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12-06-2011, 05:18 PM
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#91
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Woodbury, MN
Posts: 36
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When you transfer the wort to the fermenter, do you add tap water to get to the correct level and to cool it more?
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12-06-2011, 06:37 PM
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#92
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Why that human mask?
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Taylorsville, Ut
Posts: 886
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Adding tap water is a chance for contamination. You should boil extra water ahead of time for top off if needed. You can even, if you know you're going to have about 3 gallons when done, put in about 2-2.5 gallons boiled ahead into your ferementer, but you can over or under shoot... best is to just have an extra 3-4 pre boiled and cooled waiting in say your bottling bucket etc to top off. That way you're sure its sanitary water.
__________________
~Phil
Fermenting: 10 gals Phil's Phlavorful Brown Ale, 5 gals pLambic in secondary
Kegged: Best Bitters, Peach Mead
Bottled: Pear Mead
Drinking: All of the above :)
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12-07-2011, 04:53 PM
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#93
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Woodbury, MN
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pompeiisneaks
Adding tap water is a chance for contamination. You should boil extra water ahead of time for top off if needed. You can even, if you know you're going to have about 3 gallons when done, put in about 2-2.5 gallons boiled ahead into your ferementer, but you can over or under shoot... best is to just have an extra 3-4 pre boiled and cooled waiting in say your bottling bucket etc to top off. That way you're sure its sanitary water.
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Ok, copy that. Last question, after I boil the wort for ~60 minutes I need to bring it to pitching temp. What is the ideal pitching temp for a dark ale? I'm guessing 65-70 degrees? I'm in Minnesota so I figure I'm just going to set it outside in the snow (it's like 20 out) and watch the temp. Then I take that and pour it in the fermenter, add my water, and pitch my yeast
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12-07-2011, 06:16 PM
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#94
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Why that human mask?
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Taylorsville, Ut
Posts: 886
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its dependent on the yeast strain, not the beer made, read the yeast packet. Usually that is between 62 and about 70 I usually like 64 unless the yeast specifies otherwise.... Belgian and hefe strains do like to be warmer though like 70-75
the snow works, as does an ice bath, but some like me like a chiller of some kind. Maybe your next piece of gear for summer
__________________
~Phil
Fermenting: 10 gals Phil's Phlavorful Brown Ale, 5 gals pLambic in secondary
Kegged: Best Bitters, Peach Mead
Bottled: Pear Mead
Drinking: All of the above :)
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01-04-2012, 10:03 PM
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#95
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: san diego, ca
Posts: 56
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if you wanna see it live, i made a video brewing with extract:
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01-12-2012, 05:33 PM
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#96
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Centreville, VA
Posts: 41
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hey i had a quick question.....when you take your OG is that a sample of the straight wort or is that after you mixed with the water in your fermenter???????????
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01-12-2012, 06:17 PM
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#97
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Why that human mask?
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Taylorsville, Ut
Posts: 886
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After you mixed your wort with water to get it to 5 gallons. You'll need to stir it well, to ensure consistent mixture or your gravity reading may be off. But you're also aerating it as well so it's great to do it anyway. Also don't ever mix the beer much post pitch, as this causes oxygenation after fermentation which is bad and adds off flavors
__________________
~Phil
Fermenting: 10 gals Phil's Phlavorful Brown Ale, 5 gals pLambic in secondary
Kegged: Best Bitters, Peach Mead
Bottled: Pear Mead
Drinking: All of the above :)
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01-12-2012, 09:53 PM
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#98
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Centreville, VA
Posts: 41
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good to know Sir I thank you for all your help 
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01-17-2012, 01:15 PM
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#99
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recombinent extract muse
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Sheffield, Ohio
Posts: 10,233
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After repeating myself add infinitum with some things in my extract brewing trek,I thought I'd post them here finally.
* I found that re-hydrating any dry yeast not only proofs it,it cuts lag time down to 4-8 hours. Of course that depends on yeast type & amount. But I boil & cool 2C of water to re-hydrate in. I also (controversially) add 1tsp dextrose. The addition def seems to get the yeast going more vigorously. Lag time is shorter as well.
* I also found (duh! moment for me!),that when puting the BK in the sink for ice bath,fill the empty space with cold water to the top of the sink (BK covered) to take the initial high heat off it. Then drain it,& fill the empty space with ice to the top of the sink. Top that off with water,rather than water,then ice. It'll cool down to 65-70F in 20 minutes. Little or no chill haze during fridge time this way.
* Also found that putting a fine mesh strainer on top of my plastic FV's While pouring in chilled wort & top off water Gets the bigger grainy bits/hops out. But more importantly,aerates the wort/top off water quite well. I get 3-5 inches of thick foam this way.
* After that,stir with paddle or long spoon (I like the 24 inch paddle from Midwest) roughly for 5 solid minutes to aerate even more,& get top off water & wort mixed well. Makes for more accurate hydrometer readings. And the re-hydrated yest gets a reall good start.
I also started using a blow off rig the first few days during initial fermentation. It's def needed! Hope these things help some of you!
I also found that Midwest & Norther Brewercarry the large,15g packets of Cooper's ale yeast. They're def fresher than the little 7g packets in the false lid of the Cooper's LME cans. Thusly being able to work well in lower initial ferment temps. with this one,that's 64F.
__________________
Everything works if ya let it-Roady(meatloaf)
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03-02-2012, 03:35 AM
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#100
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 1
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I believe the text and image instructions were both reliable. thanks for posting the pictures, a lot of it for me was determining the right pot to heat it from, thanks for showing that picture.
@unionrdr, thanks for the technical stuff post. really helpful.
cheers!
__________________
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