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Old 03-13-2009, 07:53 PM   #401
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DB, step 10 ... are you just pouring the wort into the carboys with funnel, or are you syphoning it?

does it matter?
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Old 03-13-2009, 10:02 PM   #402
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Pour it in through a funnel after it cools. It splashes alot, which is good at that stage...you want aeration so you can get oxygen in the wort for the yeasties to eat up while they go through their reproductive stage.
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:00 PM   #403
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I know it's been asked but I don't think it's been answered. Hey I'm a nube to the group though.

I have a wheat kit from Austins (the mini mash Belgian White) and it asks for 2.5 gal for mash and 3 qrts for the sparage water. The total grain bill is 2.75 lbs. I'm think'n more along your lines of 1 gal of mash water and 3 gal of sparage water. Would this make this a better (and true to form) PM?

I've had this kit for a week and really need to get it done so I can try your Dunkel recipe.
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Old 03-21-2009, 01:18 AM   #404
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1 gallon mash + 3 gallons sparge will work much better. You definitely want your ratio within the 1-2qt/lb during the mash.
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Old 03-21-2009, 04:24 AM   #405
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Thanks for the help!

Next up Death Dunkel
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Old 03-21-2009, 04:44 AM   #406
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DunkelWEIZEN sorry, I'm a bit of a snob

This is a Dunkel. I have yet to make one, tho. Might just be the next lager on my list.
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Old 03-23-2009, 05:49 PM   #407
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Back reviewing the guide for my next beer...such a great guide!

I just ordered a new 60qt brew kettle (In preparation for full boils and double batches). This may be a dumb questions, but is that pot going to be too large for this method to boil in? I would still do my mash in the smaller 5 gal pot.

Thanks.
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:02 PM   #408
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Hey Death Brewer,

I tried this method for my witbier the other day, but got terrible efficiency(not sure the exact number, but my OG was 1.036 and was supposed to be 1.044). Not a big deal, just added more extract

Which of these mistakes that I made, do you think could have been the cause(if not both)

1. I was using a really thin Stainless Steel pot that would not hold heat. So, the heat dropped to as low as 140 and jumped as high as 164 during the mash, before I found a way to regulate it properly.

2. I may not have stirred it well enough before trying to hold the temp, and I definately didn't stir at all while mashing. Will stirring during the mash increase my efficiency?
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:15 PM   #409
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1. Yes, fluctuations in temp can cause poor efficiency, especially if you are killing enzymes (close to that with 164°F.) Hitting your temp the first time is something that takes a little practice. Regulating temp using a burner is not recommended, as your temps will jump up and down and using a glass thermometer for reading will throw it off with hot and cold spots.

I recommend keeping boiling water on hand in case you need to raise your temp. If you need to lower it, put some cold water in. No matter what, add a little at a time, mix well, and let it sit covered for a minute before reading the thermometer. Only then will you get an accurate reading. Some software can help you to know exactly how much boiling water to add to get to your desired temp.

2. I generally only stir once or twice during the mash. Once I see I am at the right temp, I just let it sit. Mixing will increase efficiency and speed up the process, but it is not necessary...those enzymes will find their way to the starches...and I think maintaining the right temperature is more important, flavor-wise.

Time might be more of a factor...how long did you mash?
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:16 PM   #410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by json2001 View Post
Back reviewing the guide for my next beer...such a great guide!

I just ordered a new 60qt brew kettle (In preparation for full boils and double batches). This may be a dumb questions, but is that pot going to be too large for this method to boil in? I would still do my mash in the smaller 5 gal pot.

Thanks.
That should be fine. You might have trouble attaching the bag and if you are using a stove-top, there might be problems with bringing it to a boil.
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