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Old 09-02-2010, 03:55 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Revvy View Post
It really doesn't matter. People have argued about it incessantly forever, but it doesnt really matter. Remember that couple cups of boiling liquid is going to be falling through space into your bottling bucket which SHOULD have a bit of sanitizer still in the bottom, that combination alone is going to rapidly cool the priming solution, then immediately 5 gallons of room temp liquid is going to be dumped on top of that. It isn't going to be hot for too long anyway.

You can also begin the flow of beer into the bucket and dump your priming solution onto that which will cool the little bit of solution.

Or you can wait 5 or 10 minutes before racking it in, I have it worked into my bottling process (as outlined here http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/bottling-tips-homebrewer-94812/) where it sits on my stove for about 5-10 minutes while I sanitize the last half of my bottles.

But really it doesn't matter.
I agree w revvy, do it a way that feels best to you, and if it works don't fix it. When I used to bottle, I'd cool it down. But that's just me.


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Old 11-08-2010, 12:38 AM   #32
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I did a little research on the grain bag materials when I was worried about them burning on the bottom. The nylon bags have a melting temperature way over 155 F. I've never had one burn myself and they always are sitting on the bottom during steeping.


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Old 11-20-2010, 08:39 PM   #33
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Default Ideal temp?

What would you say is the ideal temperature range during fermentation and also for bottle conditioning? I understand stability is also key. The instructions that came with my kit (Oatmeal Stout) does not reference fermentation and say 'room temperature' after bottling...

Thank you
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:49 PM   #34
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Google fermentation temps for whatever yeast strain came with your kit. Some like it low, some like it lower. In general, you want low 60's for ambient temp, the yeast inside create more heat and you want to keep that below 70 degrees. This is most important for the first 3 or 4 days of fermentation when the bulk of the work is done by the yeast.
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Old 11-20-2010, 10:02 PM   #35
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So it's all about the yeast, huh? It's a Nottingham and says between 57-70, so from the time I pitch the yeast till the time I chill the bottles before drinking, this is the ideal temp range I'm looking for, good to know, Thanks!
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Old 11-21-2010, 11:10 PM   #36
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Well, I'm a noob too so bare with me. The process for them is the same but with a Partial Mash you are actually using base grains to convert starches to sugars just like an All Grain method but are using a smaller bill of gains and using less extract to makeup the rest of the wort.

Specialty grains do not contribute to the fermentable sugars but instead infuse color, flavor and aroma.

Please anyone jump in if I'm confused (which is likely).
You are pretty on target with this.
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:49 PM   #37
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Default got a question for the experianced

If i brew first batch on monday that is if the company i ordered from sent it out on fri but if i do it will take approx one week for primary fermintation and then i transfer into secondary dor 2 to 4 weeks then to bottling how long will it take to bottle condition approx???
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Old 12-13-2010, 01:24 AM   #38
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If i brew first batch on monday that is if the company i ordered from sent it out on fri but if i do it will take approx one week for primary fermintation and then i transfer into secondary dor 2 to 4 weeks then to bottling how long will it take to bottle condition approx???
It usually takes about 3 weeks at 70 degrees for them to be carbed up fully and ready to drink, more or less.
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Old 12-13-2010, 01:58 AM   #39
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wow it will be a long time till i get to drink my own beer LOL thanks for the info
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Old 02-07-2011, 02:40 PM   #40
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so my beer is fermenting in the primary fermenter and was wondering when switching to the second while im using my auto siphon can i also put cheese cloth over my carboys top to catch more of the stuff at the bottom? or do i need some of that to fall in.


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