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-   -   False bottom in a mash tun (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/false-bottom-mash-tun-140315/)

dmbnpj 10-06-2009 11:24 PM

False bottom in a mash tun
 
My question is about using a dip tube in a mash tun with a false bottom. How is this done in the most convenient way possible? My HLT and boil keggle both have dip tubes but they are made of copper and they are fixed, meaning I have them soldered in place. If you use a false bottom in a mash tun, I assume you have to take it out after every batch in order to clean it as well as clean the mash tun? So, my thinking is some sort of quick disconnect is needed?

Currently, I am using a SS braid in my mash tun, which after 3 batches has already been crushed and created a stuck sparge twice. This is why I am leaning toward the false bottom option.

Dos_Locos_Brewery 10-07-2009 07:42 PM

My mash tun has a ss tube that is connected to a valve at the kettle wall, and bends 90 degrees to go down through a hole in the false bottom. A ss washer around the pick-up tube covers the hole so the mash grains don't get sucked down through the hole in the false bottom. The ss tube disconnects with a Swagelok fitting.

TexLaw 10-07-2009 07:53 PM

Have you looked into using a Bazooka tube or making a manfold? Those don't crush so easily, and they often are a lot easier to remove for cleaning.


TL

android 10-07-2009 07:56 PM

+1 to a manifold. you don't need much copper at all to make one and soldering is not necessary, i know some do it, but I didn't and haven't had any problems whatsoever. i just crimped all the fittings except where the manifold meets the drain valve, that just slips in and slips out when i go to clean it out.

dmbnpj 10-08-2009 12:28 AM

picture or link please to one of these on a keg mash tun

thanks

ChuckieG 05-09-2010 02:24 PM

Making a copper manifold
 
For what its worth, I came up with a way to cut slots that I haven't read anywhere. It works great!

With the copper pipes held in a vice, I cut the slots with a jigsaw with a 21 tooth metal cutting blade. Takes about 7 seconds per slot cut. Hold even pressure, and be patient at first, after about 4 seconds you break through and start racing through the copper.

I made a fairly small, square manifold that sits on the bottom of a converted keg, with a copper elbow down to it from the drain valve. Being square and flat, it sits propped up on its corners in the bowl at the bottom.

Because it is small, I was able to hold some of the parts in a vice by the ends, which avoids crushing, but I also put some in sideways and just tightened the vice gently. After cutting, I turned it and re-tightened the vice to re-round out any crush.

I soldered it together except where it goes into the drain valve. rinsing it out just isn't hard. I don't ever want to deal with it coming apart at the bottom of a hot mash.

whoneedsabeer 05-09-2010 03:23 PM

I'm having the same thoughts as the OP, and found this.
http://www.homebrewstuff.com/servlet/the-199/12%22-perforated-stainless-steel/Detail

I'm thinking of using a 3/8 barb on the internal bulk head fitting, and simply attaching a short piece of silicone tubing with hose clamps.

The FB probably won't come out completely given the length of the hardware on my bulkhead's internal fittings, but it should raise up enough for grains and husks to rinse out of when cleaning.

ChuckieG 05-10-2010 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whoneedsabeer (Post 2050235)
I'm having the same thoughts as the OP, and found this.
http://www.homebrewstuff.com/servlet/the-199/12%22-perforated-stainless-steel/Detail

I'm thinking of using a 3/8 barb on the internal bulk head fitting, and simply attaching a short piece of silicone tubing with hose clamps.

The FB probably won't come out completely given the length of the hardware on my bulkhead's internal fittings, but it should raise up enough for grains and husks to rinse out of when cleaning.

I recommend you do not try silicone hose in the mash tun. I tried using silcone hose to connect a s.s. braid before. It failed. Once it is heated to 150F mash it loses all rigidity and crushes. I had to force it off the barb and drain the mash with no manifold.

EvilGnome6 05-10-2010 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckieG (Post 2051288)
I recommend you do not try silicone hose in the mash tun. I tried using silcone hose to connect a s.s. braid before. It failed. Once it is heated to 150F mash it loses all rigidity and crushes. I had to force it off the barb and drain the mash with no manifold.

I use a short length of thick walled silicone tubing in my mash tun. It runs it between the barb on the false bottom and the barb on the ball valve without any clamps. I just cut it long enough so it's a tight fit.

It has never gotten crushed or gotten knocked loose when stirring the mash. It works perfectly and makes it a breeze to pop out the false bottom for cleaning.

Bach7210 05-10-2010 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EvilGnome6 (Post 2051327)
I use a short length of thick walled silicone tubing in my mash tun. It runs it between the barb on the false bottom and the barb on the ball valve without any clamps. I just cut it long enough so it's a tight fit.

It has never gotten crushed or gotten knocked loose when stirring the mash. It works perfectly and makes it a breeze to pop out the false bottom for cleaning.

+1 to thick walled silicone tubing

I use the exact same thing and I've never had a problem. When I get home, I'll take a picture and upload it so you can see exactly what it is.


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