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**DarkUncle** · 10-25-2010, 03:18 PM

Hi all,

I saw a really nice SS 8 gal. pot for like $120. However, if you add the options for the thermo and valve, it doubles the cost. Are these really that much helpful that it borders on being required?

Also, if I just get the pot for now, can the thermo and valve be retrofitted in? I suppose I couldn't do that myself but perhaps bring it somewhere...

I'd like to get the larger pot sooner rather than later but doubling the cost for a pot is not likely going to fly with the wife. Actually, it barely flys with me to be honest. I mean I have a thermometer and I don't mind picking up the pot to dump. I just have to be more careful than simply opening a valve. By having to dump, it would seem to me to help aid in aeration before pitching the yeast as well. Then again, that could just be my cheap switch turning on.

floyd242 · 10-25-2010, 03:28 PM

Personally I don't think it's worth it to put a thermo and valve on an 8gal pot...

This is what I use when I decide to brew on my stove

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JXYUA/ref=oss_product

When I brew outside I use a 60qt aluminum stock pot that I just got at Home Depot for $61 (broke it in last night) and this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JXYQ/ref=oss_product

Neither of which have valves or thermometers. I just dump and use a floating therm for now.

I'm waiting until I build out my keggles to add the bling.

Just my opinion.

**DarkUncle** · 10-25-2010, 03:40 PM

Thanks Floyd! That 36 qt looks like just what the doc ordered for me. I've got the boyou classic burner that was linked to in one of the reviews for that pot already. It seems people are also able to get a boil going on an electric stove with this as well. Good for the really cold days. Thanks for saving me $150 brother! And I don't have to incur the wrath of the wife either. Now that's priceless!

**IrregularPulse** · 10-25-2010, 03:52 PM

Thermometer not required for a boil kettle. Can be useful but not required. As for the valve. Fill up an 8 Gallon pot with water and try to lift it. Are you comfortable lifting that full of beer? If so than hold off on the valve. If not, a valve is necessary. Modding a pot yourself on the other hand is as easy as drilling a hole. bargainfittings.com has great weldless kits for thermometers and ball valves at great prices.

tunoffun · 10-25-2010, 04:03 PM

If you have a friend who can weld stainless, it's much more cost-effective to purchase the pot & then have coupler(s) added on. Even if you don't... you should be able to find a good welder in your area that can do the job for at most what the pot w/ the provision would have cost if not less.

For SS valves & fittings... look around. I pay $20.00 each for full port 1/2" valves, which probably still isn't the best price, but it's much better than what you'll usually find in HB shops.

**barma16** · 10-26-2010, 09:02 PM

I picked up a 40qt SS pot from Instawares (this one: http://www.instawares.com/stainless-steel-stock-pot-sps-40.upi-sps40.0.7.htm) for about $100, and some weldless kit from brewhardware.com, and can recommend both.

The pot took a little over a week to ship, but was delivered next day when it did. Did my first full boil on Sunday over a Bayou burner. So much less frustrating than my crappy old stovetop

pkincaid · 10-26-2010, 10:10 PM

I am only 5'2'' with no muscles lol, and I brew with a 40qt pot. No valve. I use a floating therm or my candy therm when doing the boil. As far as transferring; I use a sanitized pitcher to transfer from the pot until it's light enough for me to lift and pour. There are tricks to get around pouring a paycheck into brewing equipment.

buzzkill · 10-27-2010, 01:40 AM

I still use my 8 gal pot when I do 5 gal brews. perfect size. and you boil down to 5 gals. so its not to bad to move (as long as it has beefy handles).
It has a valve, but I use the auto siphon and leave the trub on the bottom behind. Its also my HLT when I do 10 gal. brews.

**Begin2Brew** · 11-19-2011, 10:19 PM

I have an 8gal boil pot with a valve but no thermometer. IMHO no reason for the thermometer but since I use a CFC I have installed a valve on the pot. It works well but if you use a submersion chiller then I would say neither a valve and thermometer are required.