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Old 02-01-2013, 06:02 PM   #21
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After your beer is done fermenting you can cold crash it for 24 or 48 hours. This will cause most of the yeast to drop out of solution.

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Old 02-01-2013, 06:06 PM   #22
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After using Irish moss do you siphone the wort into primary?

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Old 02-01-2013, 06:08 PM   #23
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After using Irish moss do you siphone the wort into primary?
It doesn't matter if you siphon it or dump it into the primary. All the crud sinks to the bottom with the rest of the trub.
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Old 02-01-2013, 06:26 PM   #24
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It doesn't matter if you siphon it or dump it into the primary. All the crud sinks to the bottom with the rest of the trub.
I agree. The trub has never settled in my pot by the time it is to pitching temp, so I just pour it all into the fermenter. The trub sinks to the bottom very quickly once it is in the fermenter (there is a thick layer within 24 hours).
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Old 02-01-2013, 06:28 PM   #25
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Default clarity= process and time

As stated above there are three basic factors that contribute to clarity: process, fining agents, and time.

1) process: there is no substitute for proper hot and cold breaks. Much of the traditional brewing process has been built around creating these "breaks" and removing the resulting material. it is possible to make good beer without these traditional steps....and many here will call some of the steps "myths"....but removing the material via "process" can reduce the need for products and time. In particular many will suggest pouring everything from your brew pot into the fermenter...but that will slow fermentation, and require more time for everything to settle out of suspension.
2) irish Moss is cheap, easy, and works. Other products mentioned also work. Clarity-Ferm has not been mentioned here, it is a bit more expensive at $2 per batch, but when used properly makes a huge difference.
3)Time and gravity are your friend! Time will allow all those heavy particles to settle out during fermentation, secondary or lagering, and in the bottle. The more "stuff" left from 1 & 2...the more time needed for gravity to do the work.

There are many ways to make good beer...choose the methods that work for you. My personal preference is to focus on a good vigorous boil, irish moss, and a rapid cool to create a cold break....then leaving most of that mess in the pot. Yes...I lose a little wort volume, but I believe it is worth it.

note: not trying to create a debate...many people dump everything into the fermenter and make excellent beer. Time will remove that material...I just prefer to remove much of it up front. I don't stress about it, but leaving what I can in the pot just makes sense....then time will take care of the remainder.

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Old 02-01-2013, 06:32 PM   #26
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As stated above there are three basic factors that contribute to clarity: process, fining agents, and time.

1) process: there is no substitute for proper hot and cold breaks. Much of the traditional brewing process has been built around creating these "breaks" and removing the resulting material. it is possible to make good beer without these traditional steps....and many here will call some of the steps "myths"....but removing the material via "process" can reduce the need for products and time. In particular many will suggest pouring everything from your brew pot into the fermenter...but that will slow fermentation, and require more time for everything to settle out of suspension.
2) irish Moss is cheap, easy, and works. Other products mentioned also work. Clarity-Ferm has not been mentioned here, it is a bit more expensive at $2 per batch, but when used properly makes a huge difference.
3)Time and gravity are your friend! Time will allow all those heavy particles to settle out during fermentation, secondary or lagering, and in the bottle. The more "stuff" left from 1 & 2...the more time needed for gravity to do the work.

There are many ways to make good beer...choose the methods that work for you. My personal preference is to focus on a good vigorous boil, irish moss, and a rapid cool to create a cold break....then leaving most of that mess in the pot. Yes...I lose a little wort volume, but I believe it is worth it.
How are you able to lose only a little wort volume by leaving most of the trub in the pot? By the time I reach pitching temperature, the protein solids have not even dropped halfway out of suspension in my pot -- I can still see them within a few inches of the top of the wort. Are you just waiting until it settles before transferring and pitching?
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Old 02-01-2013, 06:35 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by scottland
Irish moss might be easier to work with for a 1 gallon batch. Use 1/4tsp. Throw it in the boil with 10min left
Sounds great! Ill try it next time I brew!
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Old 02-01-2013, 06:40 PM   #28
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Totally off subject but this has come up a few times in the post already. I've been siphoning my wort to my fermenter. Most of you actually POUR your entire pot into your fermenter!?

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Old 02-01-2013, 06:40 PM   #29
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Things that have worked really well for me:

* Filtering
* Gelatin finings and then cold crashing

Things that have worked moderately well for me:

* Whirlfloc tablets and then cold-crashing
* Cold crashing by itself

Things that have not worked well for me after numerous tries:

* Irish moss
* Leaving beer sit in primary for a 4 weeks

I haven't tried Whirlfloc tablets by themselves.

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Old 02-01-2013, 06:47 PM   #30
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Totally off subject but this has come up a few times in the post already. I've been siphoning my wort to my fermenter. Most of you actually POUR your entire pot into your fermenter!?
Yep. I pour my wort through a strainer that fits nicely atop my fermenters. This has the added benefit of really aerating the wort to allow the yeast to get a good start.
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