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Old 02-07-2013, 01:43 PM   #21
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Chilling the hot wort down to pitch temp in 20 minutes or less greatly reduces or elliminates chill haze at fridge time. Use a medium to high flocculation yeast to get it to settle out quicker. Give the beer time to hit FG in primary. Then 3-7 days to clean up & settle out clear or slightly misty. Then bottle carb & condition 3-4 weeks at 70F or more.
My beers usually clear up the first few days in the bottles. My PM biab beers still have a very slight haze to them from the fine crush of the grains needed for biab. But a week in the fridge cold crashes them in the bottles & gets nice carbonation & head. They pour crystal clear. See my gallery for cascade pale ale. That was my 1st PM ale.
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:06 PM   #22
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My fermentation chamber is a cooler in my basement right now...a perfect 60 degrees. I used to add water but started getting some mold on a batch. Now I just add about ten ice packs to the cooler around the carboy 2 days prior to my secondary, then two more prior to bottling. My beer is crystal clear in the bottles to begin with, even with dry hopping. I use whirlfloc but have had crystal clear without it.

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Old 02-07-2013, 02:24 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by sweetcell View Post
i too lack a fridge for cold crashing, so i do "cool crashing": place some water and ice/ice packs/bottles of frozen water in a tub, then drop your fermenter in there. replace the ice two or three times a day. i don't get down to 34*F like i might in a fridge, but i get to the mid-40's which is plenty to get the yeast to flocc out.
If he is using Lake Michigan water he is from the midwest and could just put it in the garage this time of year.
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:26 PM   #24
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Why does bulk conditioning clear beer better than it would in bottles over the same amount of time?
I don't think it does. Besides, if you let it clear in bulk, then bottle it, it's going to re-ferment in the bottles and have to clear again anyway. This is why I bottle as soon as I reach FG for a few days and no longer wait an extra week or too...I still have to wait for the beer to carbonate and clear in the bottles, and extended time in the primary (beyond several days after FG is reached) is just extending the process.
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:48 PM   #25
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I just give'em 3-7 days after FG to settle out clear or slightly misty before bottling day.
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:54 PM   #26
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the reason i bulk condition (bulk clear?) is to keep as much of the yeast out of the bottle as possible. if the yeast (and other particulate) is going to flocc out, i'd rather have that happen in a carboy so i have less of a yeast cake at the bottom of my bottles. sooner or later some idiot is going to pour violently and kick up all the yeast. i'm just looking out for them/me and trying to limit the damage they cause. also limits the impact of rough transportation: if there is less yeast in the bottle, there is less to kick up when the bottle is shaken/bumped/tipped over/etc. there is plenty of yeast in suspension for carbonating the beer.

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Old 02-07-2013, 03:57 PM   #27
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I have not been able to get crystal clarity in a beer that includes any grain (e.g., not all extract) until it has been in the fridge for at least a week. That has bee the case even when I have cold crashed for a week, kegged, and force carbed. Give it time in the fridge and it will clear.

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Old 02-07-2013, 03:59 PM   #28
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Yup. Same here. I really think it's the finest silty,floury part of the grain crush dissolved in the beer. 1 week fridge time is an effective cold crash for this one. It's the only way it finally settles out.
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:04 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unionrdr View Post
Yup. Same here. I really think it's the finest silty,floury part of the grain crush dissolved in the beer. ! week fridge time is an effective cold crash for this one. It's the only way it finally settles out.
That's what I figure too. My first brew was my only all extract batch and I did not do anything right. Fermented 8 days, after 10 days in the bottle I started putting some in the fridge and they were pretty darn clear from the outset. That was without a wort chiller or cold crash.
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Old 02-07-2013, 05:36 PM   #30
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I'm brewing with Chicago city water. I'll add some CaCl usually, gypsum occasionally, and lactic acid if the water calc says I need it. I only have PH test strips but things seem to be in the right range there.

HCO3- is at 129ppm by the water report. A little highish but nothing crazy at all. Should I look at diluting with distilled?
Can you link me to the water report you are referencing?
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