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Old 12-30-2013, 05:33 PM   #21
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Sounds good. 05 is just a great basic yeast and I would ply with that if you are doing any sort of pale ales etc... 04 is a decent yeast for anything English based.

Good luck.
I'll give the US05 a shot in my next batch then. Will be doing a modofied version of an english ESB that includes a small amout of chocolate malt... sounded interesting. I'm tweaking the recipe for 2 row instead of maris otter and combining US hops with EKG, so its a bit of an ESB/APA mish-mash I suppose.
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Old 12-30-2013, 05:43 PM   #22
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As far as malt in the boil, I do partial mash, maxing out my 5 gal kettle with about 5 to 6 lbs grain (4.5 lb 2 row + specialty grain). Am I okay with just this or do I still need the small amount DME as well? I really want to isolate out where this twang is coming from, and would like to know if its the DME.
I'll have to go back to my original post, but I never meant to suggest you add NO extract from the beginning - only that you should try adding a small amount compared to what you add at flameout. I have always been under the impression that some sugar was required for hop utilization. (I have also heard more recently of people experimenting by boiling hops in plain water and adding ALL of the extract at flameout, apparently with good results. No idea, never tried it.)

Regardless, if you do a partial mash, there is enough sugar from the mash that you will not need to add any more for the boil. You can add all the extract at the end.
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Old 12-30-2013, 06:22 PM   #23
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I'm using a combination of bottled spring water (not distilled or RO - heard minerals are needed) and filtered/boiled tap water. I brew to 6 gals, using 5 gal jug of the spring water, and making up the difference with the tap water.

As far as malt in the boil, I do partial mash, maxing out my 5 gal kettle with about 5 to 6 lbs grain (4.5 lb 2 row + specialty grain). Am I okay with just this or do I still need the small amount DME as well? I really want to isolate out where this twang is coming from, and would like to know if its the DME.

Since you're doing PM, there's no need to add DME at the start of the boil. You're good with what you've got in there already.

The top off with filtered/boiled tap water is fine so long as you are confident that it doesn't contain any chloramine (which won't boil off like chlorine will).
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Old 12-30-2013, 07:00 PM   #24
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Since you're doing PM, there's no need to add DME at the start of the boil. You're good with what you've got in there already.

The top off with filtered/boiled tap water is fine so long as you are confident that it doesn't contain any chloramine (which won't boil off like chlorine will).
My local water does contain chloramine, though so far I've been overlooking this. I've heard that campden tablets will make it drop out, though I'm leary about adding more chemicals to my beer. Is the choramine a major issue and should I just go 100% spring water? Wondering what you and others do for water...
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:42 PM   #25
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It's a major issue if you taste it. It tastes like band aides or so I've heard.

I use ascorbic acid (vitamin C) rather than campden tablets to neutralize it because it is in my water as well. It's a "non-chemical" alternative to campden, depending on what your definition of chemical is.

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Old 12-30-2013, 11:19 PM   #26
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Since you're going with mostly bottled spring water anyway, why not buy a little extra and use it 100%?

I use 1/2 a campden (potassium metabisulphate, aka K-meta) tablet since I'm treating 9 gallons of filtered tap water (I use an electric BIAB system) that does for sure have chloramine added. Unless you eat only fresh fruits, veggies and meats, you're probably eating some K-meta and/or K-sorbate in your diet anyway.
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Old 01-01-2014, 05:27 PM   #27
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Thanks for the advice all. I'll look into the ascorbic acid and campden. Might just do this next batch with 100% spring water, if only to eliminate chloramine from the equation. Hsppy new year!

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