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Old 06-12-2011, 05:34 PM   #881
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What do you do about the break material? I was thinking maybe let it sit and siphoning off the top instead of draining it...
you can do that, but you loose volume. using a whirlfloc tablet or irish moss will leave your beer clean when its done fermenting, but you'll have a bit of trub in the bottom of the carboy. This is just a volume loss I adjust for. Me personally, I just throw it all in my fermenter. Hops and all.
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Old 06-12-2011, 05:57 PM   #882
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I just did this for the first time today... I really like the concept, but I think its pretty limited for what I like to brew. I did 15 lbs of grain, which easily fit along with 6 gallons of water in my kettle. However it took all of the strength in my right arm to hold up the grain bag while it drained, and get a strainer under it. My set up is up high so the top of my kettle is chest height. I wouldn't recommend this for beer above 1.060 or so. Plus the protein break material was pretty funky to deal with, there was about 3 inches of it in the bottom of my kettle after I was done. Is this still an issue with a mash tun?

I did this method with 16lbs of grain. I quickly realized that I needed to change something when I tried lifting the grain bag. So I got a large bowl and put the lid to my kettle on top of it upside down. It can hold a few quarts of liquid due to it's shape. I pulled out the grain bag with both hands and set it on the inverted lid. Then I put the canning rack into my kettle which is tall enough for me to set the grain bag on while I pour sparge water over the grains. Only a couple drops of wort on the counter.

I'd strongly recommend setting something up next to the kettle that will hold the soaked grain bag while you put in a strainer. You could also use a wide colander that fits on top of a large bowl for this as well. It's a lot easier to move that grain bag when you use both hands and you have something to set it on. Lifting it up with one hand while trying to put something under it is just near impossible.
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:45 PM   #883
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The bowl idea is a really good plan... id been trying to figure out what to use, my kettle is 18" across. I should be able to find a large stainless steel bowl and just drill holes in it to drain. Alas I forgot to add irish moss as I do about 30% or the time. I wonder if there's anyhope for my beer to be somewhat clear. Im using wlp007 which drops like a rock but I don't know if that's going to contribute to the protein dropping too

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Old 06-12-2011, 09:11 PM   #884
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You can always cold crash before bottling/kegging. If you let it sit long enough, it should be pretty clear.

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Old 06-12-2011, 09:14 PM   #885
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whatever you do don't overlook the supplies like I did... BIG BIG mess! lol

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Old 06-12-2011, 10:12 PM   #886
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You can always cold crash before bottling/kegging. If you let it sit long enough, it should be pretty clear.
Ok, right of course. Thanks for the reminder. Do you think there will still be plenty of yeast left in suspension to bottle condition, or should I repitch a little?
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Old 06-12-2011, 10:18 PM   #887
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Unless you let it sit for a few months before bottling, there should be plenty of yeast for carbonation.

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Old 06-13-2011, 10:57 AM   #888
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The amount of general crap in the fermentor when brewing "big" beers with this method is really off-putting. Even when I have an all-grain recipe, if I'm using this recipe I like to substitute some malt extract for the actual grain. We learned this lesson on a barleywine... where every bottle is precious.

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Old 06-13-2011, 10:16 PM   #889
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I've been looking at trying this method as an introduction to all grain. My idea is to heat up my strike water to about 180 and then dump that into my plastic bucket, let it fall to my calculated temperature and then mash it. I have an 8 gallon kettle that I can use to heat up my sparge water in and rinse my grains. My question is, how do I go about calculating the maximum amount of grain I can use with a 6 gallon bucket assuming I'm using 1.25 qt/lb of strike water? Thanks!

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Old 06-13-2011, 10:26 PM   #890
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I've been looking at trying this method as an introduction to all grain. My idea is to heat up my strike water to about 180 and then dump that into my plastic bucket, let it fall to my calculated temperature and then mash it. I have an 8 gallon kettle that I can use to heat up my sparge water in and rinse my grains. My question is, how do I go about calculating the maximum amount of grain I can use with a 6 gallon bucket assuming I'm using 1.25 qt/lb of strike water? Thanks!
http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml

This website is posted about every 10 pages on this forum. You guys are going to need to start paying DB to keep this thread up! That or condense the info to the first post.
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