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Old 12-10-2010, 09:21 PM   #1031
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Originally Posted by krisagon View Post
I have a BIAB question, how sweet should the mash taste?
I brewed one last weekend and it was barely sweet at all.

Here's the grain bill (it was a Chimay Blue clone)


(partial grain "big tea bag" method, start with around 6 gal water)
2 lbs. Munich Malt
.5 lbs. Belgian Caramunich
.5 lbs. Belgian Aromatic
.5 lbs. Belgian Special B
1 lbs. Torrified Wheat

60 minutes at 155ºF
It all depends on the gravity of the wort, as well as the individuals perception of sweet.

That isn't a lot of malt to be overly sweet. Also keep in mind that the malt you do have has very low diadastic power, meaning the 2lbs of Munich is barely enough to convert itself, along with the specialty malts. You may not have got an incredible amount of sugar from them.

That in mind, what about after your boil? You would have boiled off water, and that should definitly taste sweet.

This is all IMO as I don't do partials. I don't even know how I'm linked to this thread, but I thought I'd give my 2 cents.
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:48 PM   #1032
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Yeah, I'm still learning about diastatic power and whatnot...
If I do a repeat of this one, should I add in some 2 row to provide enzymes?

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Old 12-10-2010, 10:06 PM   #1033
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Originally Posted by krisagon View Post
Yeah, I'm still learning about diastatic power and whatnot...
If I do a repeat of this one, should I add in some 2 row to provide enzymes?
I would say yes, maybe a Belgium Pale Ale malt if you want to stick with the Chimay, but would probably need a good amount to have enough diastatic power to convert the 2.5lbs of specialty malts. 2-Row will get the job done, use at least 50% base malt and have good results with my PM's (typically 5lbs 2-Row, and 2.5 to 4lbs of specialty)
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:43 PM   #1034
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Yeah, I'm still learning about diastatic power and whatnot...
If I do a repeat of this one, should I add in some 2 row to provide enzymes?
Well, I don't know, I'm not a partial brewer, but it seems to me that it would be a great place to start
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Old 12-12-2010, 05:01 AM   #1035
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Hello all. I've been on hiatus for over a month. Sorry if I missed any pressing questions. Please re-post if you are still waiting for an answer. I should be around more often now that I have a computer again.

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Old 12-13-2010, 11:44 AM   #1036
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Glad you're back! It sucks to go without Internet...

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Old 12-15-2010, 10:43 AM   #1037
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After heating the strike water to the right temp and adding the grains, do you remove the pot from the heat all together, or do you leave it on low? Last time I tried a PM (my fist PM btw) I had a really hard time keeping the temperature at 150F-152F and found that it went above 170F a couple times (I added cold water to cool). If you remove from heat, do you worry about temp loss and do you check the temp while you are mashing?

thanks for the help btw. Also are you still doing 3 batches a week?

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Old 12-15-2010, 10:53 AM   #1038
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After heating the strike water to the right temp and adding the grains, do you remove the pot from the heat all together, or do you leave it on low?
Depends on how well your pot holds heat. If it can maintain, then yes, remove it. Some people wrap it in a sleeping bag or fire-proof insulation to hold the temperature. I personally turn the burner on and off to make up for heat loss... but that's not very precise.


Quote:
Last time I tried a PM (my fist PM btw) I had a really hard time keeping the temperature at 150F-152F and found that it went above 170F a couple times (I added cold water to cool).
Sounds like your heat source is pretty finicky, but also, maybe your thermometer isn't super accurate. Are you sure you weren't just measuring layers of heat in your mash (stratification)?


Quote:
If you remove from heat, do you worry about temp loss and do you check the temp while you are mashing?
Some people worry more than others. Yes, you should check the temp while mashing. I hover like a Momma Hen over her eggs when I mash.
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Old 12-15-2010, 11:40 AM   #1039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ooguyx View Post
After heating the strike water to the right temp and adding the grains, do you remove the pot from the heat all together, or do you leave it on low? Last time I tried a PM (my fist PM btw) I had a really hard time keeping the temperature at 150F-152F and found that it went above 170F a couple times (I added cold water to cool). If you remove from heat, do you worry about temp loss and do you check the temp while you are mashing?
Pre-heat the oven to your desired mash temp (or just below), then just pop it in and set the timer. I like to mash around 152, so I pre-heat to 150F. The one issue is my ovens lowest setting is 170, so i set there and watch the heat rise till 150, then shut off. I don't get worried about being completely precise about hitting mash temp with the oven, this is just minimizing loss vs being at room temp, just don't go over and raise your mash temp.
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Old 12-15-2010, 12:51 PM   #1040
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I always use a RubberMaid or Gott cooler for my mash tun. I have a stainless steel false bottom (worth every penny) to keep the big particles out. I mash in at about 170F if I am using 6 or more lbs of grain. Less than 6, I have to adjust the final mash usually by adding some cold water. It is always easier to cool than to heat in my case. The coolers hold the correct temps for an amazing amount of time. I run two or three Vorlauf cycles before adding the wort into the kettle.

I am pretty happy with using coolers for the mash tun and I even convert them to cooling towers when I am done mashing.

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