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Old 12-19-2011, 07:28 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by badbrew

I may try this next time. Just a little worried how it might hurt my pail's life. Also worried about the 140 F bacteria issues. Probably worth a try. Heck I can test it on a $3 lowes bucket.
I'm not familiar with the 140 F bacteria issues, i have done this for a year now and havent died or had an infection. I star san the bucket before i transfer if that makes a difference. The ale pail will be fine, i dont know that i would pick it up and move it while its that warm because it does get softer than normal with heat but it wont melt. There is tons of info floating around here about PET buckets and no chill being safe so make sure the Lowes bucket is made of the right material first.

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Old 12-19-2011, 07:44 PM   #22
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I swear it was $59.99 a couple of days ago at my local hd. You may have to order online and pick it up to get the deal.

30 qt. Turkey Fryer-815-4001-S at The Home Depot
I have 2 of them. Here's a false bottom I made for mine:



And:



Made from a 12" pizza cooling tray and 30x30 SS mesh with SS hardware, fits perfect in the 12" diameter of the turkey fryer.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:57 PM   #23
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Extract for John Palmer's How To Brew:
Dimethyl Sulfides (DMS)/ Cooked Vegetable Flavors
Like diacetyl in ales, DMS is common in many light lagers and is considered to be part of the character. DMS is produced in the wort during the boil by the reduction of another compound, S-methyl-methionine (SMM), which is itself produced during malting. When a malt is roasted or toasted, the SMM is reduced beforehand and does not manifest as DMS in the wort, which explains why it is more prevalent in pale lagers. In other styles, DMS is a common off-flavor, and can be caused by poor brewing practices or bacterial infections.

DMS is continuously produced in the wort while it is hot and is usually removed by vaporization during the boil. If the wort is cooled slowly these compounds will not be removed from the wort and will dissolve back in. Thus it is important to not completely cover the brewpot during the boil or allow condensate to drip back into the pot from the lid. The wort should also be cooled quickly after the boil, either by immersing in an ice bath or using a wort chiller.

When caused by bacterial infection, DMS has a more rancid character, more liked cooked cabbage than corn. It is usually the result of poor sanitation. Repitching the yeast from an infected batch of beer will perpetuate the problem.

I do hope the "covered boilers" and "no chillers" read this. If you can taste any corn or vegetable flavors/aromas, this will eliminate it!

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Old 12-19-2011, 08:08 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Braufguss

I do hope the "covered boilers" and "no chillers" read this. If you can taste any corn or vegetable flavors/aromas, this will eliminate it!

I've never had any DMS issues with the no chill method, even with light lagers, but i boil sans cover. That doesnt mean it couldnt/doesnt happen to others. With out getting this thread farther off topic, i suggest looking into all the other threads that cover no chill brewing in detail if you are interested in trying it.
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:23 PM   #25
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I have 2 of them. Here's a false bottom I made for mine:



And:



Made from a 12" pizza cooling tray and 30x30 SS mesh with SS hardware, fits perfect in the 12" diameter of the turkey fryer.
Can't see pics.

It isn't an online only deal at HD, I went last night and my local hd had 16 stock, picked up 2. Wrapping one for christmas present to myself and I'll be frying a turkey tonight and brewing sat hopefully. I assume the burner would be able to hold a 42 qt no problem?

The wait is killing me.. I saw a vanilla bourbon oat stout the last time I was in LHBS, definitely coming up next.

Question on my current fermenting brew (pale ale); once i rack to my corny keg, should I let it sit a room temp to carb and clear up THEN go into kegerator? or rack then move to kegerator?

I'm redoing my first brew (lager) and the liquid yeast I picked up says that it should be at 70 degrees, that seems high as I thought most lager yeasts ferment best at low 30s (from what I read).
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:29 PM   #26
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FWIW - I partially cover (never fully) my pot to encourage rapid boiling and after it gets to a boil I uncover it more. I've never had a problem with corn flavor.

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Old 12-21-2011, 12:57 PM   #27
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Ferment your lager in the primary in the low 50's for about the first 10 days. Then rasie the temp to 60 for 24-48 hrs. Transfer to secondary and start dropping your temp till you hit the 30's for 6 to 8 plus weeks. That's the basic lager way.

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Old 12-21-2011, 02:29 PM   #28
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Ferment your lager in the primary in the low 50's for about the first 10 days. Then rasie the temp to 60 for 24-48 hrs. Transfer to secondary and start dropping your temp till you hit the 30's for 6 to 8 plus weeks. That's the basic lager way.
OK thanks, in my case I'm using a primary fermenting pail and my corny keg, no secondary. So would you let it sit in the primary for a longer time to fully complete fermenting then transfer and lower temps or transfer into corny and let sit then lower temps.
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Old 12-21-2011, 03:27 PM   #29
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I think the idea would be to transfer when the wort is 80 percent fermented. But do not forget to bring it up to 60 for 24 to 48 hours first, that's important. Anyone can correct me if I am wrong. I have 6 batches of lager rolling as we speak using this method.

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Old 12-21-2011, 03:31 PM   #30
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I think you will have to purge the corny every other day if your going right to the corny as you said.

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