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Old 02-12-2009, 12:19 AM   #1
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Default Biermunchers recipe

Hey guys..thanks for all that responded to my last thread. Looks like I may try biermunchers as follows.....

Originally Posted by BierMuncher

Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 6.57 gal
Estimated OG: 1.044 SG
Estimated Color: 3.2 SRM
Estimated IBU: 16.8 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.0 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 83.3 %
1.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 16.7 %
0.5lb caramel/crystal malt
0.5lb vienna malt
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (45 min) Hops 7.8 IBU
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (20 min) Hops 5.1 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (10 min) Hops 2.5 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (5 min) Hops 1.4 IBU
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale

Mash at 150 degrees for 60 mins


a few questions.

-Difference in boil size and batch size I am assuming is evap ??
-What temp do I pitch the yeast and ferment at. I am assuming 20-25 as its an ale yeast
-Also can someone give me a lowdown how to "mash", or a rundown generally how this recipe works...I've never done all grain.

Thanks

Dave


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Old 02-12-2009, 12:40 AM   #2
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This is also not an all grain recipe. It is an extract w/ steeping grains.

Are you doing a full or partial boil?
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:24 AM   #3
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Not sure..this recipe was given to me in a thread...so I need advice on it. Sorry...this is the actual recipe, something got mixed up.......so here is the real one. I know, I was looking at a different recipe...this has DME. So yeah I need advice on the below. I guess I would do a full boil ??

Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 83.3 %
1.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 16.7 %
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (45 min) Hops 7.8 IBU
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (20 min) Hops 5.1 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (10 min) Hops 2.5 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (5 min) Hops 1.4 IBU
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale
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Old 02-12-2009, 02:14 AM   #4
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I am drinking this right now. I steeped the grains in a couple gallons of water at 152 degrees for 30-45 minutes then did a full boil with the hop additions at the recommended intervals. With the DME, be ready for a boilover, it will get away from you quickly. This is a good one
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Old 02-12-2009, 03:17 AM   #5
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So see if I can get this straight.

-Steep the grains in just water for 30-45 mins. Do they need to be in a grain bag and if so how do I drain the bag at the end of the steep?
-After this I add balance of water and DME for a full 1 hr boil?
-Just to clarify hops are simply added to the wort loose to extract flavor and then removed before transfering to fermenter (remember I'm a newbie :-)

What temp would I pitch at ?
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Old 02-12-2009, 03:22 AM   #6
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I'm thinking about brewing this one too. Think I may even try a 3 gal. AG version.

Last edited by McWort; 02-12-2009 at 06:06 AM.
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Old 02-12-2009, 12:12 PM   #7
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you always pitch the yeast below 75 degrees but above 60 (id say). Never 24 - 25 .. it will be ice before then.

The grains will go in the grain bag. Just lift it out and let it drain out... do not squeeze the bag or you will release tannins into the wort. Just let it drain out.

I would do what is called a late extract addition. In short, there is no need to boil the extract (DME) that whole time. Just throw it in there for the final 15- 20 minutes of the boil. This makes your beer a lighter color and removes some potential extract twang (search forums about extrac tang)

I always use a grain bag (the same from the steeping is fine) or paint strainer (5 gallon one from Home Depot or Lowes) to put my hops in for the boil. This way i dont have to filter the wort going into the fermenter. You just remove the bag, let the fluid drain from it and pour into the fermenter.
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Last edited by Jewrican; 02-12-2009 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 02-12-2009, 12:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NNatic View Post
you always pitch the yeast below 75 degrees but above 60 (id say). Never 24 - 25 .. it will be ice before then.

The grains will go in the grain bag. Just lift it out and let it drain out... do not squeeze the bag or you will release tannins into the wort. Just let it drain out.

I would do what is called a late extract addition. In short, there is no need to boil the extract (DME) that whole time. Just throw it in there for the final 15- 20 minutes of the boil. This makes your beer a lighter color and removes some potential extract twang (search forums about extrac tang)

I always use a grain bag (the same from the steeping is fine) or paint strainer (5 gallon one from Home Depot or Lowes) to put my hops in for the boil. This way i dont have to filter the wort going into the fermenter. You just remove the bag, let the fluid drain from it and pour into the fermenter.
I'm assuming he meant 24-25 Celsius, which would be fine to pitch the yeast.

I could be mistaken, but i thought extract twang was only associated with LME? But the late addition is a good idea. It will help keep the color a little lighter.

And if you leave the paint strainer bag in during the boil, just be make sure to keep it off the bottom of the pot so that it doesn't melt. I usually just throw all the hops right into the pot, then put the paint-strainer bag in my primary bucket, pour the wort in, and then when you pull the bag out it collects all the hops and debris.
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Old 02-12-2009, 01:03 PM   #9
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I would also do a late extract addition to keep the color lighter, but you need to add some of the extract when you get to a boil. You won't get good hops utilization with no sugar in the boil.

I would add half of the extract for 60 min. and the other half the last 15 min.

Also, you don't need to strain the hops out of the wort. It is optional and there is only an ounce in this recipe so there will not be much left in the bottom in the pot anyway. If it were me, I would just dump the whole thing in the fermenter after you cool it.


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