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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > Beginner extract brewing howto
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Old 10-11-2013, 05:39 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by BlackDogBrewing View Post
I don't know that it would burn, but I tie the drawstring cord around the pot handle to never let it touch the bottom.
thats a good little trick, not that i worry about burning the bag, but just so i can get it out when I;m done with it. I have tongs somewhere but the wife seems to always comandeir my good kitchen tools. lol

if i miss[pelled anything its because i am enjoying an arrogant bastard. drink up
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:30 PM   #102
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Couldn't this sticky be updated to discuss, and encourage, late extract addition? I think point 4 is a little confusing.

4. Bring the water to a boil. Remove the boiling water from the stove, to avoid a boilover. Mix the malt extract into boiling water slowly and mix well (if you don't mix well you can get scorching of the extracts). Put back on heat and boil for the designated time (usually 60 minutes), watch closely to avoid a boilover so as to avoid a sticky mess. Also at this time add the bittering hops at the start of the boil w/ the malt(s).

Could be:

4. Bring the water to a boil. Once boiling turn off the heat. Add enough malt extract to bring your boil gravity up to 1.040 (4oz DME or 4.5oz LME per quart of water). Mix very well (if you don't you can get scorching of the extracts). Put heat back on and bring back to the boil. Once the boil begins add the bittering hops, and start your boil timer (usually 60 minutes).
This may be true and late additions may work best for 2-3 gal partial boils. But I have never seen the wort darken as a result of using light LME with a full boil. (6.5gal) I made a brown ale today that was spot on in color and OG. I used 6.6lbs of Breiss extra light (4 L) LME and added this to my steeped specialty grains and boiled for 60 min. Remember "brew lore" is out there and the best way to tell is to do it yourself, take notes, and see what works for you and your setup. Your results are your results, don't let anyone convince you that what you are doing is not correct. If it works for you, then do it.
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Old 11-16-2013, 01:04 AM   #103
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You've never heard of late extract addition? It's pretty much the default method of brewing with extract these days, as people have realised that adding all your DME/LME at the start of the boil, especially when only doing a partial boil, means significant changes to hop additions to adjust for the high boil gravity....and further darkening of the end beer.

Why "should" you boil the extract for the whole hour? There isn't a reason...if you're concerned about bacteria that problem can be solved by boiling it for less than a minute.

For more info, read here: http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/02/20...act-additions/

I think this sticky would benefit from the update.

A good read. Thanks
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:40 AM   #104
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Default Equipment question

I am a basic newbie but have made beer in the Mr Beer kit, all went well. My wife bought some mixes for a 5 gallon batch which is 2.5 times more than Mr Beer. So we bought a 5 gallon kit.

With Mr Beer I would cook the wart on my stove with no issues. The pot was not very big for a 2 Gal batch. So now I have the kit for 5 gal but the instructions suggest using a 6 gal stainless steel pot. Again no problem with the pot size. My problem is with my stove. It is a ceramic cook top and my wife says it cannot boil large 5-6 gallons worth of anything. To prevent the stove from breaking the ceramic top, they installed a thermostat which cycles the burner on and off. I guess that too much heat is lost for the stove to keep up with. However, I have a couple thoughts:

Thought #1
So I thought that I would use a propane burner that came with a turkey deep fryer. That is until the beer making kit instructions stated to not do this in my shed or garage. I don't feel safe enough to run this in the house...What are the reasons that I cannot cook my wart in the garage?

Thought #2
Are there other ways that will allow the use of a smaller pot? I've thought about using a smaller pot, one that will boil water on the stove and then adding water to the fermentation bucket and once the cook time is done, pour that in with water already in the bucket. This will make the wart thicker until it mixes with the water.

Thoughts or ideas? I'd really like to get a batch made for Christmas fun.
thanks!

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Old 11-25-2013, 04:16 PM   #105
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Thought #2
Are there other ways that will allow the use of a smaller pot? I've thought about using a smaller pot, one that will boil water on the stove and then adding water to the fermentation bucket and once the cook time is done, pour that in with water already in the bucket. This will make the wart thicker until it mixes with the water.
You can do a partial boil as you described. Late addition of part of the extract is common if using a partial boil - then you won't have thicker wort during the boil. See this thread: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/late-extract-400922/
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Old 11-26-2013, 12:02 AM   #106
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ncbrewer,

I read the whole post and it was interesting. Most of it was outside of my question but the general message addressed what you already stated. As a newbie, there were tons of acronyms that require some additional research. I believe that I got/guessed most of them.

Thanks for responding!

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Old 01-12-2014, 12:42 AM   #107
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During the boil I noticed that there is a lot of sediment on edge the pot do I need to pushed it back into the boiling water?

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Old 01-12-2014, 05:49 PM   #108
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It's usually the grainy hop bits from the pellets disintegrating in the boil that wind up on the sides. I scrape'em back in myself. I wind up straining the chilled wort into the fermenter anyway. This also aerates the wort.

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Old 01-12-2014, 06:29 PM   #109
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yup unionrdr is right, leaving them in won't hurt, and then using any kind of strainer does both things, removes some of the particles, and it aerates the wort.

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Old 02-18-2014, 04:28 PM   #110
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Default First Brew

This past Saturday a friend and I brewed our first beer with a brown ale kit purchased at our LHBS. We went by the instructions and ended up with an OG of 1.054 once the wort had chilled. Transferred it to our primary fermenter and pitched the yeast. By Sunday bubbles were happening kinda slow, picked up fast on Monday, and have come to a complete stop today. The kit said that the bubbles should slow down after 4-6 days and then transfer to secondary fermenter. It's the 3rd day for us and the bubbles have stopped. What should we do? Go ahead and transfer to secondary fermenter or just leave it a few days more? Should we take another SG reading?

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