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Old 12-18-2008, 10:52 PM   #121
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i used to tap off with tapwater, and it's probably fine (in my area) during the winter. but the water i used during the summer (mashing, boiling, topping off, whatever) destroyed a number of my beers. it not only depends on the water, it REALLY depends on the water

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Old 12-18-2008, 11:52 PM   #122
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i used to tap off with tapwater, and it's probably fine (in my area) during the winter. but the water i used during the summer (mashing, boiling, topping off, whatever) destroyed a number of my beers. it not only depends on the water, it REALLY depends on the water
That is way I i kinda said said the chemistry matters most <-me.

Don't get me wrong I agree with you. I have been able to smell and taste when the watter people add too much chlorine. Now I'm brewing I hope my senses don't fail me.

I live in the desert and work in the heat. In the heat of summer I can drink three gallons a day. I know my watter very personally.
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Old 12-19-2008, 01:38 AM   #123
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My 172 strike was a little too cold, as I got just about 161 sparge in my latest batch.

Afraid of tannins, I was too conservative with the strike temps. Next time I do 175-180F with my mere 7 qt sparge.

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the reason for the 170 degree (or less) sparge (175 degree water drops down when you add the grains) is to halt the enzymes and to extract the most sugars possible out of the grains.
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Old 12-19-2008, 02:09 AM   #124
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i go with 190 sometimes when batch sparging without mash out. if you're mashing at 148°F, it'll take quite a bit to get your temp up.

but don't worry too much, in the 160s is fine. i change methods and equipment all the time. combine that with varying ambient temperatures and i often don't reach my 168°F mash-out or my 170°F sparge. i still get great conversion and it still makes for some damn fine beer.

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Old 12-19-2008, 02:38 AM   #125
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I got to say do not be afraid of tannins form mash-out. I've been decocting a Belgain Golden Strong today (because I'm snowed out of work by 3 inches of snow) I've been boiling parts of my mash all freaking day. My starting gravity sample teased very good. It had ZERO tannins in it. It tastes really good.

Be worried of the pH of the mash getting too high.

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Old 12-19-2008, 12:30 PM   #126
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Be worried of the pH of the mash getting too high.
I've been wondering about this...this is brought up a lot but I don't ever see checking and adjusting pH included in AG procedures.

Do most AG brewers just assume the pH will take care of itself?

Is adjusting pH a trouble-shooting step if your efficiency is low or your OG is low?

Does anyone know if water softeners will affect pH (I have one)?
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Old 12-19-2008, 02:44 PM   #127
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I figure most don't worry about their watter until they have a problem. I thought I could pull 10 gallons from 15 pound of grain but ended up with to much tannin flavor in the last runnings. I'm still learning.
I don't think you want to use watter from a watter softener because of the salt.

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Old 12-20-2008, 06:18 PM   #128
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Can this process be done using a 5 gal pot and a 3 gallon pot?

Mash in 5 gal with 3.5 gal of strike water. The yield should be 2.5 gal?

Sparge in 3 gal pot with 2.5 gal of water. There's only .5 gal head room here. Will it overflow? I think so because it absorbed at least 1 gal of water from mash.

Mix worts arbitrarily using any means and boil separately.

I would lose about 10% to evaporation.

Combine in 5 gal fermenting vessel and pitch. Not sure if I should top off now or not? Would it depend on SG reading?

I searched but could find any topic on this but someone had to have tried this before

Thanks.

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Old 12-20-2008, 08:01 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ballegre View Post
Can this process be done using a 5 gal pot and a 3 gallon pot?

Mash in 5 gal with 3.5 gal of strike water. The yield should be 2.5 gal?

Sparge in 3 gal pot with 2.5 gal of water. There's only .5 gal head room here. Will it overflow? I think so because it absorbed at least 1 gal of water from mash.

Mix worts arbitrarily using any means and boil separately.

I would lose about 10% to evaporation.

Combine in 5 gal fermenting vessel and pitch. Not sure if I should top off now or not? Would it depend on SG reading?

I searched but could find any topic on this but someone had to have tried this before

Thanks.
sure, you may have to use less water for your sparge and in doing so you will suffer efficiency. if you used 2 gallons of water in your sparge i would wager your efficiency would be about 55-60%, depending on your method. remember to stir the sparge and let it sit for 10 minutes before draining the bag.

i personally would invest in a 7.5+ gallon kettle so you can get better efficiency and won't have to boil in two pots

i also would recommend trying this as a partial mash with your current system. basically do what i stated above and use less grains, then use a couple pounds of extract. this always works great for my dunkelweizen recipe.
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:44 AM   #130
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So I just bottled my first AG batch yesterday. I used deathbrewer's method of stovetop tea bag, and wow would it have been a lot easier if I had a larger pot!

Anyway, I bottled it yesterday and drank the last 8 oz from the priming bucket. I don't think it tasted too great. This was after being in the primary for two weeks. So is it common/uncommon for beers to taste a lot different after being bottle conditioned? I hope so because I really don't want 48 bottles of beer to taste like the bit I tried yesterday...

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