Which Brew Kettle would you recommend buying?

Yakima 728
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I agree on the 15 gallon. I bought a 10, then returned it for a 15. Much more room.

No matter what, my belief is the most important thing is that it has a 3 ply bottom to prevent burning. I don't think the Bayou's have a thick bottom. It only takes one batch to be ruined by something getting burned on the bottom to make you want a 3 ply bottom.
 
Ive never brewed over 5 gallons and still super glad I got the 15, plus boil overs are almost non existent.
 
wilserbrewer said:
Good kettle, good price, install your own weldless valve and thermometer? Just another option? Add your own weldless valve...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Stainle...29173045?pt=Cookware&var=&hash=item1e81f28335

Wonder if you could get a single hole?
Click to expand...

Most deals people post on this forum sometimes when this is asked arent that good, but THAT is a great deal.

Adventures In Homebrewing still has their 9 gallon 1 weld pots for $70 or 15 gallon for 110 if you dont want to mess with weldless kits, which can be a huge PITA or they can work perfectly the first time. My experience trying to get weldless bulkheads to work on my mash tun was a giant pain without leaking.
 
FuzzeWuzze said:
Most deals people post on this forum sometimes when this is asked arent that good, but THAT is a great deal.
Click to expand...

Yea, the concord kettles are substantial for a low priced pot. The two pots listed by the OP are thinner stainless. I have the B/C pot, and don't really like the stamped writing on it...difficult to clean the indentations, still a nice pot fwiw.
 
Two important questions: first, what sort of burner do you mean to use? Anything larger than about 30 qts is going to present a problem unless you have an exterior burner; stovetop burners generally lack the BTUs to get a good boil for anything that large.

Second, what are you using for a MT and LT? If you are thinking of using a direct-fired boiler for your mash tun, you would do well to consider one that is designed from the start with a false bottom, to serve as both mash and lauter tun. OTOH, I really wouldn't recommend trying to use the same kettle for both mashing and brewing, so it may not be entirely relevant; but if you are looking to use one boiler for everything, then this is definitely a consideration.
 
Schol-R-LEA said:
Two important questions: first, what sort of burner do you mean to use? Anything larger than about 30 qts is going to present a problem unless you have an exterior burner; stovetop burners generally lack the BTUs to get a good boil for anything that large.

Second, what are you using for a MT and LT? If you are thinking of using a direct-fired boiler for your mash tun, you would do well to consider one that is designed from the start with a false bottom, to serve as both mash and lauter tun. OTOH, I really wouldn't recommend trying to use the same kettle for both mashing and brewing, so it may not be entirely relevant; but if you are looking to use one boiler for everything, then this is definitely a consideration.
Click to expand...

I use this as my burner: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HEL5QA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

For a MLT I am going to be using a 52qt coleman extreme cooler that I built a cpvc manifold for.
 
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Cider123 said:
No matter what, my belief is the most important thing is that it has a 3 ply bottom to prevent burning. I don't think the Bayou's have a thick bottom. It only takes one batch to be ruined by something getting burned on the bottom to make you want a 3 ply bottom.
Click to expand...

I have to disagree. My boil kettle is a single layer of stainless, and I've never had a bit of scorching. I run my burner hot, too. If you're scorching, chances are the problem is technique (not properly vorlaufing the mash, not adequately stirring extract additions, adding extract with the burner on, etc) or the burner (single jet high BTU), not the kettle bottom.
 
Cider123 said:
No matter what, my belief is the most important thing is that it has a 3 ply bottom to prevent burning.
Click to expand...

The most expensive, premium kettles do not have a 3 ply clad bottom, Blichmann, Stout, etc.

I have never used one, but just guessing the market has spoken.
 
Is the thought that the Concord Cookware on eBay is better than the Bayou pot?
Not to hijack the thread but the eBay one with drilled holes looks great but is a weldless valve and thermometer that bad? I use a masterbuilt turkey fryer burner but I'm upgrading to a SP10.
 
Welded or weld less fittings is somewhat personal preference, while a welded fitting would likely be less prone to leaks or adjustment.

Blichmann kettles aren't cheap by any means, they use weld less fittings... I guess YMMV.

There are write ups giving pros cons on this subject. Try a search.
 
beertroll said:
I have to disagree. My boil kettle is a single layer of stainless, and I've never had a bit of scorching. I run my burner hot, too. If you're scorching, chances are the problem is technique (not properly vorlaufing the mash, not adequately stirring extract additions, adding extract with the burner on, etc) or the burner (single jet high BTU), not the kettle bottom.
Click to expand...

Based on my experience this is a valid concern. I use a Bayou Classic 15 gal for my BK and a 3500W induction burner, and have seen scorched wort at the bottom of the kettle after a brew. I've even had flecks of charred sugar floating at the top! (it didn't ruin the beer, btw) I'm pretty sure I've only ever had this problem when using LME. I suspect the problem is that it scorches before it mixes fully, and since I can't see the bottom during the boil, I can't tell when mixing is adequate. It doesn't help that the dip tube gets in the way of scraping the bottom.

My last two batches which were all grain I don't recall this being an issue, so it may just be a LME thing.
 
I bought that stainless bayou kettle from the amazon used section and it's impeccable for only 60 bucks! I drilled holes for a dip tube and a heat coil. I do EBIAB and this pot works fantastic for it.
 
beertroll said:
I have to disagree. My boil kettle is a single layer of stainless, and I've never had a bit of scorching. I run my burner hot, too. If you're scorching, chances are the problem is technique (not properly vorlaufing the mash, not adequately stirring extract additions, adding extract with the burner on, etc) or the burner (single jet high BTU), not the kettle bottom.
Click to expand...

Agree.
 
Bobby_M said:
I don't think anyone doubts it. I think Polarware is the only viable U.S. made pot. If you like stainless goodies, best get used to Chinese imports or take out a second mortgage.
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Lol. Well played sir.
 
wilserbrewer said:
Welded or weld less fittings is somewhat personal preference, while a welded fitting would likely be less prone to leaks or adjustment.

Blichmann kettles aren't cheap by any means, they use weld less fittings... I guess YMMV.

There are write ups giving pros cons on this subject. Try a search.
Click to expand...

Yeah I've done a search. I guess my response was in response to your claim about the pains of leaking. As such, doing a search is a great idea, I'll just need to add your user name because I was looking for your elaborated opinion on the matter.
 
I have a Blichmann, and it has never even hinted at a leak. Meanwhile, my HLT has a weldless fitting that I installed that does dribble a bit, but not enough to worry about. I doubt it loses more than 1/4 teaspoon a brew. The Blichmann weldless fittings have a washer that fits around the O-ring to keep you from overtightening it. I suspect that's the key to no-leak weldless.
 
Hello said:
I was looking for your elaborated opinion on the matter.
Click to expand...

Ok, my opinion is if you are mechanically inclined, and know how to tighten a fitting with an o-ring, just tight enough, but not to tight, then weld less fittings might be for you...if you have little or no experience w/ plumbing or water fixtures, then a welded fitting might be better for you.
Bobby M has a nice u tube vid showing proper weld less install... Hope this helps.

Bobby M write up linkled below...

http://brewhardware.com/weldorweldless
 

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