Hi all ..I have a few comments...i have been reading the Aussi forms.and they have been BIAB for years...which means "brew in a bag" A page back you talk about having to much sparge water and releasing to much tannins ect...now they use full volume mash and dont have any mention of this..has any one been reading the BIAB stuff..they do AG brewing with this technique..Jeff
Deathbrewer actually has an All Grain forum of BIAB. This is BIAB, just you are mashing less and using extract to boost it, but for all purposes, this is BIAB. Deathbrewers version of the AG method has you sparging with the same method he has here, dunking it in the sparge water. I have been doing it that was and I get 71-3% efficiency, and I don't have a problem with tannins. Usually I just sparge with however much I need to get to a full boil amount, but you can do it with less.
Also, you can do BIAB without sparging in a seperate vessle if you can remove some of the wort and pour it back on top of the bag. You pretty much have the same control over the tannins as you do mashing in any other method.
Personally, I don't see the fuss people have about separating this mash technique from the traditional ones. I mean, what you have here IS a traditional mash, just with the bag as a false bottom that wraps around the whole kettle.
Oversparging is pretty difficult with a regular all-grain beer. It's basically when you rinse the grain with water that is too hot and/or use too much water. At that point, you are no longer extracting sugar, just running water over the grain husks, which extracts tannins (like tea.)
Because you are using only a small amount of water with this method, if you do a full boil and use all your water, it is POSSIBLE to extract tannins. That's the only concern.
well since i'm new seems like contradicting terms..but may be that i just need more reading..heres my flips... from one site below
"In layman’s terms, BIAB can be summarised as follows. For a standard beer. The brewer brings around 35 litres of water to mash temperature (62 to 70 degrees depending on the beer) in a large pot. The pot is then lined with an extrememley fine mesh bag into which the grain is poured. This temperature is maintained for 60 minutes. At this stage, the bag is drained and removed, and the water that now tastes sweet (hence called sweet liquor) is brought to the boil and held there for 60 minutes. At various stages during the boil period, hops may be added to affect bitterness, flavour and aroma. After the boil, the resulting liquid (now called wort) is chilled rapidly to the correct temperature for the pitching of the yeast. All other stages of the brewing process should be familiar to those who have done some kit brews.
and here it's said,, heres quote "If you use TOO MUCH sparge water, you can extract tannins from the grains. This method uses 2 gallons for mash and 2 gallons for sparge...you could probably go up to three and be fine."
can you see where i'm trying to see both ?? I know theres something just not clicking in my thoughts..and you will show me the light.. Jeff
This may have been covered, but I don't recall catching it in the 79 pages of replies.
Is there a reason you add the original wort from the mash to the sparged wort? Can you add the sparged to the original? I am thinking from my equipment standpoint it may make more sense to add the sparged to the mashed. Should this make a difference?
Is there a reason you add the original wort from the mash to the sparged wort? Can you add the sparged to the original? I am thinking from my equipment standpoint it may make more sense to add the sparged to the mashed. Should this make a difference?
I think I commented on that a few pages back, but it might be in the AG forum instead. I do what you mentioned. It makes sense for me to add the sparge to the mashed. It's just easier with the equipment I have, and in addition to that I get more control over pre boil volume. If you happened to sparge too much, you can always withold from adding the whole sparge amount. You wouldn't want to withold some of the mashed wort to comensate for volume because that is where all the sugars are. This happens a lot when I am brewing small volumes of beer. I still want to sparge with enough water to draw the sugars off, but I may not need much extra water with a thin mash.
What this forum (and DBs AG BIAB as well) are all about is doing it the way that makes most sense to the brewer. Often extract brewers think of mashing as a complex system that rules need to be followed stricktly, and there is no room for mistakes. I admit I was guilty of this too, but what this forum is all about is the basics, no matter what equipment or methods you use, the general rule is the same. Before I did this method, I thought mashing was something I didn't have the equipment or space to do it in, but what this is all about is what makes sense and is easiest for the brewer.
I think I commented on that a few pages back, but it might be in the AG forum instead. I do what you mentioned. It makes sense for me to add the sparge to the mashed. It's just easier with the equipment I have, and in addition to that I get more control over pre boil volume. If you happened to sparge too much, you can always withold from adding the whole sparge amount. You wouldn't want to withold some of the mashed wort to comensate for volume because that is where all the sugars are. This happens a lot when I am brewing small volumes of beer. I still want to sparge with enough water to draw the sugars off, but I may not need much extra water with a thin mash.
What this forum (and DBs AG BIAB as well) are all about is doing it the way that makes most sense to the brewer. Often extract brewers think of mashing as a complex system that rules need to be followed stricktly, and there is no room for mistakes. I admit I was guilty of this too, but what this forum is all about is the basics, no matter what equipment or methods you use, the general rule is the same. Before I did this method, I thought mashing was something I didn't have the equipment or space to do it in, but what this is all about is what makes sense and is easiest for the brewer.
Thanks for the reply. I kinda figured it didn't matter, but Deathbrewer is the man for posting this and I thought there might be some method to the madness. Sorry for making you repeat yourself.
There is a metric crap-ton of knowledge in this thread alone. Thanks to all of you and espeically DB!
This may have been covered, but I don't recall catching it in the 79 pages of replies.
Is there a reason you add the original wort from the mash to the sparged wort? Can you add the sparged to the original? I am thinking from my equipment standpoint it may make more sense to add the sparged to the mashed. Should this make a difference?
Ernpac
The reason is because the bigger pot is the sparge/boil container in this method. As agenthucky mentioned, there are many different ways to brew and no one system is the right one.
Why would it work better the other way with your setup?
The reason is because the bigger pot is the sparge/boil container in this method. As agenthucky mentioned, there are many different ways to brew and no one system is the right one.
Why would it work better the other way with your setup?
In my crazy way of thinking, I would rather do the brewing in my stainless 5 gallon because of the width to height ratio than in the larger pot which is skinny and tall and a little harder to measure things like temp and all that in. I use it only if I have to. I intend to get a better larger stainless pot at some point.
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