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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Extract Brewing > Water Temperature when adding malt extract
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:40 PM   #11
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It comes down to what you're boiling for, right?

Extracts don't truly need to be boiled to make wort. Specialty grains have already been converted by the steep. We boil them for ~15 minutes minimum as a precaution to pasteurize it. Palmer talks about wort darkening, foam stability, etc. as being the effects of boils (with respect to boil gravity and time)..I swear to the good lord, if in brewing all I had to worry about was "foam stability," I'd go pro.

as an extract brewer of novice experience, I'm boiling to work my hops. I'm targeting an IBU number that the software spits out, but in reality the hops are doing so much more and I'm scheduling my hop additions based on experience, even though were still targeting a number out of a black box program.

another reason to boil is to cook down your volume to hit a target OG, but this is a mechanical solution to a mechanical problem.

god, I'm rambling (don't post from happy hour at the pub while on your third scotch ale)...point is, there is a lot of art to this craft (which is 1/2 the fun). Adding the lme/dme to cold water before the boil is fine.

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Old 02-15-2013, 10:42 PM   #12
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There are recipes that boil only 15 minutes. However, they're going to be very light on IBUs.

Many brewers boil 90 minutes to ensure removal of DMS.

Find what works well enough for you. I'll stick to 60 minutes.

Boiling to reduce liquid volume is only a mechanical problem so far as extract brews are concerned. Once you go all-grain, it's not quite such a mechanical problem because you need a certain amount of liquid to keep the grain bed at the right consistency, then the right amount of liquid in the sparge to extract a reasonable amount of grain without having a piss-poor efficiency.

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Old 02-15-2013, 10:53 PM   #13
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Im actually going to start cutting my boil times down significantly. I add most if not all of my malt at knockout anyway. Factor in how much higher hop utilization is in a full boil and theres really no reason i cant cut boil times by at least half (in some cases). I dont have to worry about scorching/darkening my malt/wort and i save a significant amount of time. Admittedly i am still pretty new to all of this but as ive mentioned before, theres a lot of info thrown around on this site thats based purely on how old "pros" saw things and not by what really works and doesnt. That info gets passed around as truth unless enough people challenge it. After my first 5 gallon run i realized (after some thought and reading up a bit) that there are so many ways to make your life easier when brewing. Dont be afraid to question things that dont make sense or just ask questions in general. I know, that was kind of a rant but ever since i got into brewing ive found myself questioning a lot of the info ive been told and its made things a heck of a lot easier on me now.

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Old 02-15-2013, 10:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thadius856 View Post
Many brewers boil 90 minutes to ensure removal of DMS.
Only for all grain, not extract.

It depends on the malt you're using too. Recipes heavy with pilsner malt requires 90 minute boils. But removing DMS is not the only reason all grain brewers are doing 90 minute boils. It has a lot to do with deeper kettle caramelization and greater hop bitterness and flavor as well.
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:55 AM   #15
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Changing your boil from 60m to 30m, effects more than just IBU's. It will also effect flavor. Depending on the type of hops, you can't just use the same hops for bittering and add more. That said, I have done a few hop bursted beers that turned out really well. 20m boils.

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Old 02-16-2013, 09:48 PM   #16
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Id take a few things into consideration of course. since i add most mnalt at knockout though and i would steep the grains the same way i dont forsee much of a change in flavor. Ill do a few trial runs and see how it goes.

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