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Old 10-10-2010, 10:14 PM   #1001
NortheasternPJ
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Death, just wanted to thank you for the instructions. I'm 30 minutes into the boil and this has been my best brew day yet. I am not sure why i was scared of partial mashes for so long, it takes longer but a much more enjoyable process.

I have an 8 gallon kettle with 4 gallons or so in there boiling away. With only a mild chlorine in the water (brewed the last 3-4 batches were fine) its nice to make sure everything is boiled away.

Only issue I had was keeping the mash temp stable, it varied between 150-158, but I'll fix that next time around.

My wife was wondering why I was reading stuff on the internet with some guy in camo though.

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Old 10-15-2010, 01:26 AM   #1002
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Got to be one more to say big thanks for this guide. I'm currently 'teabagging' my 3rd batch (chuckle), 2nd partial mash. Looking into converting an AG to PM for the next batch.

DB, if you can stand to hear it again, this thread has been immensely helpful to make this new addictive hobby even more fun.

Cheers!

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Old 10-15-2010, 02:33 AM   #1003
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Thanks for the comments, everyone. And I wear the camo because I've had it for 15 years and it's the most comfortable shirt I own

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Thanks DB.

I usually do 5 gallon batches and have a 7 gallon kettle. If I bought say a 5 gallon kettle, would you mash in the 5 g and boil in the 7?
Correct.

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Sorry if this is a lot of questions, I just want to do this right:
It'll be beer no matter what

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I was looking at your water ratios, so if I did 6 lbs of grain in (I think what you said) is 2 or so gallons.
Correct again...that would be about 1.33 quarts of water per pound of grain. Use this site to get your strike temp:

http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml

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How much would you use to sparge?
I generally use an additional 2-2.5 gallons for this size batch.

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Then pour the strike water from the partial mash into the sparge water?
Yep, in your 7 gallon pot, for the boil.

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How many gallons would that probably be after boil?
You actually lose less water to absorption with this method than you would with a mash tun. I'd guess with a total of 4 gallons, you'll end up with a little less than 4 after you add the extract, possibly 3 after the boil.

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I'm used to cooling 2 gallons in the fridge to chill down the wort after boil.
I would use a water bath in your sink or in a tub and change out the water a few times. Add ice the last couple of times, if you can. Here's been my method in the past:



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Old 10-15-2010, 02:45 AM   #1004
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satan sign above your sink, skull shower curtain. your either single or very lucky to have a wife like that

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Old 10-15-2010, 02:47 AM   #1005
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I don't have that curtain any more and can't say I miss it. This house (4 guys, no wives) live much more respectfully (well, there's still some Satan around.)

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Old 10-18-2010, 07:27 PM   #1006
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Thanks, i'm certainly working on the back problem.

my absolute favorite recipes for this method are my dunkelweizens. it can be as simple as:

Grains:
3 lbs Wheat Malt
2 lbs Munich Malt
¼ lbs Chocolate Malt (pale chocolate is wonderful in this recipe)

Extract: 3 lbs Wheat Dry Malt Extract

Hops: 0.75 oz Tettnanger, hallertau or saaz (at ~4% AA)

Yeast: WLP 300
After reading a lot and thinking over about it, I brewed this recipe with your method yesterday. I could not find that specific yeast though... I decided to opt for the Darnstar Munich instead. It's already fermenting like crazy. Hope it will do the trick. I can't wait to taste it!

Thank for the recipe and more important, thanks for the great tutorial!
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Old 10-20-2010, 04:55 AM   #1007
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Munich is a great yeast for Dunkelweizens.

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Old 10-27-2010, 10:55 PM   #1008
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I imagine something along these lines has already been asked and answered already but I don't feel like sifting through 101 pages to find it.

I currently only have one 7.5 gallon kettle. I also have a basic 8 quart stock pot. Would it be better to make a thicker mash and use extra water for sparging or do a thin mash with less sparge water?

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Old 10-27-2010, 11:47 PM   #1009
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Have you considered using a Gott or Rubbermaid Cooler for your mash tun? I frequently (almost always) mash into a 5 gallon Gott that has an adapter for a valve (available at any LBS or online).

The Gott cooler (or whatever brand) is an excellent method of keeping mash at a constant temp. I also use a stainless false bottom that is 10 times better than the plastic kind that float around causing the mash to coagulate in the exit tube. Once the mash is done, you can boil that amount, which should be way less than 5 gallons, then add water at the end. You can also easily sparge back into the cooler until the wort runs clear or at the desired SG point.


Be sure to adjust your hop count and time.

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Old 10-28-2010, 03:30 AM   #1010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmedved View Post
I imagine something along these lines has already been asked and answered already but I don't feel like sifting through 101 pages to find it.

I currently only have one 7.5 gallon kettle. I also have a basic 8 quart stock pot. Would it be better to make a thicker mash and use extra water for sparging or do a thin mash with less sparge water?
I like to mash at 1.5 quarts per pound of grain. However, 1.25 quarts per pound works well, too. Anything less is unadvised. I generally sparge with less water and often even top-off instead of running all my water through the grain.

You would have to do a pretty small sparge with an 8 quart pot, especially since you need to leave room for top-off.

I would go with one of two options. Use a lot of grain and do a "no-sparge"...this can be a little more spendy as you will get low efficiency, but it works well. Option 2, use a "pour-over" sparge by mashing in your big pot and then using the 2 gallons of water from your other pot and pouring it over the grains while they sit in a colander over the big pot.
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