes separate what should I use for each edition, for example cascade for bittering or chinook for bittering? I'm not positive which is best for what. Also can I use the extra two ounces got or is seven ounces too much? Thanks guys.

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Old 12-27-2013, 05:40 PM   #19
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My guess is the extra hops are for dry hopping

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Old 12-27-2013, 05:46 PM   #20
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Yeah that's the only thing I could think of. Is there any pros to combining all the hops like that?

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