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Old 05-18-2014, 05:05 PM   #11
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My advice would be to get a cooler without an existing drain. Drill your own tap fitting. If you use the existing hole it will be harder for you to get a water tight seal.
Sometimes simple is better. #3 rubber stopper works remarkably well.
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Old 05-18-2014, 05:15 PM   #12
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Sometimes simple is better. #3 rubber stopper works remarkably well.
How does the filter work with this? False bottom?
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Old 05-18-2014, 05:39 PM   #13
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For my 10 gallon rubbermaid mashtun cooler I bought a white voile curtain from Walmart for $5 and used my sewing machine to make 3 voile grain sacks the fit inside cooler. The material is the same as what is used for BIAB and this along with the ss hose braid forms an excellent filtration system. No vorlaf stage is needed and i have never had a stuck sparge. It also makes clean up easy because you just pull out the bag, dump the grain and then rinse out the mashtun.

The other option you can do is to just cut the sleeve end of the curtain off and then cut this into strips that will act like a sock slipping over the ss hose braid. Tie a know in one end then secure the other end with a ziptie and go ahead a brew. I would recommend boiling either the bag or the voile sleeve sock prior to first use. I have made over 20 mashtuns using this method and no one has ever brought one back.

Just another option to consider.

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Old 05-18-2014, 06:34 PM   #14
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How does the filter work with this? False bottom?
Hose braid. Pretty versatile though. You could run copper through the stopper instead of vinyl and do whatever setup you wanted to. Just make sure you insert the stopper from the inside of the cooler. I've never had a single drop of leakage.
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Old 05-18-2014, 07:51 PM   #15
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I useda 48-qt rectangular myself. Bought it at Home Depot.
Build a copper manifold for it, sort of a figure-8 design, with a ball spigot from one of the online shops. Have not had an issue with leakage at all.

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Old 05-19-2014, 06:08 PM   #16
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No vorlaf stage is needed and i have never had a stuck sparge.
I find that hard to believe, it wasn't till I switch from BIAB to pumped vorlauf that I noticed the difference in clarity of the wort at the start of the brew.

Thought the bag in the BIAB keeps out husk and the bigger parts there is a lot of fine material especially after sparging that ends up in the beer. Its literally clay-like slurry you get on top of the grain bed after the sparge when you do a slow 15 vorlauf with a pump..

Whether this makes a difference to the final beer is another matter. Theoretically it could but if it is perceivable is the question.

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It also makes clean up easy because you just pull out the bag, dump the grain and then rinse out the mashtun.
That is well worthwhile though, to gotta clean the bag but no endless scooping.
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Old 05-19-2014, 06:09 PM   #17
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Sometimes simple is better. #3 rubber stopper works remarkably well.
If it works go for it. I had bought the ball valve by that point though.
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:06 PM   #18
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Default Building my own Mash Tun

I use a rectangular cooler and a copper manifold. All extra stuff I had. $0.00 cost!
imageuploadedbyhome-brew1400526306.566639.jpg

Works great. I'm getting +80% efficiency.

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Old 05-19-2014, 10:04 PM   #19
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[QUOTE=Queequeg;6139206]I find that hard to believe, it wasn't till I switch from BIAB to pumped vorlauf that I noticed the difference in clarity of the wort at the start of the brew.

QUOTE]

I will try to take a picture of the wort on the first pull next time I brew to show anyone interested in the wort clarity. I have had a much easier and short brew session using this method. One could still do a 1-2 quart vorlaf process in addition to using this extra filtration method. In the past I would have to vorlaf multiple times to keep the grain particles out even using a very slow flow rate.

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Old 05-20-2014, 01:43 PM   #20
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Is it a particularly fine mesh on the bag?

Here is a picture of my 1st runnings as I was pumping to the brew kettle. This was a Rye IPA

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