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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > Do Growlers take longer to condition?
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Old 10-15-2011, 01:59 PM   #1
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Default Do Growlers take longer to condition?

I've got a 2L growler, conditioned with some corn sugar. I'm wondering if the Growler would take longer to condition than a smaller bottle?

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Old 10-15-2011, 02:02 PM   #2
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I don't think most growlers are made to carb in, you may have a bomb in the making.

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Old 10-15-2011, 02:02 PM   #3
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From what I've read, growlers can't withstand the pressure associated with conditioning. That may be a rather large bottle bomb you're sitting on.

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Old 10-15-2011, 02:05 PM   #4
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Your growler might explode long before it gets the chance to condition....Growlers are meant to hold carbonaTED beer, not carbonATING beer. There is a difference.

To carb a beer whether or not is is done naturally or with co2 you are forcing the gas into the solution. The pressure builds up, then there's a point where either the bottle fails or the co2, seeking the path of least resistance, forces itself into solution. You could call it a peak point, where there is a lot of pressure in the bottle, both already in solution and in the headspace trying to go into the solution, eventually it balances out and the beer is carbed.

Beer bottles, champagne bottles and kegs are rated with a higher psi/volume of co2 than wine bottles and growlers.

Already carbed and kegged beer is at a stable volume of co2 which is below the volume that growlers and winebottles are rated at. The FORCING of the co2 already happened. Why do you think kegs are made of metal and very very strong? To handle the pressure.

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Originally Posted by RukusDM View Post
This is because during carbing, the pressure can go above 30 or 40 PSI. I have a thread in the cider forum where I did several tests bottle carbing sweet hard cider. There is allot of data there if your interested.

I have a bottle with a pressure gauge on it. I recorded pressures during the carbing process. This is how the data was generated. I also recorded pressures while pasteurizing the cider.

I recently bottled some lager I made. I also filled my gauge bottle and my lower pressure gauge bottle pegged at 35 PSI as that was the limit of the gauge. It probably ended up in the 40's, but no way to tell for sure.


When we bottle condition beer, we are really simulating force carbing like the keg folks do. We cause a ferment by adding sugar. This creates a high pressure in the bottle. CO2 doesn't like to dissolve in a warm liquid. We then put some bottles in the fridge. The temperature of the liquid drops and the CO2 then begins to dissolve in the liquid.

It seems to take several days at fridge temperatures for the CO2 to fully saturate the liquid for a maximum saturation for that liquid temperature.

While the CO2 is moving into the liquid, the pressure slowly drops. I've monitored this process as well with the pressure gauge.

Pressures go way higher than folks think while bottle conditioning. In the following data, I carbed sweet hard cider and stopped the carbing and then pasteurized the cider when the bottle was at 22 PSI. My Lager went above 35 PSI. The data doesn't show the extremes the pressure rises with beer as I stopped the cider at 22 PSI, but it would have continued if i hadn't stopped it.

The gauge bottle has a nice side effect, it tells you when your bottles are conditioned as the pressure rise stops. I then throw them in the Fridge to cold condition for several days before I open. The gauge also tells you when they are carbed as the pressure drop stops. Pretty basic really.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f32/bott...review-205862/

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No, when you bottle condition, the slight fermentation we cause by adding priming sugar just builds pressure up in the bottle. The pressures seem to go up into the 30's and 40's PSI from what I've seen.

The CO2 doesn't really move into the liquid until the temperature drops. Some CO2 may, but not the majority of it. CO2 doesn't dissolve into solution until a lower temperature.

This is really what we do when we force carb in a keg. We raise the pressure up when the beer is cold. The CO2 moves into the solution. The tap pressure is lowered for proper delivery and the beer either sets for cold aging, or it is consumed at that time.

What you would see with the pressure gauge (if you use one bigger than my first bottle had. Should use a 100 PSI Gauge) is that the pressure climbs over time and will level off.

