BoxerDog

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I have done the whole Mr.Beer kit and several LME cans, but I am thinking about switching over to DME.


I understand that they come in very generic types (wheat, amber, light, dark ) so where do I get started with DME? I have been to how to brew , but I would like to find out more info.


Are DME a lot better than LME?

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Yooper

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Well, I wouldn't say it's better. It's different. There are definitely some advantages- it comes in extra light, for example. It's more expensive than LME, especially if your LHBS sells LME in bulk. But, you use less DME in a recipe. I can't remember exactly how much less- maybe 80% DME to replace 100% LME? So, for 1 pound of LME, you'd use .8 lb of DME. Someone else will be able to advise if that's correct.

It's easy to store and great for using part of a bag and putting on a twisty tie and then in a ziplock bag. One caution, though- if it gets damp, it's a rock. It must be kept dry.

Really, no differences in your beer. I don't think anyone could tell which was made with DME or LME. It's a matter of personal preference.

Lorena

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Genghis77

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Probably the greatest advantage of DME is that you can easily get all the contents out of the container. With LME you have to do a hot water rinse a few times.

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DeadYetiBrew

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I think the math was that if you go from LME to DME then use 17% less, If you go DME to LME use 20% more... It was a wierd how it was explained. But like the guy at my HBS said, it's just malt, you will get a different flavor but it's not going to ruin it, and at 17 and 20 % what's the big difference.

TheJadedDog

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I'd argue that there is no difference in your beer. I recently stopped using LME in favor of DME (after experimenting with both for about 5 months) because I find a slight aftertaste in brews that had LME. LME also darkens brews quite a bit.

The one downside to DME is that you have to be very vigilant about getting it all dissolved in your wort.

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homebrewer_99

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Getting it dissolved is no problem once you know how to do it...first...don't boil the water...warmed water works best...second only add 1 lb at a time and dissolve...once all dissolved add the next lb...simple...

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Orfy

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Don't forget the Mr beer kits are prehopped no boil.
You'll have to boil and add hops, you'll then have the cooling issue to deal with.

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Here are some formulas:

Dry Malt to Liquid Malt: Dry x 25%+= Liquid
Example: 3 (LB. Dry Malt) x .25 =.75+=3.75 pounds Liquid Malt

Liquid Malt to Dry Malt: Liquid x 20% minus= Dry
Example: 6.6 (Lb. Liquid Malt ) x 20% =1.32 minus=5.28 ( Lb.Dry Malt)

Grain to Liquid Extract: Grain x .75= Liquid
10 Lb. (2 row malt) x .75 = 7.5 Lb. Liquid Malt Extract

Specialty Grain to Extract:
2 Lb. (Roasted & Chocolate Barley) x .89=1.78 ( Lb. Dark Liquid Extract)

I found in my extract brews, that they greatly improved when I switched to DME. It may have been the quality of LME that was being sold at my LHBS. I find DME to be a much more stable product and produced much "cleaner" beers.

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wild

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I usually have to rinse my DME bags too due to the steam rising from the pot.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoxerDog Are DME a lot better than LME?

Like LME, turn off the heat before adding to keep from scorching the pot. Also because DME is flammable so keep it away from an open flame.

Wild

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hoffmeister

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I've been using a combination of LME and DME in my past couple of recipes and I've been happy with the results. One additional nice thing about DME is that it's a lot easier to measure specific amounts of it (for example, if you want to use 6 lbs of LME and 1.5 lbs DME). I would have to agree with everyone else though as far as discernable taste differences and when/how to add to the pot.
Hope that helps