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Old 10-26-2011, 05:22 AM   #1241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowtones84 View Post

1 lb. quick (cut and rolled) oats
4 lbs. 6-row pale malted barley
1/2 lb. crystal malt (perhaps black patent instead?)
1/2 lb. chocolate malt
1/2 lb. roasted barley
3.3 (or more like 4.3 or so) Dark DME
2 tsp. gypsum
2 oz. Williamette Hops (Bittering)
1/2 oz. Hallertauer hops (flavor)
1/4 oz. Hallertauer hops (aroma)
1/4 tsp. Irish moss
American or Irish ale-type yeast.

Any help/suggestions would be great.
Thanks!
I don't think you need any Irish Moss because stouts are so dark that clarity is not really an issue. Also, I think your hops may be a bit on the heavy side, but that is just a matter of preference. Good luck!
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:08 AM   #1242
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Originally Posted by lowtones84 View Post
First of all, thank you DB and everybody else for the amazing thread. It's taken me three days off and on to read it, but it's all so valuable!

This is a fairly specific recipe question. I want a pretty big oatmeal stout with some good roasted character. It is based off of "Ucklduckfay Oatmeal Stout" from the Papazian book with a few minor changes, partially inspired by other oatmeal stout recipes on this site. Can someone tell me if this seems plausible with the method this post describes?

1 lb. quick (cut and rolled) oats
4 lbs. 6-row pale malted barley
1/2 lb. crystal malt (perhaps black patent instead?)
1/2 lb. chocolate malt
1/2 lb. roasted barley
3.3 (or more like 4.3 or so) Dark DME
2 tsp. gypsum
2 oz. Williamette Hops (Bittering)
1/2 oz. Hallertauer hops (flavor)
1/4 oz. Hallertauer hops (aroma)
1/4 tsp. Irish moss
American or Irish ale-type yeast.

Any help/suggestions would be great.
Thanks!
Have you done your water profile to be certain you need the gypsum? Adding it in there when you don't need it is not necessarily a good thing.

Also, I calculate ~6.5 lbs of grain. When it gets wet, it will be a lot heavier. Don't underestimate how big a bag you need to hold that much grain, and also how big of a pot of water you'll need for sparging.

2 ounces of bittering hops is probably unnecessary. If you're doing a 60-minute boil it's my opinion that you don't need to use a low-alpha hop for that bittering. Save yourself a little cash and get less of a high-alpha hop. If you want to be a purist, or if you think that aroma persists in minute amounts after that long of a boil, then do what you feel is best.

Fuggles or EKG might be a more characteristic hop for stouts, IMO.

Irish moss is not necessary, I agree, but it won't hurt either.

Which crystal malt were you going to use? 60L is probably what you're thinking, and it adds a really nice caramel-toasted-marshmallow note to beers. Is that what you were going for? Black patent is VERY bitter and VERY dark... you barely need any at all. Add maybe an ounce if you want to darken the color up a lot. Use a calculator to find the best solution.

If you want the beer to be kinda sweet, mash at a higher temp (155F) and use the Irish yeast. American yeast will dry it out, so that would be good for a dry stout. If you don't have a lockdown on how you mash, you might consider adding a couple ounces of lactose to sweeten the beer a bit for a sweet stout, or just a few ounces of corn sugar to help dry it out if you are going for a dry stout.

The above is purely my opinion. I've brewed precisely *one* stout recipe, though... so take it for what it's worth.

Enjoy!
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:38 PM   #1243
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Thanks for the replies, guys.

The hops did seem a bit on the heavy side, I'll probably at least tone down the bittering hops. I'll considering changing the Hallertauer to Fuggles as well, I just wanted to try something a little different. As for the crystal I was definitely thinking of something on the darker side. I don't think I need the black patent or the Irish moss after your suggestions and thinking about it a bit more. I've only done two stout recipes, so it's still all a learning experience for sure!

I realize it's a lot of grain, but by my calculations a five gallon pot would be large enough, correct? After that it's mostly an issue of the bag, I feel.

Thanks again!

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Old 10-27-2011, 10:29 AM   #1244
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If you're worried about bag-size, check out paint strainers. They work pretty darned well.

Also, you need to decide if you want dry or sweet stout. If you want dry then: don't use Crystal, use the American yeast, add the Black Patent for roastiness, and consider adding some roasted barley for the burnt coffee flavor. If you want a sweet stout, use Crystal 60 or 80, use the Irish yeast, skip the Black Patent (but keep the chocolate), and consider adding a smidgen (about 1 ounce) of lactose.

I read up on stouts last night, and that's the gist of what I picked up. Good luck to you!

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Old 10-27-2011, 02:11 PM   #1245
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I am new to brewing but wanted to share my thoughts on using Irish Moss in a stout. Clarity is not an issue but I think using Irish Moss and letting the beer sit in the secondary a week can help reduce the amount of sludge in the bottom of the bottle. Just made a RIS and did not use Irish Moss or a secondary and have more sludge in the bottle than I like. Will try Irish Moss and secondary next time and see what happens.

Justibone, enjoyed your comments. Where did you "read up" on stouts? Have read Charlie Papazian's book "Joy of Home Brewing" and am reading John Palmer's book "How to Brew". Neither seem to have a section on stouts where adjusting the recipe for body, flavour etc is discussed. I am sure the info is there, just not in one easy to find chapter. Any thoughts?

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Old 10-27-2011, 02:27 PM   #1246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImperialStout View Post
Justibone, enjoyed your comments. Where did you "read up" on stouts? Have read Charlie Papazian's book "Joy of Home Brewing" and am reading John Palmer's book "How to Brew". Neither seem to have a section on stouts where adjusting the recipe for body, flavour etc is discussed. I am sure the info is there, just not in one easy to find chapter. Any thoughts?
http://www.amazon.com/Brewing-Classic-Styles-Winning-Recipes/dp/0937381926

That's where I read it. I also have

http://www.amazon.com/Designing-Great-Beers-Ultimate-Brewing/dp/0937381500/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1319725591&sr=1-1

but I didn't read the stout section in there.
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Old 10-28-2011, 05:41 PM   #1247
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Thanks. There is SOOOO much to learn about brewing. Sometimes I have to read a book and apply the advice before I really understand what the hell they were talking about. It is a long process but worth doing.

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Old 10-30-2011, 09:11 PM   #1248
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Step 5:
Dispose of your grains and spray all the grains out of your bag. Hang it to dry for a bit...you'll be using it again soon.

[/QUOTE]

Save the grains if you know anyone with backyard chickens.... they love this sweet grain.

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Old 11-09-2011, 01:36 AM   #1249
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I am a pretty new brewer. I always do a partial mash just like this thread and my beer has always turned out good, but very dark. Every time my beers have turned out darker than they should, especially for the style I am making. Do you know what could be going wrong? I usually steep for 45 to an hour @ 150 degrees, sparge with a gallon of water, add water to 5 gal, bring to a boil, add the extract then boil for 1 hour.

Also. I am confused about your step 10...?

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Old 11-09-2011, 01:46 AM   #1250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davious
. Every time my beers have turned out darker... bring to a boil, add the extract then boil for 1 hour.
Try adding the extract at 15 minutes. Boiling it for the full hour is often quoted as yielding a darker than intended color.
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