Newest Threads

**unionrdr** · 11-27-2012, 11:47 AM

And don't be too eager to rack to secondary just to free up the primary. The beer should be at FG before racking anyway. Otherwise it could stall out for lack of patience on your part.

DuffTheTaxidermist · 11-28-2012, 02:28 AM

well, im not too worried, i mean, id like to drink my beer, but i understand it takes time. and time, ill give it.

so my friend has some gear hes going to give me, actually alot of stuff, and all he asked in return was a local brewery that doesnt distribute, a 6 pk from them... i offered erik the red, i know they distribute, but hes never had it... so in return for that, im getting a 4 gal kettle, a second bucket, a capper, some bottles, caps, things i dont have and a couple things i have. its always nice to have double. and i can see this becoming a huge hobby, so many batches at once will be nice.

new question. the air lock stopped rocking and rolling between yesterday and today. i pitched on sunday at 2 am...(saturday night really) and it was going strong through monday. so i moved the bucket to my living room where there's carpet (im concerned the bucket got too cold and might have killed off the yeast)... should i be concerned that the air lock is no longer bubbling?

Toadsticker · 11-28-2012, 02:37 AM

No. The fact the airlock isn't bubbling, only means it isn't bubbling. The only true measure of fermentation is by hydrometer reading.

DuffTheTaxidermist · 11-28-2012, 03:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toadsticker

No. The fact the airlock isn't bubbling, only means it isn't bubbling. The only true measure of fermentation is by hydrometer reading.

touche! it infact, does mean that lol... i digress.

now, should i be concerned and/or try to figure things out? and if so, how might i go about doing so...

Toadsticker · 11-28-2012, 03:21 AM

First question would be, what yeast strain are you using? Different strains like different temps.

freeflydude · 11-28-2012, 05:00 AM

Patience is the hardest part of brewing. Best advice I can give is to let it do what it does. Keep it between low 60's to low 70's and in primary for about 3 weeks then bottle. If you are fermenting in your bottling bucket you'll need to transfer to secondary first but secondary isn't necessary. I would recommend fermenting in a 6 gallon Carboy for 3-4 weeks then straight to bottle. I only secondary if I'm going to do some specialty additions like a dry hop. Whatever you do don't rush it. There's nothing more you can do after its in the fermenter other than keeping the environment at an appropriate temp range. Plastic is not an oxygen barrier so if you do continue primary in a plastic bucket you might get some oxygenation of the brew but would still be drinkable. There's lots to learn but this forum is a good place to start. There are also some good books out there so keep learning and you'll have it down before you know it.

**unionrdr** · 11-28-2012, 04:55 PM

Plastic buckets aren't very o2 permiable at all. Just moreso than glass with it's crytaline structure. Some have let them sit for months with no ill effects. It is possible,but at a very miniscule rate on our scale of brewing. I put it in the same category as autolysis. Dead & gone...

DuffTheTaxidermist · 11-28-2012, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toadsticker

First question would be, what yeast strain are you using? Different strains like different temps.

the yeast is Fermentis S-04

**beergolf** · 11-28-2012, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DuffTheTaxidermist

the yeast is Fermentis S-04

That yeast is fine down to 59 degrees so your house at 62 is great. Let the yeast do its job and enjoy some good beer when it is done.

DuffTheTaxidermist · 11-29-2012, 01:49 AM

good to know, ill do a search for a chart on yeast temps and characteristics.

new question lol... my air lock looked to have lost water. the level was less than at the fill line today by about 3/8"... i opened it and filled back to the line... why did it lose water?