Once the pressure levels off, that means all of the priming sugar has been used up by the yeast. Next, you put them into the fridge. You will see the pressure drop over several days. Eventually, it also will level off. I like to let them sit for a few more days after that, but really if the pressure stops dropping, all of the CO2 that can be dissolved at that temperature has been achieved.
.
I think it goes down to this.....is it worth playing Russian Roulette with your money and the time you spent bringing your brew along from grain to bottling day???
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Old 10-15-2011, 02:07 PM   #5
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I've successfully used growlers to carb in. It takes just as long as regular bottles.

And no I've never had any growler bombs. as long as u don't add more than required amount of priming sugar you'll b fine.

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Old 10-15-2011, 02:08 PM   #6
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Now in answer to your original question about bottle size and carbing, a larger volume sized bottle usually needs more time to carb AND condition. I have some pints, 22 oz bombers and other sizes that I often use, but since I enter contests I usually also do a sixer or two of standard 12 ouncers for entering. And inevitably the 12 ouncers are done at least a week faster than the larger bottles....some times two weeks ahead of time...

Also the rule of thumb is 3 weeks at 70 degrees for a normal grav 12 ounce bottle....to carb and condition....It takes longer for the yeasties to convert the larger volume in the bigger bottles to enough co2 in the headspace to be reabsorbed back into the solution...A ration I don't know how much...

Big Kahuna gives a good explanation here...

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Simple. It's the ration of contact area just like in a keg. The c02 will need to pressurize the head space (Which takes LESS TIME) in a bigger bottle (More Yeast and sugar, roughly the same head space) but then it has to force that c02 into solution through the same contact area...thus it takes longer.
So yes a larger bottle like a growler, if it could withstand the pressure, would take longer to carb and condition than a 12 ounce bottle.
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Old 10-15-2011, 02:16 PM   #7
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This is direct from northern brewer website:
Standard issue 64 oz liquid libation transport vessel for the Civilian Brewing Division. This growler features a blank white space for adding in details on the beer inside and date bottled; using a dry-erase marker allows you to change it at any time. Takes a #6 stopper or a 38 mm screw cap. Pressure capable to 2.4 volumes of co2, not recommended for highly carbonated beers. Avoid bottle carbonating or priming with these growlers, as an unintentionally high level of carbonation could cause the glass to break.
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/c...n-growler.html

I would hate to see you have a mess.

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Old 10-15-2011, 02:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lechien View Post
This is direct from northern brewer website:
Standard issue 64 oz liquid libation transport vessel for the Civilian Brewing Division. This growler features a blank white space for adding in details on the beer inside and date bottled; using a dry-erase marker allows you to change it at any time. Takes a #6 stopper or a 38 mm screw cap. Pressure capable to 2.4 volumes of co2, not recommended for highly carbonated beers. Avoid bottle carbonating or priming with these growlers, as an unintentionally high level of carbonation could cause the glass to break.
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/c...n-growler.html
+1, and those are about the standard thickness of most growlers available, not the fancy heavy decorated ones, but your standard brewpub growler most of us have lying around.

There's enough "growler goes boom" threads to mitigate those folks who have tried and been successful, to me it's russian roulette to use them, they may work, or you may have several gallons of beer pouring on your carpet. I don't know why the difference between putting carbed beer in something and trying to force something to carb in them is so alien to most folks.
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Old 10-15-2011, 02:26 PM   #9
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I've successfully carbed in one of those 2L Rock Bottom growlers that looks like this:




Does that mean it's okay to use this? Maybe I just got lucky. I ran out of bottles on a low-carbed stout and it seemed like a good idea at the time.

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Old 10-15-2011, 02:49 PM   #10
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I've successfully carbed in one of those large in a 2L Rock Bottom growler that looks like this:


Those tend to be thicker walled than the basic ones folks have lying around. I think on one of the vendor's sites they do say it could be carbed in.

Would I? Hell no, something that fancy and expensive, I would save to serve carbed beer in, if I kegged.
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