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Old 06-28-2011, 02:15 AM   #11
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A sanitized turkey baster will do, but a thief is a little easier IMHO since you can draw your sample and test your sample with the same device. . If the tube your hydrometer came in is meant for samples just don't fill it quite so full, otherwise use a hydrometer jar or thief.

If you have space, it's easiest to put them in a plastic bin and the into the fridge to cold crash. This also allows you a little protection while transporting them.

Just so you know, you're not alone in this... In my early brewing career, i decided to make strawberry soda. I followed the directions to a tee and then bottled it in corona bottles. I had them conditioning in a cabinet in the kitchen. One morning I heard a boom in the kitchen and my wife yells "oh sh!t". Then another boom!, and another, etc. I quickly grabbed a trash can to put them in. By the time I got home from work that night, every one of my bottles had the bottoms blown out.

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Old 06-28-2011, 03:05 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by jaycount View Post
Pint glass is probably too short. Just buy a thief or use a turkey baster and a graduated cylinder. Alot of things can cause bottle bombs: bottling too soon (incomplete fermentation), using too much priming sugar, incomplete mixture of priming sugar.

Give us some details about how you determined it was time to bottle and how you primed and bottled.
i think i didn't wait long enough before i bottled it. i just waited till there were no more bubbles in my airlock (as per the suggestion of my LHBS). it was a little hasty...i used a 5oz bag of dextrose, so i dont think that was the problem
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:20 AM   #13
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i think i didn't wait long enough before i bottled it. i just waited till there were no more bubbles in my airlock (as per the suggestion of my LHBS). it was a little hasty...i used a 5oz bag of dextrose, so i dont think that was the problem
That was the same thing my LHBS told me. Thankfully I found this forum and decided to let my beer sit in the secondary for a while more (until I got no change on the hydrometer). I really don't understand why they do this to new brewers... they must know that if bottles start exploding we'll never be allowed to brew again.

Best of luck with the cold crashing!
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:24 AM   #14
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Yep just wait longer. You know the drill now.

Learning is all part of the process!

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Old 06-28-2011, 12:29 PM   #15
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That was the same thing my LHBS told me. Thankfully I found this forum and decided to let my beer sit in the secondary for a while more (until I got no change on the hydrometer). I really don't understand why they do this to new brewers... they must know that if bottles start exploding we'll never be allowed to brew again.

Best of luck with the cold crashing!
my LHBS told me the same, directions even said it too. 'when bubbling is done, fermenting is done, start bottling!'. Havent had any bottle bombs *yet* since this is my first batch but i figure next time im going to leave it alone for a lot longer next time.
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Old 06-28-2011, 02:58 PM   #16
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I think all those beer kits tell you to bottle when you have no airlock activity.... Bad advice. An airlock can never replace a hydrometer or refractometer as an instrument to gauge fermentation by. An airlock is simply that, a barrier between your beer and the bugs in the air.

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Old 06-28-2011, 03:08 PM   #17
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Just use the hydrometer tube if you have it. It is a small amount compared to a pint glass.
When you fill the hydrometer tube, if it has two removable caps, keep your finger on the bottom one. I forgot once, and the cap came off, spilling the beer.
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:09 PM   #18
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all of this leads me to another question, should my fermenter have a spigot on it to make it easier to take samples? i got two buckets when i bought all of my equipment and they said the one with the spigot is for bottling, the other without it is the fermenter, its looking now like it would just be easier to have two buckets with spigots on them. what does everyone here think? does anyone else use a fermenter w/ spigot?

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Old 06-28-2011, 03:23 PM   #19
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all of this leads me to another question, should my fermenter have a spigot on it to make it easier to take samples? i got two buckets when i bought all of my equipment and they said the one with the spigot is for bottling, the other without it is the fermenter, its looking now like it would just be easier to have two buckets with spigots on them. what does everyone here think? does anyone else use a fermenter w/ spigot?
Step away from the bottling bucket!

You shouldn't use your bottling bucket for fermenting. The spout could leak over time, it is not as sanitary (gives the bugs a place to hang out), and soon you will be getting a few more primary fermetors. How are you going to feel when you beer in one of the primaries is done and you can't bottle it because you have beer fermenting in your bottling bucket?
I use a turkey baster, and the tube my hydrometer came in. The other thing I do now is let it sit in primary for 3-5 weeks. That way I know it has finished, unless it is a crazy big beer. Once you get a pipeline it will be easier to do this.
You didn't hear it from me, but... You can use stellar sanitation and take a hydrometer reading right in the primary. *Gasp* It has been known to happen on occasion and produced no ill effects.
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:35 PM   #20
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Step away from the bottling bucket!

You shouldn't use your bottling bucket for fermenting. The spout could leak over time, it is not as sanitary (gives the bugs a place to hang out)...
Hogwash! All of my fermenting buckets have always had spigots. They could leak a little,yes, but it is seldom. And, that chance is well worth never having to siphon again. Since I always remove the spigots for cleaning, I test the bucket for leaks with water and sanitizer before using it. I always keep a spray bottle of Starsan handy, and just give the spout a spray before using it to transfer my beer. I've NEVER had an infected batch. My conicals also have drain ports, and I haven't had any issues with bugs getting in there either.
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