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Old 10-03-2012, 11:43 PM   #11
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I used extract and I actually manually put it 5 gallon kettle with a 4 gallon boil, so it would match exactly what he said he was going to do.

I'm only asking because I'm relatively new to beersmith and want to make sure I'm crossing my T's and dotting my i's and I didn't overlook something or not know something about the software.
I've only been working with the software a few months myself and am still finding new things. I think numbers in BeerSmith (and any brewing software for that matter) have to be taken with a grain of salt. There are so many variables in brewing and so many different ways of doing the same thing that their recommendations are better taken as a close guide rather than the Alpha and Omega of what the end product will be. Besides, a great beer is more than just a bunch of numbers; if it were, there'd only be one for each style to choose from. I'm sure the truth lies somewhere between what each one of us came up with
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:18 AM   #12
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I've only been working with the software a few months myself and am still finding new things. I think numbers in BeerSmith (and any brewing software for that matter) have to be taken with a grain of salt. There are so many variables in brewing and so many different ways of doing the same thing that their recommendations are better taken as a close guide rather than the Alpha and Omega of what the end product will be. Besides, a great beer is more than just a bunch of numbers; if it were, there'd only be one for each style to choose from. I'm sure the truth lies somewhere between what each one of us came up with
Quite true! Still, having agreed with you, two people inputting the same recipe shouldn't be off by that much.
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:43 AM   #13
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Thanks for all the advice.

I'm getting readings of 1.057 OG and 38.5 IBU's when I'm plugging this into beer alchemy (it does allow me option to adjust for late addition of DME) which is probably what is keeping the hop utilization down. Also I don't know what beer smith does, but when I add the late addition hops the IBU's barely go up.

I'm going to go ahead and brew this this Sunday. I will be omitting the maltodextrin and will probably take the DME down to 12oz. One issue I had today though when I got to my LHBS was they were somehow out of wyeast 1056 and 1272 and I had to get fermentis US-05 which I haven't used before. I'm sure i can overcome though.

I'll be sure to update everyone with how this beer comes out.

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Old 10-04-2012, 05:06 PM   #14
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It looks like your numbers are almost spot on with what I got in beersmith - yes, beersmith adjusts for late malt and I did factor that in - which may explain why our numbers are so close. Each recipe software usually catalogs slightly different AA percentages for each hop, as there is a range after all. US-o5 = 1056, so you are good there, just rehydrate and I'd use a pitching calculator.

Note: US-05 used to be called US-56 until Wyeast sued them for the similarity and Fermentis changed the name


MR Malty says at 1.057 with a packet with production day today you will need 2.2 5 gram packets dry. One will probably work, but I'd use 2 for best results.

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Old 10-04-2012, 05:32 PM   #15
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Also I don't know what beer smith does, but when I add the late addition hops the IBU's barely go up.
Earlier hop additions at the start of the boil account for bitterness. The later in the boil hops are added, they contribute less to bitterness and more to flavoring and aroma. I haven't used the software but late hop additions are expected to have little to no effect on IBU #'s.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:48 PM   #16
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Yeah i wasn't expecting it to go up. I wonder if some other calculators are having issues with that though.
Also for anone who cares, below are the AA% of the hops I currently have stocked in my fridge and will be using.

Centennial=9.7%
Cascade=6.2%
Citra=13.9%

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Old 10-08-2012, 08:30 PM   #17
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Alright so I had what seemed like a successful brew day all the way until when I went to rack from the kettle to my fermenter.
The hop debris and break material didn't settle enough or maybe I disrupted it and when I got to about 3 inches from bottom I started pulling tons of cloudy wort into my fermenter. I could not get it to settle out and so I didn't transfer as much ad I would have liked.

After adding water OG only came to 1.051. I'm concerned that with the amount of bitterness, I might need some more sugar/alcohol to balance it out.

Can you fix it by adding more fermentables once fermentation is under way? Should I have done this yesterday?

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Old 10-09-2012, 11:08 AM   #18
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Alright so I had what seemed like a successful brew day all the way until when I went to rack from the kettle to my fermenter.
The hop debris and break material didn't settle enough or maybe I disrupted it and when I got to about 3 inches from bottom I started pulling tons of cloudy wort into my fermenter. I could not get it to settle out and so I didn't transfer as much ad I would have liked.

After adding water OG only came to 1.051. I'm concerned that with the amount of bitterness, I might need some more sugar/alcohol to balance it out.

Can you fix it by adding more fermentables once fermentation is under way? Should I have done this yesterday?
The way I avoid leaving so much wort in the kettle with the break material and hop debris is to just dump it all into the fermenter. The yeast will use what they want and the rest will settle out to the bottom of the fermenter and be covered by the settled yeast. It doesn't give you any off flavors but it does give you more beer. Since the whole point of brewing is to get beer, the more I get from a batch the better I like it.
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Old 10-10-2012, 04:17 PM   #19
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Thanks.
I'm i'm putting all the wort into my fermenter, should i try to use a secondary fermentation after a week to keep any off flavors from developing.
Also since i'm going to dry hop i was probably going to do this anyways....

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Old 10-10-2012, 04:34 PM   #20
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NO! on both counts. Never rack out of primary till FG is reached. and the autolysis boogieman is dead. Old school yeast weren't as good as the ones available now,& would die off in a couple weeks. So you had to rack off it asap in those days.
NOW IT'S JUST OUTDATED INFO. Just leave it in primary till FG is reached & it clears up. Then use hop sacks to dry hop right there in primary for a week. Many of us do it this way now. Secondary really isn't needed much anymore.
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