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Old 10-12-2010, 04:39 PM   #21
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I use something like those in the link. I bought mine at Cash and Carry. About the same price. The 60 qt is fine for up to 10 gallon batches. As alluded to above, if you want it to be 'pretty' go with stainless. If you are just looking for an economical way to brew the same beer, go with the aluminum.

Read up on cleaning though as you can't use the same stuff that you would use on SS.

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Old 10-12-2010, 04:43 PM   #22
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Yeah you cant use oxiclean or anything like that, right? I would normally just be using a sponge and dishsoap anyways

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Old 10-12-2010, 04:50 PM   #23
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Correct, but even a rough scrubby type sponge could remove the oxidation layer. I just use a little bit of dish soap and a clean rag. The aluminum pots are just fine.

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Old 10-12-2010, 05:01 PM   #24
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Sweet... 2 60 quart aluminum pots might be in my future then... Along with two of these - http://www.bargainfittings.com/index...&product_id=91

2 60 QT Aluminum Pots w/w Shipping - 155.78
2 Weldless bulkhead kits w/ Shipping - 73.00
$228.78 for 15 gallon HLT and 15 gallon BK

Still doing some research, but I'm glad to find out that there are options beyond keggles or $$$ boilermakers.

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Old 10-12-2010, 05:09 PM   #25
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You are going to need a Step Drill Bit.

You could go with a 50 qt for your HLT if you wanted.

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Old 10-12-2010, 05:22 PM   #26
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Yeah I saw this - http://www.bargainfittings.com/index...&product_id=99

Seems like a reasonable price

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Old 10-12-2010, 05:34 PM   #27
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Yeah that is a good price and I think 7/8" is what you need for those weldless fittings.

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Old 10-12-2010, 06:42 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeebas View Post
Yeah I saw this - http://www.bargainfittings.com/index...&product_id=99

Seems like a reasonable price
That is convenient however if you want to save a few bucks you may want to try Harbor Freight Tools (if you have one close), they have pretty cheap thermometers too!
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Old 10-13-2010, 08:16 PM   #29
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So after looking around for the last few days (and reading every post in http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/show...rew-rig-46578/) I think for the brew stand I am gonna go with something pseudo-temporary. Ideally I'd love to have a single or double tier with the use of some pumps and I'd love to try to make a stand but I really don't have the $ for the supplies or the time to put into something that I won't want to upgrade in a year. In other words, I'd rather crawl before I walk.

Looking at what was done here - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/walm...ml#post1965734 - with this - http://www.lowes.com/pd_101933-1281-...ving&Ntk=i_pro ducts&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=shelving

I am thinking that with the Bayou burner (I posted earlier in the thread) I could use one for heating both the HLT and BK. Like this -

Code:
HLT
BURN
3----
     MLT
    2----
BK
1----
1 - heat mash water in HLT
2 - transfer mash water to MLT - 60 minutes
3 - first runnings into BK
4 - heat sparge water in HLT
5 - second runnings into BK
6 - (Carefully) Move burner to level 1

Code:
3----
     
    2----
BK
BURN
1----
6 - Start boil
7 - Use IC to get to pitching temp
8 - Move BK to level 2, Primary Fermenter to level 1

Code:
3----
     BK
    2----
PRIM
1----
9 - Transfer wort to primary

Though, now that I look at this, couldn't I just do all this with only two levels? Like this -


Code:
HLT
2----
     | MLT
     1-----
           | BK
	   floor----
Maybe building something out of wood like this - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/show...ml#post1774551 - or piecing together something like this - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/show...ml#post2000097

Even with the burner on its own stand own top of wood, I would still need to put something underneath of it to prevent it burning the whole thing down, right? What kind of materials work for that.

sorry for the poorly written ascii diagrams :P
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Old 10-13-2010, 10:43 PM   #30
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I went pretty budget on my AG setup, but it's been serving me well so far.

I used this cooler:
http://www.coleman.com/coleman/Colem..._id=3000000732

And I made a steel braid using this tutorial:


The only downside of that cooler is, the spigot points down and with the longer fitting it hits the ground. I sit it up on some bricks (ok, some old speakers) to keep it from hitting the ground.

I use this as my boil kettle and to heat water:
http://morebeer.com/view_product/841...Quart_8_Gallon

I added on a thermometer as well for convenience

I use the Bayou Classic burner above to heat it....I have a gas stove, but it could never keep a rolling boil with 5G, and it also added over an hour to the cook time.

My basic process is this:

- Set up Bayou Classic on the back porch. Toss on brew pot and fill with correct amount of water (I got a filter I can hook to my hose water, I don't use the sink for anything anymore since I moved out of the kitchen)
- Heat water up to temp, move pot up to counter (repurposed old "bookshelf" entertainment center) and use a transfer tube to start draining the water into the cooler w/ grain. If it's a small enough amount of water, I just dump it, but usually it's too heavy for me to risk it.
- Put the cooler back on the bayou classic and wait....
- After an hour or so, I move the cooler up onto the counter, and drain into a bucket
- Heat up sparge water, while this is happening move the grain back down to ground level
- Put sparge water on cabinet, drain through transfer tube....pot goes back to the burner
- drain rest of sparge water into the bucket until I have the right amount
- haul that bucket over to the pot and dump it in

It's a bit ghetto rigged and resource intensive, but it got me into AG for minimal extra $$. It would just be too much to get a full on 3 tier system, as awesome as that would be. Plus my situation wouldn't allow me to easily move between inside and outside, and I don't particularly want to use that burner inside my back room.
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