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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > Brewing Dead Ringer IPA
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:43 PM   #21
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I would definitely like to try a full volume boil, how would I change the hop schedule? Also, one mistake I made while brewing this batch was dumping in the both bottles of LME at the same time - it took forever for the thick syrup to pour out of the jugs and I had no hands to stir. I didn't think the extract would burn on the bottom of the pot but it did. I had a small path of burnt malt extract on the bottom. Think this will affect the flavor?

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Old 01-16-2014, 02:51 PM   #22
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The burnt LME might be noticeable, not really sure on that one. A tip for that is to let the bottle of LME sit in your sink with hot water for 15 minutes or so. It helps thin it out so you can pour it out easier. I am usually stirring with one hand as I'm pouring with the other. Another trick with extract is "late extract addition", you can search for it here if you haven't read about it before.

Others have adjusted their hop schedule for full volume boils, but I never did. The theory is that you would end up with beers that were too bitter, as the hop utilization goes up with more diluted sugars. I never had a batch that turned out too bitter. I suppose you could find opposite opinions out there on this one.

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Old 01-16-2014, 10:57 PM   #23
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So I am slightly concerned about transferring to my secondary fermenter. It sounds like I can easily introduce oxygen which is unwanted at that stage in the fermentation. Is this a real concern? It appears many people are now dismissing the idea that a secondary fermentation is necessary. Any thoughts?

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Old 01-16-2014, 11:10 PM   #24
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Re: hop addition adjustments for full boil - I read on here somewhere that a quick way to figure that out is to go to NB's website, and pull up the all-grain version of the recipe. Obviously, this works for NB recipes only...

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Old 01-17-2014, 01:50 AM   #25
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Thanks for the tip. I just checked the NB Black IPA All grain recipe vs. the extract recipe - turns out the hop schedule is identical. Seems to lend some credence to what you said, solbes.

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Old 01-17-2014, 02:15 PM   #26
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Sometimes the science just doesn't translate into noticeable effects, as in the hop utliziation for full volume boils.

As to transferring to secondary. I don't have a problem racking to secodnary and I don't think it introduces oxygen as long as you rack it properly. The benefit is clearing. Take a gander about an hour after racking and you will be amazed at how much yeast has dropped to the bottom of the carboy. A day later and more of it will be there.

Alternatively I'd say you can get 50-90% of that effect (depending on yeast strain), by chilling your beer down in primary to 35F or so for 3-4 days. The cold helps drop out much of the yeast in primary and racking to secondary is not needed. This makes for about 3 minutes of work vs 15-20 to rack a batch.

I use one or the other still. Some yeast strains do not drop out well with cold crashing, so I rack to secondary. Or some big beers I liked to bulk condition, where a carboy has a lot of advantages. With a lot of my ale yeast strains, I often just cold crash in primary as it's easier.

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Old 01-17-2014, 08:33 PM   #27
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Alright thanks. I am supposed to dry hop in the secondary, so I will try my hand at racking it.

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Old 10-05-2014, 05:52 AM   #28
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Brewing the extract kit from northern brewer tomorrow. When I type everything into Beersmith with my equipment setup (full boil), it says it is 93 IBUs. That seems a bit high for a two hearted clone, no? I'm thinking about moving some of the 60 minute hops per the recipe to later additions.

Was also planning on using 1.2 oz homegrown dried Centennial hops in addition to the one ounce of pellets included in the kit for the dry hop.

Also, I'm adding one pound of extra pale dry malt extract and upping the recipe to 5.5 gallons.

Eager to see how it turns out.

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Old 10-05-2014, 06:07 AM   #29
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My Tinseth calc for a batch of DR about 2 years ago was 61 IBU.

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