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Old 03-09-2012, 11:16 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by geeyoupee
What do you guys think about sucrose as a priming sugar? Reason for asking because it's readily available and cheap
I use it for pretty much all my beers now. Never have had a problem.
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:14 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by ChessRockwell View Post
How do you know? This really shouldn't be the case... unless you used too much, but then they'd be overcarbonated as well.
Simply by drinking it, 2 of the exact same beers one primed with dextrose
the other with dme.

The alcohol buzz seamed to hit a little quicker with the
one primed with dme. making me think it's slightly stronger.

Not sure why this is, Could have been a fluke though.
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:19 PM   #13
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I did a Hefe with DME recently. I like the carb lvl, I'm going to try it again.

Here's a good calculator...
http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html
I'm about to brew a Scottish Export 80/- and that calculator says to use 0.5 oz of corn sugar for 5 gallons. I didn't realize they were that low carbonation. It almost seems wrong.

What is really strange is that if I use the calculator at Northern brewer I get about 3.5 oz of corn sugar for 5 gallons.
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:29 PM   #14
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Simply by drinking it, 2 of the exact same beers one primed with dextrose
the other with dme.

The alcohol buzz seamed to hit a little quicker with the
one primed with dme. making me think it's slightly stronger.

Not sure why this is, Could have been a fluke though.
IF they were carbed to the same level, this is not possible - amount of CO2 produced is directly proportional to the amount of alcohol produced. Besides, bottle priming adds tenths of a percent to the ABV. Any difference that might arise between DME and sugar would be imperceptible - probably hundredths of a percent.
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:09 PM   #15
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With a measurometer.
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:24 PM   #16
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What do you guys think about sucrose as a priming sugar? Reason for asking because it's readily available and cheap
I use it, and it's fine. I haven't noticed difference between it and corn sugar (dextrose).

About those priming sugar calculators, I'm not really a fan. They go by temperature, which is confusing for some people who want to put in the "current temperature" instead of "fermentation temperature" or the highest temperature the beer had reached during or after fermentation. It's because colder fermentations "hold" onto dissolved co2 better, but oftentimes people do allow their beer to get to room temperature (like with lagers and a diacetyl rest). Also, to carb "to style" is sort of difficult for some. Yes, it's true that English bitters on cask are pretty flat- but not bottled beer. Those tend to be carbed.

Even though I appreciate that some beers have more carbonation than others, I still never go under about 2.0 volumes since I do like carbonation in my bottled beer. I also never go over about 2.7, even for traditionally higher carbed beers and I'm not a fan of foaming when the beer is opened. So for me, it's almost always 4-5 ounces of corn sugar per 5 gallons for bottling, regardless of what I'm making.

The thing I do like about priming calculators is to compare the amounts of different sugars. If I'm using 4 ounces of corn sugar, for example, I can see the alternatives and amounts- maybe 3.7 ounces of sucrose. That's helpful if I'm using table sugar.
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Old 03-09-2012, 03:26 PM   #17
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i switched over to DME a few months ago and really like the results. 9 times out of ten, corn sugar worked fine for me, but sometimes with lighter brews, i noticed the bottled versions seemed to lack something. i started using extra light DME, and have been really pleased with how my bottled brews turn out, if for nothing else the head is more dense, like that of my legged brews. in lighter beers, i no longer notice the lack of body/mouthfeel that i sometimes got when using corn sugar. one thing, DME will take a tad longer to ferment out that CS, so give the bottles an extra week or so to carb up.

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Old 03-09-2012, 03:27 PM   #18
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I always dissolve the sugar in boiling water, let it cool, and then add it to the bottling bucket. There are always multiple ways to skin a cat, but putting anything in the beer that hasn't been pasteurized increases the chances for infection.
Great advice!
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:01 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Pezman1

I am curious too. Can't for the life of me figure out how you could measure something like that....

Pez.
If you pop a bottle, let it de-gas for a couple hours in a warm space, then throw your hydromathingamabob in there, you can actually find the true FG of a beer from the bottle - if you're super curious. In my eyes it's not worth it, because like other have said, bottle conditioning yeast add next to zero alcohol. Once carbonated, the co2 level in the beer is too high to allow yeast to poop out more ethanol.
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:19 PM   #20
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If you pop a bottle, let it de-gas for a couple hours in a warm space, then throw your hydromathingamabob in there, you can actually find the true FG of a beer from the bottle - if you're super curious. In my eyes it's not worth it, because like other have said, bottle conditioning yeast add next to zero alcohol. Once carbonated, the co2 level in the beer is too high to allow yeast to poop out more ethanol.
What I was getting at is that the alcohol difference would be so incredibly slight for what drhookmec was talking about that I don't see how you could accurately measure it with the tools available to homebrewers. We might be talking .00001?

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