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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Extract Brewing > Need Help with an IPA extract recipe.
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Old 04-10-2010, 12:29 AM   #11
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I've only used ahtanum hops once, for an APA like Stone's. It was nice, but I wouldn't say it's as citrusy as cascade or amarillo.

If you want a very grapefruity hops flavor, try a mix of simcoe and amarillo. I do that in my DFH 60 minute clone, and it's awesome. I love simcoe and amarillo together, as flavor, aroma and dryhopping hops.

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Old 04-10-2010, 01:57 AM   #12
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Ok, so here is what I'm gonna go with:

18 lbs. - 2 Row Pale Malt
1.25 lbs. - Melanoidin Malt

Hop Schedule (100 IBU)

1 oz. - Simcoe (60 min.)
3/4 oz. - Warrior (60 min.)
1/2 oz. - Centennial (30 min.)
1/2 oz. - Centennial (45 min.)
1/2 oz. - Centennial (30 min.)
1/2 oz. - Centennial (flameout)
1 oz. - Cascade (20 min.)
2 oz. - Amarillo (Dry Hop)

Yeast

White Labs English Ale (WLP002) - 1800 ml starter

I just have a few more questions:

1.) What does "Flameout" mean? Does it mean that I throw in the centennial hops at 00 minutes left in the boil? So i turn off the heat and throw them in? Also, where it says "Cascade 20 minutes", does that mean After the flame is off I throw those in for 20 minutes? I am kind of confused.

2.) Can somebody help me convert this to extract? I can also steep specialty grains. Is there a default way to convert from all grain to extract? I am new to brewing so this is all foreign to me!

3.) Has anyone ever used the WLP002 yeast before? Should I use the White Labs California yeast. Would that be more suitable for this type of beer?

4.) This note is included in the recipe: "You REALLY need to do a big starter or even make a smaller beer and use the whole yeast cake for this one. The yeast is going to have a rough time attenuating.
In addition, provide plenty of oxygen in the wort when pitching."

I have never made a starter let alone a really BIG starter. Can somebody tell me how to do this or how to make a "smaller beer" so that my fermentation goes well.

Also, what do they mean by providing plenty of oxygen? Usually I pour the wort back and forth from the brew pot to the fermenting bucket a few times. would this be enough for this beer or do they want me to do something else?

Thanks for your help in advance!

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Old 04-10-2010, 02:44 PM   #13
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1.) What does "Flameout" mean? Does it mean that I throw in the centennial hops at 00 minutes left in the boil? So i turn off the heat and throw them in? Also, where it says "Cascade 20 minutes", does that mean After the flame is off I throw those in for 20 minutes? I am kind of confused.

Yes, it means when you turn off the burner. "Cascade at 20 minutes" means when you are 20 into the boil, add it.

2.) Can somebody help me convert this to extract? I can also steep specialty grains. Is there a default way to convert from all grain to extract? I am new to brewing so this is all foreign to me!

Not sure, I don't do all-grain.

3.) Has anyone ever used the WLP002 yeast before? Should I use the White Labs California yeast. Would that be more suitable for this type of beer?

I use the white labs cal ale yeast for my IPA

4.) This note is included in the recipe: "You REALLY need to do a big starter or even make a smaller beer and use the whole yeast cake for this one. The yeast is going to have a rough time attenuating.
In addition, provide plenty of oxygen in the wort when pitching."

I have never made a starter let alone a really BIG starter. Can somebody tell me how to do this or how to make a "smaller beer" so that my fermentation goes well.

Also, what do they mean by providing plenty of oxygen? Usually I pour the wort back and forth from the brew pot to the fermenting bucket a few times. would this be enough for this beer or do they want me to do something else?

Thanks for your help in advance![/QUOTE]

I've never done a starter and it has never mattered. It gives you a much higher cell count for your yeast when pitching it. There are lots of resources on how to do this - basically pitch your yeast in a sugar solution to let it start multiplying.

For oxygen, I just close my fermenter and shake it for 2-3 minutes (slide it back and forth on the counter).

Here is my recipe for IPA, it kicks major booty and is the BEST IPA that I have ever had.

6lbs NW Gold LME
1 lb Gold DME
.75 lb vienna malt crushed grain
.25 lb biscuit malt
1 oz warrior hops - 10 min
1 oz chinook hops - 20 min
1 oz amarillo hops - 45 min
2 oz amarillio hops - dry hopping

Good Luck!

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Old 04-10-2010, 02:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slipgate View Post
1.) What does "Flameout" mean? Does it mean that I throw in the centennial hops at 00 minutes left in the boil? So i turn off the heat and throw them in? Also, where it says "Cascade 20 minutes", does that mean After the flame is off I throw those in for 20 minutes? I am kind of confused.

Yes, it means when you turn off the burner. "Cascade at 20 minutes" means when you are 20 into the boil, add it.
No! That's exactly opposite! "Cascade at 20 minutes" means you add it when there is 20 minutes left! The minutes after the name means how long the hops are boiled. Not how long the boil has already gone!

