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03-18-2013, 03:49 PM
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#11
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 9
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That's what ended up happening, lost some to trub, so I think I got about 5.5 into the carboy, maybe a little more. Then plan to lose some to the dryhops.
I was kind of planning on dryhopping both stages in the primary, after primary fermentation was complete, just tossing each round in on top of each other. So you would suggest getting it off all the trub for round 2?
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03-18-2013, 03:56 PM
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#12
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Sierra, Nevada
Posts: 3,468
Liked 256 Times on 224 Posts Likes Given: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mart1058
That's what ended up happening, lost some to trub, so I think I got about 5.5 into the carboy, maybe a little more. Then plan to lose some to the dryhops.
I was kind of planning on dryhopping both stages in the primary, after primary fermentation was complete, just tossing each round in on top of each other. So you would suggest getting it off all the trub for round 2?
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For this beer, I would personally dryhop in both vessels, and rack to secondary for the second stage. That doesn't mean you have to heed my advice if you want to make things more simple and are okay with less clarity in your beer. You can dryhop totally in the primary if you decide.
My thoughts are that you should have no problems with headspace in the secondary due to the fact that you have enough beer to work with. After the 2nd stage of dryhopping, you can cold crash for a day then pitch a 2/3 cup solution of water and 1 tsp. gelatin. Give it two more days at these cold temps. before you bottle for a clear beer.
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03-18-2013, 03:58 PM
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#13
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NBA Playa
Feedback Score: 7 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Posts: 7,744
Liked 1033 Times on 751 Posts Likes Given: 3815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mart1058
I was kind of planning on dryhopping both stages in the primary, after primary fermentation was complete, just tossing each round in on top of each other. So you would suggest getting it off all the trub for round 2?
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I would, mainly for ease of removing each round of dry hops, but also because it may be better to dry hop off of yeast altogether. Dropping yeast can take hops resins down to the bottom and out of the finished beer. Nothing wrong with dry hopping in primary though, I do it a lot, but for something getting multiple rounds, or a super hoppy beer (this being both) I'd go for doing both off of the yeast. If you use buckets, and bag the dry hops, you can just remove the first round when adding the second.
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The Polk Street Brewery
Brewin' 'n' Que'n - YouTube Shenanigans
Quote:
Originally Posted by yeoitsmatt
can i drink this? I mean. Im gunna. But is it fine?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeoitsmatt
it's not a barley wine. it's an ale.
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Originally Posted by bottlebomber
Have you seen the price of ketchup lately? And I'm not talking Heinz.
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03-18-2013, 04:27 PM
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#14
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbrews
I think 6 gallons post-boil is good. When you transfer from kettle to primary, you lose say 1/4-1/2 gallon to trub. And the clone recipe assumes 5 gallons AFTER fermentation.
Did you use Columbus pellets in the early boil, or HopShot? Was a vigorous boil reached before you added the first hop addition? The reduced boil length coupled with the fact that you added about 300 IBUs of hops to a reduced OG at boil start are of some concern. But it could be minimal. Let us know how the final results taste.
For the dryhop, I recommend dryhopping stage 1 in the primary for 6 days, then racking on top of a second stage of dryhops in the secondary for another 6 days. So, assume approx 2 oz. during each stage. This method is much more simple than adding/removing hops in the same vessel. It will also taste/smell much fresher than leaving both stages of dryhops in the same vessel for 12-14 days.
Don't be discouraged if the FG is slightly higher, perhaps about 1.013-1.015 in your case. It is tougher for extract and minimash brewers to hit their target FG as closely as an all-grain brewer can. Good luck!
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I used Columbus pellets and yes I got it to a vigorous boil before adding them. What would the effects be?
I was also kind of expecting not to get down the FG I want.
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03-18-2013, 04:28 PM
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#15
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbrews
For this beer, I would personally dryhop in both vessels, and rack to secondary for the second stage. That doesn't mean you have to heed my advice if you want to make things more simple and are okay with less clarity in your beer. You can dryhop totally in the primary if you decide.
My thoughts are that you should have no problems with headspace in the secondary due to the fact that you have enough beer to work with. After the 2nd stage of dryhopping, you can cold crash for a day then pitch a 2/3 cup solution of water and 1 tsp. gelatin. Give it two more days at these cold temps. before you bottle for a clear beer.
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Good to know, I will follow your plan, I like the idea of a clearer beer, along with the fresher taste you previously described.
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03-18-2013, 04:30 PM
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#16
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordeastBrewer77
I would, mainly for ease of removing each round of dry hops, but also because it may be better to dry hop off of yeast altogether. Dropping yeast can take hops resins down to the bottom and out of the finished beer. Nothing wrong with dry hopping in primary though, I do it a lot, but for something getting multiple rounds, or a super hoppy beer (this being both) I'd go for doing both off of the yeast. If you use buckets, and bag the dry hops, you can just remove the first round when adding the second.
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Sounds good, didn't think of the resins going down to the bottom, only thought of them going out with the CO2...
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