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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > Easy Partial Mash Brewing (with pics)
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:55 PM   #1361
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Originally Posted by rachelclark21 View Post
I took a gravity reading on the wort after cooling, but it is written down at home. I can post after work. Should I be taking one prior to that point in the process?
Well, I take a sample after I'm all done with mashing, cool it in the fridge, and check the gravity before beginning the boil. The reason being that if it's way low, I'll need to add some extract to bring it closer to where it's supposed to be. If it's way high (has never happened to me!), I'll adjust my hops schedule accordingly.

If you only take a reading after cooling the wort and discover that your OG is way low, you can boil some extract for 10 minutes, cool it, and add it to the fermenter. The exact amount would depend on how far off you are from your target gravity. This shouldn't come up normally once you have a system where you can get close to the same efficiency with every batch.

But anyway, I asked about the gravity because you said your beer was weak/watered down. I'm wondering if you didn't get very good conversion in your mash. Share it when you can.
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:18 PM   #1362
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My first read, taken right before sealing the fermenter, was at 66 degrees and was 1.060. My read after fermentation was 1.030 at 72 degrees.

Sorry it took me so long to post this!!

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Old 12-16-2012, 11:48 PM   #1363
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Originally Posted by rachelclark21 View Post
My first read, taken right before sealing the fermenter, was at 66 degrees and was 1.060. My read after fermentation was 1.030 at 72 degrees.

Sorry it took me so long to post this!!
1.030 is really high considering your starting gravity. Your beer wasn't (or shouldn't have been) done fermenting. 1.060 to 1.030 would be 50% attenuation -- WLP300 is supposed to range from 72% to 76% according to their website. I'd think your beer would be really intensely sweet... is that the case?

There are a lot of variables that could contribute, though. What were the fermentation conditions, and how long did you let it sit for? Are you sure your hydrometer and thermometer are reading correctly (search Google for calibration methods)? The yeast itself could be an issue -- too old, stored incorrectly, etc. Did you make a starter?

The thing is, no matter what goes wrong, there's often a fix if you catch the problem at the right time. In your case, I would've moved the fermenter to a warm (mid-70s F) spot and shaken it up a bit to rouse the yeast. If the gravity didn't budge from 1.030 for a few days, I'd probably pitch more yeast. Unfortunately, at this point, I don't know what you can really do for this batch.

Hopefully others will weigh in, though.
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Old 12-17-2012, 02:34 PM   #1364
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The beers flavor is actually quite nice, its just really weak and watered down. It fermented for 2 weeks. I should have done a read before I bottled it, but I was rushing it trying to get it ready for the holidays. The yeast was brand new, and I just followed the directions on the package. I had no idea you needed to make a starter for liquid yeast, but I just read up on that and it is definitely good to know! There was intense action in the fermenter for the first 3 or 4 days of fermentation, so I assumed everything was going great.

I guess I need to add a few more steps to my process next time: more hydrometer readings and a starter for the yeast!

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Old 12-20-2012, 01:47 PM   #1365
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Will be using this writeup next week to make up one or two partial mash brews.

Thanks deathbrewer...

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Old 12-27-2012, 08:01 AM   #1366
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I'll be doing a partial mash this weekend, but I'll also be doing a full 5 gallon boil (as I just received a wort chiller and want to use it). Is the 1.25 qt/lb also an important part of the actual conversion? Would the grains convert just as well in 5 gallons of 152 degree water with no sparge, as they would in say 2 gallons with a sparge?

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Old 12-27-2012, 01:00 PM   #1367
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Quote:
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I'll be doing a partial mash this weekend, but I'll also be doing a full 5 gallon boil (as I just received a wort chiller and want to use it). Is the 1.25 qt/lb also an important part of the actual conversion? Would the grains convert just as well in 5 gallons of 152 degree water with no sparge, as they would in say 2 gallons with a sparge?
I would sparge the water in a second pot after the initial mash but that's just me.

I've done 2 partial mash's in the last week and I get plenty of goodies from the sparging so I would say do it as it's explained in this thread and use 1.25 or 1.5 gallongs of water per lb of grain you have. I wen the 1.5 per lb and felt it was a good ratio.
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:44 PM   #1368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIC0

I would sparge the water in a second pot after the initial mash but that's just me.

I've done 2 partial mash's in the last week and I get plenty of goodies from the sparging so I would say do it as it's explained in this thread and use 1.25 or 1.5 gallongs of water per lb of grain you have. I wen the 1.5 per lb and felt it was a good ratio.
Cool thanks, I'll give that a shot. Maybe I'll do the mash on the stove top in my smaller kettle. In the mean time I'll heat the sparge water in my big kettle on the turkey fryer. Sparge in the big kettle, then add the wort from the mash to the sparge water and start the boil.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:48 PM   #1369
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SOOOO helpful. I just got started brewing, but my first brew was just a syrup, and I really want to get into brewing with grains and hops so I can experiment more and make my own recipes. Thanks for putting this up there.

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Old 12-29-2012, 05:35 PM   #1370
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I did my 1st two partial mash pale ales with 5lbs of grains,& either 3.3lb of Briesse gold LME or 3lbs of Munton's plain light DME. 1.25QTs per pound of grain,or 1.5 gallons of either distilled or spring water for the mash. I sparged with 1.5G of water at 165F for a 3 gallon partial boil.
I used the fresh made wort for all hop additions,adding the extract at flame out to keep utilization up & color lighter. Works great so far with the same equipment I use for my extract beers. Just added the grain bag & a cake cooling rack in the bottom of the BK to keep grains off the heated kettle bottom. Water can circulate better too,I think. Since the SS stock pots were a nested set,I use the 5G for brewing,the 3G for HLT.
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