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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > Fermentation can take 24 to 72 hrs to show visible signs.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:35 PM   #831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ogri View Post
I would say, NO.

Sounds like you might have some chlorophenol type compound there.

When you say "like iodine", is it a medicinal, band-aid type flavour? The "burnt rubber" suggests acrid or sort of an astringent flavour, but does it resemble a plastic-y type of Taste?

What puzzles me is that you say that it smells fine.

My only experience of a truly infected brew, to my knowledge, was that it tasted absolutely fine but the aroma from the fermenter had a slightly moldy hint, kind of like penicillin. Have another brew that had a bit of an oil paint/thinners smell about it and tasted a mixture of sweet, bitter and slightly sour but that might have been some other cause, although both brews were going at the same time and right next to each other, right enough. I attributed the off flavours and smells to a possibly too high fermentation temp at some point in the first few days.
Update:
I brought a bottle of this Brown Ale to my friend Tom at The Reno Homebrewer... He knew what went wrong as soon as he opened it. Apparently some wild yeast made it into the brew, causing the awful flavor...
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:39 PM   #832
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The most common problem I've read about, and experienced myself, is not having an airtight seal, seal it up and you're good to go!

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Old 12-13-2012, 02:20 AM   #833
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Evening all I just brewed my first batch of an 90 minute clone Monday evening and did a starte for the first time using White Labs WLP001. When I made my starter I did it in a 1000ML flask with 4oz of DME and it really went agressive crazy; had a couple of over flows. I did this 24 hours prior to brewing and the starter had showed little to no activity on brew night. I did my normal brewing and cooled the wort before adding to the carboy and pitching my starter into it. I noticed activity quickly, but it hasn't seemed as agressive as I would have thought a beer that should finish with gravity of 1.019-1.031. I do see activity in the airlock, but like I said doesn't seem to be what I would expect so I wonder if there is a possibility if something went a miss or there are other steps I should take here. Any and all advice is more than welcome.

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Old 12-20-2012, 01:55 PM   #834
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Just curious as to fermenting temepratures.. I did a Stout recently and I was told 15c...it worked fine since its December in Canada and my brew station is in an unheated room in the basement at (16c). I just did two new brews, an Irish Cream Red and a Honey Lager...both are sitting there quietly doing nothing...i'm wondering if 16c isn't ideal for those?

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Old 12-20-2012, 03:48 PM   #835
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Depends on the yeast variety...what strains are you using?

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For they garner the succulent berries of the hop and mass and sift and bruise and brew them and they mix therewith sour juices and bring the must to the sacred fire and cease not night or day from their toil, those cunning brothers, lords of the vat. -James Joyce

On deck: Orange Cranberry Wit, Dusseldorf Altbier
Primary: Belgian Partigyle Tripel/Saison, 1/1
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Bottles: Northern Brown Ale, 1/10; English IPA, 12/31; Cider, 12/9; White House Honey Ale AG, 12/9;
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:28 PM   #836
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Both came with a Generic Coopers packet...nothing else was written on it.

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Old 12-20-2012, 08:52 PM   #837
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My calculator says that 16C is something like 61F, which is a little low for some types of yeast. I've no idea what the appropriate temp range is for the cooper's stuff, but if you're not getting much activity I'd say temp could theoretically be a reason. You could try to warm it up a few degrees, but I wouldn't go much above 67F or 68F (something like 19-20C). Or, you could pitch a yeast that's comfortable working at that temp--while 16C is below the "optimal" temp range for most ale yeasts, I regularly ferment that low with several strains and don't have any problems. I especially recommend White Labs WLP007 at that temp, I always ferment with that at 60-62F with no problems whatsoever. For the lager, you'll need a lager strain, which you'll actually want to ferment significantly lower than the temp it's currently at--read the wiki entry on lagering, but you'll probably need to be able to get your fermenter down to around 45F to 50F, depending on the beer and the yeast strain.

Hope that's helpful.

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For they garner the succulent berries of the hop and mass and sift and bruise and brew them and they mix therewith sour juices and bring the must to the sacred fire and cease not night or day from their toil, those cunning brothers, lords of the vat. -James Joyce

On deck: Orange Cranberry Wit, Dusseldorf Altbier
Primary: Belgian Partigyle Tripel/Saison, 1/1
Secondary: none
Bottles: Northern Brown Ale, 1/10; English IPA, 12/31; Cider, 12/9; White House Honey Ale AG, 12/9;
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:30 PM   #838
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Ok, thx, i've taken both pails out of my cold room and placed them in a room at a constant 68f or 20c...we'll see what that does.

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Old 12-21-2012, 03:45 AM   #839
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Happy to say that within 4 hours of moving the pails, both have air lock activity. Yay!

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Fermenting - 10g Galaxy Pale Ale
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On Deck - Captain Hooked on bitters ESB
On Tap - Revvy's Leffe Blonde Clone, Founders Porter Clone

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Old 12-21-2012, 03:12 PM   #840
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Excellent, glad to hear it!

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For they garner the succulent berries of the hop and mass and sift and bruise and brew them and they mix therewith sour juices and bring the must to the sacred fire and cease not night or day from their toil, those cunning brothers, lords of the vat. -James Joyce

On deck: Orange Cranberry Wit, Dusseldorf Altbier
Primary: Belgian Partigyle Tripel/Saison, 1/1
Secondary: none
Bottles: Northern Brown Ale, 1/10; English IPA, 12/31; Cider, 12/9; White House Honey Ale AG, 12/9;
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