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Old 01-22-2014, 05:16 PM   #21
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Shhhh! We almost have him hooked!
Good to know I can buy exact amounts of Munich LME if necessary, but not to worry...you've inspired me to give the partial mash a try. Thanks again for all the info!
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:15 PM   #22
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Good to know I can buy exact amounts of Munich LME if necessary, but not to worry...you've inspired me to give the partial mash a try. Thanks again for all the info!
Partial mashing gives you more flexibility since you can get way more grains and adjuncts (flaked wheat, oats, rye, etc) than is available in extracts. PM does not take any more equipment than you probably already have in your kitchen.

You can mash as small as 1 pound (or less) or as much as your brew kettle can hold.

LBussy's instructions are very clear and spot on to get you started with PM. You can always learn more about mashing, water chemistry and what not as your brews are becoming more complex and your taste buds more demanding. With partial mashing you can brew all but a few beer recipes, say 95% of what floats out there or is in books. For example you can't do 100% wheat beers, or 70% rye, or original German Pilsner recipes with PM.

If you like brewing, get a copy of John Palmer's How to Brew. There is an old version of it on line, and 99% of it still holds true today.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:37 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by aaronlcarlson View Post
Good to know I can buy exact amounts of Munich LME if necessary, but not to worry...you've inspired me to give the partial mash a try. Thanks again for all the info!
Good for you! Partial mash gives you so many more options, and is fun as well! As weird as it might sound, I even like to mash my starter wort that I pressure can, rather than use DME, because I can, and because it's so much cheaper.

When I first did a partial mash I just used a small lunchbox sized cooler, without even a spigot, and used a paint strainer bag. I don't do partial mash now, but when I do mash my starter wort, I use a little 2-gallon igloo cooler I got at St. Vinnies for 2 bucks, put a plastic valve on it and use a paint strainer bag as a liner. Easy-peasy!
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Old 01-23-2014, 01:29 PM   #24
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As long as we're on the subject of Munich malt extract...if you ever decide to go this route, keep in mind that most Munich LMEs are only 50% Munich, and 50% Pilsen, so you'll want to account for that in your recipe.

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Old 01-23-2014, 02:53 PM   #25
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Yes, I had noticed that, thanks. Another question on the topic of partial mashing...if the grain bill only consists of grains that don't need to be mashed (like Crystal), is there any advantage to doing a partial mash with some 2-row as opposed to just liquid malt extract and steeping the grains?

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Old 01-23-2014, 03:45 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by aaronlcarlson View Post
Yes, I had noticed that, thanks. Another question on the topic of partial mashing...if the grain bill only consists of grains that don't need to be mashed (like Crystal), is there any advantage to doing a partial mash with some 2-row as opposed to just liquid malt extract and steeping the grains?
There's no advantage in mashing grains that don't need or can't be converted, like crystal/caramel/specialty/roasted malts. There's nothing to convert, all starches have already been converted to sugars, fermentable and unfermentable, during the malting/kilning/roasting processes.

Even the very lightly kilned Carapils/carafoam has no appreciable amounts of convertable starches left, and can be steeped or mashed with the same results.

Very dark malts (Chocolate, roasted barley/wheat/rye etc. say 200°L and up) ideally should be (cold/cool) steeped and not even mashed, according to Gordon Strong and others to prevent extracting tannins and other bitter flavors from extensive roasting.

There's even a recent trend to steep all non-mashable grains on the side, and not to include them in the mash.
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