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Old 06-28-2011, 04:44 PM   #21
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They could leak a little,yes, but it is seldom. And, that chance is well worth never having to siphon again.
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BAH! That's like saying that you threw away your car keys so you'd never have to drive to the store again.

Siphoning your beer is as much trouble as putting your socks on. A leaky fermentor is a tremendous problem... unless you enjoy ant infestations and lost beer.

There is no advantage (the yeast cake should just instantly clog the cheap, plastic spigot), and too many disadvantages to bother counting.
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:50 PM   #22
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I second the responses about WHY youre getting the bombs. If someone told you to bottle when the bubbles stop, no wonder youre seeing them pop. Get the hydrometer/refractometer and do it the right way. Also, if you want to keep ypur beer sweeter and stop fermentation, get you some wine conditioner and kill off the yeastie boys right before you bottle.

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Old 06-28-2011, 05:21 PM   #23
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My fermenter has a spigot, but i only use it for drawing off samples to test with the hydrometer, which I rarely do anymore (during fermentation). Since buying an autosiphon, i have never used the spigot for racking over. I let it sit in the fermenter a good 2 weeks, then rack to secondary and steal a small sample of that to test. Then at least 2 more weeks in secondary, and it's surely at FG.

Rack to the Ale Pail, steal a small sample for the hydrometer, record. Prime, bottle.

The fermenter has a little doodad on the inside of the spigot that's supposed to be a sediment reducer, when bottling (kit said to do everything in the single container, and use priming drops). It works well, but the autosiphon works better. Since I bought carboys for secondaries, and an autosiphon, and an ale pail and prime with dextrose not drops, it's rather pointless now. The trub in my pumpkin ale was well over the spigot anyways.

Anyways, your bottle bombs are one of two things: the beer wasn't done fermenting when you primed and bottled it, or you over primed. Fix the first potential problem with regular hydrometer readings and patience. Fix the second issue with a digital scale to measure out the exact amount of dextrose to prime with. I even marked my Ale Pail with recommended priming amounts, right on the gallon marks. 1oz per gallon is easy to remember, but I also added the conversions to cups. It eliminates the guesswork, and it's kinda like a study sheet for a relative noob like me to memorize the amounts (for later in life when I'll undoubtedly not have to refer to said "study guides"). I marked my fermenter in much the same way, but because it's metric and I go by gallons. I also made a small mark next to the thermostrip, as a 'do not pitch over this temperature' mark. Again, not necessary, just added steps for quality control.

Try little things like that over time, to improve future batches, and don't let a simple beginner's mistake discourage you.

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Old 06-28-2011, 05:41 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Malintent View Post
-1

BAH! That's like saying that you threw away your car keys so you'd never have to drive to the store again.

Siphoning your beer is as much trouble as putting your socks on. A leaky fermentor is a tremendous problem... unless you enjoy ant infestations and lost beer.

There is no advantage (the yeast cake should just instantly clog the cheap, plastic spigot), and too many disadvantages to bother counting.
Your anaolgy makes no sense. That would be more like saying I stopped brewing beer because I didn't like to siphon. I made my own buckets, and placed the spigots a little higher on the bucket. I whirlpool, so there isn't much trub going in. I don't get yeast cake in the spigot. When I started brewing 21 years ago, the autosiphon was not available (at least not that I was aware of). I didn't like siphoning, so I put spigots on my buckets and never looked back. When I use buckets (now mostly 2 gals for small batches) I set it on a cookie sheet. I can see if there are drips and wipe it up. On the very few occasions I've had drips, it was probably only an ounce of beer lost.
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:55 PM   #25
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Your anaolgy makes no sense. That would be more like saying I stopped brewing beer because I didn't like to siphon. I made my own buckets, and placed the spigots a little higher on the bucket. I whirlpool, so there isn't much trub going in. I don't get yeast cake in the spigot. When I started brewing 21 years ago, the autosiphon was not available (at least not that I was aware of). I didn't like siphoning, so I put spigots on my buckets and never looked back. When I use buckets (now mostly 2 gals for small batches) I set it on a cookie sheet. I can see if there are drips and wipe it up. On the very few occasions I've had drips, it was probably only an ounce of beer lost.
I have used a primary for the first 7 days of wine, and turned the spigot up, but I don't think I would do it long term. I still siphoned out of that (too many beers already in primaries and secondaries) I could see it if you were making your own spigot holes, but the OP has a standard bottling bucket. I would be concerned with the height of the trub if he doesn't whirlpool from the pot. The auto siphon makes things so easy why take any of these risks? If this is just a kit and has one primary and one bottling bucket, better to keep the bottling bucket for what it is intended and get more primaries for fermenting. That being said, I would bet each one of us using different methods still come out with the same thing, BEER!
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:30 PM   #26
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Just wondering if its possible to have a weak bottle, maybe slightly damaged or any other reasons why you could have a bottle bomb. I just had one go off, but their is no way that it was not finished or to much sugar used. I made a cider and been sampling them and IMO could use more carbonation. My other beers have more carbonation then the cider atm. Its been about 2 months since I primed the cider.

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Old 06-29-2011, 07:38 AM   #27
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Just wondering if its possible to have a weak bottle, maybe slightly damaged or any other reasons why you could have a bottle bomb. I just had one go off, but their is no way that it was not finished or to much sugar used. I made a cider and been sampling them and IMO could use more carbonation. My other beers have more carbonation then the cider atm. Its been about 2 months since I primed the cider.
If it's the only bottle that's gone off, it may have been a weak one. Perhaps exposed to a lot of heat or had a chip in it.

From my understanding though, glass bottles don't really deteriorate much. Probably just an unlucky guy.

Edit: How many bottles have you sampled? If it's the only one, maybe try opening another and see if you get more carb in that one then the other as that would be a priming issue.
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:26 PM   #28
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If it's the only bottle that's gone off, it may have been a weak one. Perhaps exposed to a lot of heat or had a chip in it.

From my understanding though, glass bottles don't really deteriorate much. Probably just an unlucky guy.

Edit: How many bottles have you sampled? If it's the only one, maybe try opening another and see if you get more carb in that one then the other as that would be a priming issue.
I have had around 18 bottles already. And still they are not as carbonated as my other beers.....Maybe more sampling is needed
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:57 PM   #29
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i think i didn't wait long enough before i bottled it. i just waited till there were no more bubbles in my airlock (as per the suggestion of my LHBS). it was a little hasty...i used a 5oz bag of dextrose, so i dont think that was the problem
I bet your LHBS didn't tell you to use a blowoff tube either. Just wait until he gets customers with MASSIVE fermenting messes when thoselids start getting blown off.
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Old 06-29-2011, 08:06 PM   #30
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they did suggest i get one, but i decided to ignore them in the interest of starting simple...

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