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Old 02-07-2012, 02:04 PM   #11
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Okay - thanks! I am also planning on adding a very small amount of my syrup at the start of the boil and adding most (75%) at the end. I am thinking of adding a small amount of DME instead of the LME at the start - but haven't decided yet. I didn't realize that adding the hops later lowers the IBU's.


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Old 02-07-2012, 03:29 PM   #12
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Any thoughts on the following? I messed around w/ the Summit Hops since they have the highest AA...And figure since the kit comes w/ Chinook maybe I should use them. I think I have some old DME sitting around so I can add 1lb of that to help boost this. I might need more yeast though?

malt & fermentables
% LB OZ Malt or Fermentable ppg °L
74% 6 0 Northern Brewer Pilsen LME 36 2 ~
25% 2 0 Briess Pilsen Light DME 44 2 ~
1% 0 ¾ Belgian Caramel Pils 34 6 ~
0% 0 ¼ Briess Caramel 120L 34 120 ~
Batch size: 5.0 gallons


Original Gravity
1.061 / 15.0° Plato
(1.055 to 1.064)
Final Gravity
1.015 / 3.8° Plato
(1.013 to 1.016)
Color
4° SRM / 7° EBC
(Yellow)
Mash Efficiency
75%

hops
use time oz variety form aa
boil 60 mins 1.0 Chinook pellet 13.0
boil 60 mins 1.0 Summit pellet 18.0
boil 30 mins 1.0 Amarillo pellet 7.0
boil 30 mins 1.0 Amarillo pellet 7.0
boil 15 mins 0.5 Simcoe pellet 13.0
boil 15 mins 0.5 Simcoe pellet 13.0
boil 5 mins 1.0 Amarillo pellet 7.0
boil 5 mins 1.0 Simcoe pellet 13.0
dry hop 14 days 1.5 Amarillo pellet 7.0
dry hop 14 days 1.5 Simcoe pellet 13.0
Boil: 4.0 avg gallons for 60 minutes


Bitterness
156.2 IBU / 61 HBU
ƒ: Tinseth
BU:GU
2.55

yeast
Wyeast American Ale (1056)
ale yeast in liquid form with low to medium flocculation and 75% attenuation
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Old 02-07-2012, 03:43 PM   #13
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156 IBU's is still pretty high for a regular IPA, what would happen if you just went with one or the other summit or chinook for the 60 min? I've used chinook before and liked it, never tried summit myself. Try picking one or the other and see how that affects your numbers.

One thing I noticed the way you have it plugged into hopville I think you've got the Caramel and Caramel Pils grains as 1/4 and 3/4 OZ each, instead of 1/4 and 3/4 pound. Just change to 4 and 12oz, I think that's why your color is coming out so light.

One pack of yeast should be fine but I'd make a starter with it if it's a Wyeast smack pack.
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Old 02-07-2012, 03:47 PM   #14
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Oh okay - Thanks! This is my first time using hopville...I will make some modifications. On the starter, I have been pretty intimidated to do this, and know that I have to if I want to make bigger beers. I have been trying to keep the OG down to avoid the starter. I get very nervous when dealing w/ yeast, dont want to screw it up.
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Old 02-07-2012, 09:32 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barkscruff
Oh okay - Thanks! This is my first time using hopville...I will make some modifications. On the starter, I have been pretty intimidated to do this, and know that I have to if I want to make bigger beers. I have been trying to keep the OG down to avoid the starter. I get very nervous when dealing w/ yeast, dont want to screw it up.
Just like making a batch of beer except smallest scale. And it will help out fermenting even the smaller beers you make.
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:39 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barkscruff View Post

hops
use time oz variety form aa
boil 60 mins 1.0 Summit pellet 18.0

boil 30 mins 0.5 Summit pellet 18.0

boil 15 mins 0.5 Simcoe pellet 13.0
boil 15 mins 0.5 Amarillo pellet 7.0
boil 5 mins 0.5 Amarillo pellet 7.0
boil 5 mins 0.5 Simcoe pellet 13.0
dry hop 7 days 1.0 Amarillo pellet 7.0
dry hop 7 days 1.0 Simcoe pellet 13.0
Boil: 4.0 avg gallons for 60 minutes

Off the top of my head, I'd do something a little more sane......156 IBU's........
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Old 02-08-2012, 05:53 AM   #17
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Yea that seems a bit much. That IBU level would probably take your tooth enamel off. But, chinook hops are solid, I've used them before, but if you're going to put as much as you are into the boil, maybe add the chinook at 30 min and add something else first. It's a really high AA and boils up bitter, especially for a whole 30 mins. I used once with just 3oz citra and 1oz chinook and it was definitely a bitter situation.
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:34 AM   #18
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I plugged everything into a calculator and got a color more about 7 or 8 SRM. 10oz of Hops?! That's a lot of plant material to be adding to the beer. Bitterness pushing 150 IBUs is way too much bitter with not that much alcohol backing it up at only about 6%. Style guidelines for an American IPA place the range from 40-70 IBUs. Imperial IPAs with original gravities pushing 1.07-1.09 still only range 60-120 IBUs. If you cut out the addition of Summit hops at 60 minutes, and only add 1 oz. of Amarillo hops instead of 2 at 30 minutes, then you'll still get a high, but more reasonable, approximately 80 IBUs.
Also I would dry hop with leaf hops instead of pellet.
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:55 PM   #19
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Thanks everyone...The feedback is great. I am def going to cut the hops to a more reasonable level. I have all 1oz packs so I can just save whatever I don't use. Maybe I will see how this one goes and next batch will be a BIG one. Its evident after reading all of the replies that too many hops are a waste, and wont work w/ my beer.

Quick question, does DME go bad?
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:23 PM   #20
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Everything I've read says that DME will eventually go bad, but it'll have a longer shelf life than LME due to the dehydration.


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