The recipes (for example) go like this:

Centennial 60 minutes
Cascade 5 minutes
Simcoe flame out

You set the timer for 60 minutes when you add the first hops. Then, when you have 5 minutes left in the boil, add the cascade. When you turn off the flame, add the simcoe.

The hopping schedule in the recipe above is backwards or something. No way would you do warrior for 10 minutes.

Anyway, you need a starter with most recipes using liquid yeast. Underpitching is one of the main causes of underattenuated beers, as well as some off-flavors. Just like you add the right amount of hops, you want to add the right amount of yeast.

Converting AG to extract is pretty straightforward, but it's easier if you have some brewing software (Beersmith has a free trial, and there are free programs online). Generally, though, you keep all the specialty grains for steeping, and just sub extract for the base malt.

A good rule of thumb is 1 pound 2-row = .75 pound light/pale LME = .6 pound light DME.
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Old 04-10-2010, 02:56 PM   #15
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I just looked closer at your recipe. 18 POUNDS of base malt? Really? What's the projected OG? That's a huge, huge, huge beer! I guess with 100 IBUs, it'd have to be but I'm wondering if you may want to try something a bit different like a regular IPA, instead of a double IPA on this go.

My DFH clone uses 13 pounds of base malt, and it's in the 1.070 range.

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Old 04-10-2010, 04:53 PM   #16
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Hey Yooper. Here is what the recipe has: 1.095/1.030 (5.5 Gal).

Unfortunately, this doesnt mean much to me. The last beer I made, I didnt take any gravity readings. I dont know when to take them! I just fermented for 3 weeks and everything turned out great!

I just made a stout that I am going to bottle today. I didnt create a starter. The guy at the homebrew store just told me to shake the liquid yeast and then pitch it. I hope everything turned out ok.

Well, The guys IPA recipe above sounds good but doesnt seem right like you said.

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Old 04-10-2010, 05:40 PM   #17
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My recipes always have the hop additions "AT" and the minutes. So "1 oz warrior hops - 10 min" means to add the hops 10 minutes into the boil. This started from a printed recipe and it says the word "at" in the recipe.

The rule of thumb that I use is high alpha hops early in the boil, lower alpha later.

So it would appear that it is said both ways. Making it somewhat confusing!

btw: For this recipe, there is a 55 minute total boil.

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Old 04-14-2010, 07:01 PM   #18
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Eon, If you want to do really big IPAs like this, one thing to learn about is hop utilization. I'm also an extract/partial mash brewer, and I am currently limited to about 4 gallons in my brew kettle. This becomes a problem with really hoppy beers because you need a full 5 gallon boil in order to get full utilization of the hops. You could just add more hops to make up for it, but that can get pretty expensive.

If you want to read about oxygenation/aeration, this is a decent article, http://www.byo.com/component/resourc...ort-techniques

And there are tons of places you can read about yeast starters, and I suggest you do. It can make a big improvement in your results.

I don't mean to be a downer, but I'd suggest brewing some lower gravity ales and focusing on your learning and getting your process dialed in. As you learn more, you'll have more confidence to tackle more challenging brews.

The other problem with big beers is that they are more expensive to brew. You may get lucky, and it will turn out fine, but if you don't, it could be pretty disappointing.

Good luck and have fun!

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Originally Posted by eon View Post
Hey Yooper. Here is what the recipe has: 1.095/1.030 (5.5 Gal).

Unfortunately, this doesnt mean much to me. The last beer I made, I didnt take any gravity readings. I dont know when to take them! I just fermented for 3 weeks and everything turned out great!

I just made a stout that I am going to bottle today. I didnt create a starter. The guy at the homebrew store just told me to shake the liquid yeast and then pitch it. I hope everything turned out ok.

Well, The guys IPA recipe above sounds good but doesnt seem right like you said.
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:16 PM   #19
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You could do a partial mash with

10 lbs light DME

1.25 lbs. - Melanoidin Malt
1.50 lbs - 2-row
Bag the grain in a large mesh bag and give them 60 minutes in 2 gallons of water at 150F
Rinse with another gallon of water at 180F
Mix in the DME and add enough water to hit 6 gallons.

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Old 04-14-2010, 09:42 PM   #20
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Yes, but as I was saying, if you do this you'll hit the gravity, but you will have a really hard time getting the bitterness anywhere close to the targets.

I just threw that recipe into Beer Calculus, and if you have a 3.0 gallon average boil, it spits out a bitterness of around 45 IBUs. You'll have no problem hitting the gravity. The result will be a really malty, big bodied beer, that is lacking the balance of the hops.

I'm not saying you shouldn't try it, I am just trying to let you know that you will not get quite what you are expecting. Of course, if you can do a full wort boil, then you'll be fine.



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Originally Posted by david_42 View Post
You could do a partial mash with

10 lbs light DME

1.25 lbs. - Melanoidin Malt
1.50 lbs - 2-row
Bag the grain in a large mesh bag and give them 60 minutes in 2 gallons of water at 150F
Rinse with another gallon of water at 180F
Mix in the DME and add enough water to hit 6 gallons.
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