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Old 01-07-2009, 05:14 PM   #21
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Doesn't the replication and growth phase also include adaptation to the new environment? If that is true, then proper oxygenation allows for yeast to not only replicate, but also become better adapted to your wort.

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Old 01-07-2009, 06:26 PM   #22
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I use a paint stirrer attached to a power drill.



There's almost 5 gallons in there, though it doesn't look like it from the foam.

I run it in reverse and turn the stirrer on it's side so a little bit is sticking out of the top of the wort. Seems to work just fine for me.

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Old 01-08-2009, 12:04 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Hugh_Jass View Post
I've been pouring the wort from brew pot to fermenting pail several times. Is this incorrect?
This works for me. I generally pitch the yeast in one bucket and pour the wort back and forth a few times. Plenty of foam means plenty of O2.

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Old 01-08-2009, 12:29 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chefchris View Post
I use a paint stirrer attached to a power drill.



There's almost 5 gallons in there, though it doesn't look like it from the foam.

I run it in reverse and turn the stirrer on it's side so a little bit is sticking out of the top of the wort. Seems to work just fine for me.

seems like this creates a big risk of scratching up your fermentor?
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Old 01-08-2009, 01:42 AM   #25
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If doing a partial boil, I will put the pre-boiled topping off water in sanitized containers half way, and shake awhile, then pour into fermentor. On top of that, I let the cooled wort splish-splash into the water.

Pitch yeast, stir-in and shake for a min or so.

Happy yeast

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Old 01-08-2009, 01:46 AM   #26
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seems like this creates a big risk of scratching up your fermentor?
As long as you're strong enough to hang on to it, you shouldn't have any problems. It's not an auger.
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Old 01-08-2009, 02:20 AM   #27
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Isn't pouring from the brewpot to the fermentor aerate well enough? Or perhaps we are talking about some other means of getting the wort from the brewpot to the fermentor?
thats what i did worked fine for my situation
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Old 01-08-2009, 06:44 AM   #28
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Parting thought from a science point of view --- seem to recall doing several labs in college measuring dissolved oxygen in water --- at high temperatures a liquids ability to absorb and hold oxygen is reduced quite a bit. So if you're going to do any shaking or sloshing its best to do it after its cooled to near room temps. Just a thought

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Old 01-08-2009, 07:07 AM   #29
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I just hold up the kettle at shoulder height and violently dump it into the fermenter, then put on the lid (with a plug in the airlock hole). I sit down, lay it sideways on my thigh and rock it back and forth for about 5-7 minutes at about 1 cycle per second.

I am only making 5 gallon partial mash batches, but this method has not failed me for that purpose. I always get raging fermentation with 18 hours.

I suppose I will do the pure oxygen thing if and when I do larger boils or really big beers, but this seems to work fine for everything I've done so far, including a couple stouts.

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Old 01-08-2009, 01:32 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpo View Post
I just hold up the kettle at shoulder height and violently dump it into the fermenter, then put on the lid (with a plug in the airlock hole). I sit down, lay it sideways on my thigh and rock it back and forth for about 5-7 minutes at about 1 cycle per second.

I am only making 5 gallon partial mash batches, but this method has not failed me for that purpose. I always get raging fermentation with 18 hours.

I suppose I will do the pure oxygen thing if and when I do larger boils or really big beers, but this seems to work fine for everything I've done so far, including a couple stouts.
I agree, that seems like a good way to aerate to me. Also if you are using a start with liquid yeast it will help with the lag times.
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