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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > Easy Partial Mash Brewing (with pics)
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Old 04-21-2010, 09:41 PM   #901
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Well, if it sat at 160 for too long, it's possible you got some heavy dextrins in there, but I think you'll be fine. You won't get any real tannins at that temperature, that's more of a concern with the sparge reaching too high (over 168°F generally, depending on pH.) Nah, it'll be fine...let me know!

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Old 04-21-2010, 10:17 PM   #902
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Hey DB what do you think now that I provided a bit more info about brew day in my last few above posts, think my brew should be ok w/o too many tannins?
Your beer won't be good. You can send it to me and I'll dispose of it properly ;-)
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Old 04-27-2010, 05:23 PM   #903
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Just curious how coarse or fine is the mesh on your grain/hop bag?

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Old 04-27-2010, 06:07 PM   #904
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It varies and I've used many different bags. For how they will work: The finer bags will let less grain through, but they will flow slower and allow less water through, which could hurt efficiency and make the sparge difficult. The more coarse bags will work much easier, but allow more grain and husk particles through to the boil.

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Old 04-27-2010, 09:30 PM   #905
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It varies and I've used many different bags. For how they will work: The finer bags will let less grain through, but they will flow slower and allow less water through, which could hurt efficiency and make the sparge difficult. The more coarse bags will work much easier, but allow more grain and husk particles through to the boil.
Is there any detriment to having grain and husk particles in the boil? I'm using the paint strainer nylon bag from Lowe's and I would say it's not as fine as some of the nylon bags I have seen, but it's not nearly as course as a muslin bag either. I don't notice much grain getting through and I haven't noticed drainage problems, but I have also been dunking in the sparge water and not pouring any over it if that makes any difference.
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Old 04-27-2010, 09:51 PM   #906
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Nah...even when I have a little grain, the beer turns out fine. If you had too much, you could get tannins from boiling the grain, I suppose, if it was a significant amount. You could also get protein haze.

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Old 05-01-2010, 08:08 PM   #907
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Howdy All,

This thread is awesome! Thanks Deathbrewer! I tried this method today for the first time after several extract + steeping grains batches. Things got a little hairy so I want to ask advice on what I should do next. Here's what I did:

My modification of "Centennial Blonde" from http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f66/cent...10-gall-42841/

4.5lbs Kalages 2-row pale
0.5lbs Vienna
0.5lbs Cara-pils
0.5lbs Caramel 10L
Strike 9qts 179F, went down to 155F and stayed.
Purple iodophor at first, very little at 30min, none at 45min. Moved to sparge.
Sparge 8qts 175F, went down to 170F after 12min. (Temp too low?)
Combined volumes + 0.5quart to rinse.
Pre-boil SG = 1.024 (48% Efficiency?)
60min 0.25oz Centennial (9.1%aa) plugs
45min 0.25oz Centennial (9.1%aa) plugs
30min 0.25oz Cascade (7.8%aa) pellets
15min 0.25oz Cascade (7.8%aa) pellets, plus 1tsp Irish Moss, plus 1.5lbs Munton's Ex-Pale DME
Cool, top up to 5.5gal.
Wyeast 1272 American Ale II
OG = 1.030

So I'm thinking about taking the left-over 1.5lb of DME, boil in 0.5gal for 15min, cool, throw it into fermenter. What do you think?
I took both gravity readings from samples that I had let come to room temp. I am new to this, so maybe I made some calculation errors. Does 48% efficiency look right to you?

Thanks for any insights you may be able to provide,
Sardo

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Old 05-03-2010, 02:45 PM   #908
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I think I figured it out. I had only read through the first 70 pages of the thread when I posted. A couple of pages after that I spotted the link to the recipator, which will help in the future when adapting recipies, and crucial information about doughing in. I poured all of my grain into the bag in the strike water and then tried to stir it well before covering. Next time I'll add the grain a little bit at a time and stir. Hopefully I'll get better efficiency that way. I went ahead and added the leftover DME as I suggested I might. That probably would have done the trick.
Unfortunately, a heat wave hit the afternoon after brewing, and the fermenter's been in the mid-80s for a couple of days now. Can't imagine that good things will come of this....

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Old 05-03-2010, 06:03 PM   #909
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Adding all the grain at once will definitely create some doughballs and lower efficiency.

Look into cooling your fermentation. This is one of the most important methods for making good beer. I keep almost all my beers in the low 60s.

A water bath works great. Just use one of those tubs for kegs:



Fill it with water with the carboy or bucket inside. Keep a floating thermometer in the water, check it a couple of times a day and add ice packs as necessary. Your fermentation temperature is generally a few degrees higher than the water.

If you're concerned about the standing water (mosquitoes, mold, etc.), you can add some potassium metabisulfite to the water and nothing will live in there.

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Old 05-03-2010, 06:09 PM   #910
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A water bath works great. Just use one of those tubs for kegs:

Home Depot has 18 gallon blue tubs just like that for ~$5.99. Super-duper cheap.
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