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Old 08-13-2013, 01:25 AM   #31
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You don't need to apologise for anything I can't believe the help you are giving me

It's 24 hours since I pitched and there is no signs of fermentation yet I pitched at the correct temp
Which yeast strain? Some are slower than others to get going.


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Old 08-13-2013, 09:06 PM   #32
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Which yeast strain? Some are slower than others to get going.
It's started


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Old 08-19-2013, 08:35 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Yooper

1.036 is very low for 5.5 kg of LME. Maybe it wasn't mixed up well?

I think your time line is perfect. I'd use 4-5 ounces (by weight) of corn sugar for a 5 gallon batch for priming.
Hi I'm back
Well I'm going to dry hop this weekend
Do I need a certain amount of cascade or just a handful
Am I right in believing that you just put the hops in the same type of bag I steeped the grains in and put them in
Is there no risk of contamination

Final question for now

When I pitch the sugar do I mix it with boiling water first and if so how much

Thanks

Hope you've enjoyed your two weeks away from me

Kal
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:38 PM   #34
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Hi I'm back
Well I'm going to dry hop this weekend
Do I need a certain amount of cascade or just a handful
Am I right in believing that you just put the hops in the same type of bag I steeped the grains in and put them in
Is there no risk of contamination

Final question for now

When I pitch the sugar do I mix it with boiling water first and if so how much

Thanks

Hope you've enjoyed your two weeks away from me

Kal
I measure my hops additions with a scale. An ounce is pretty good for most beers, but I've used more when I wanted more. I don't use hops bags, but if you do you can sanitize them first and put the hops in them loosely (don't pack them in!) and add that to your beer.

When you prime the beer, it's easiest to bring 2 cups of water to a boil, and add the sugar. Boil that a few minutes, then turn off the heat and add it to your sanitized bottling bucket. Then rack the beer into that. Put the tubing on the bottom of the bottling bucket, in a circle on the bottom, so that the beer fills from the bottom and mixes up and swirls as it fills. That will mix it up well, without risking aerating/oxidizing it.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:42 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper

I measure my hops additions with a scale. An ounce is pretty good for most beers, but I've used more when I wanted more. I don't use hops bags, but if you do you can sanitize them first and put the hops in them loosely (don't pack them in!) and add that to your beer.

When you prime the beer, it's easiest to bring 2 cups of water to a boil, and add the sugar. Boil that a few minutes, then turn off the heat and add it to your sanitized bottling bucket. Then rack the beer into that. Put the tubing on the bottom of the bottling bucket, in a circle on the bottom, so that the beer fills from the bottom and mixes up and swirls as it fills. That will mix it up well, without risking aerating/oxidizing it.
Hi again

So im bottling Sunday
Can I pour from primary into bottling bucket and sieve out the dry hops

What type of sugar should I use and how much with water

Thanks again
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Old 08-28-2013, 04:19 PM   #36
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It's easiest to use a siphon which would help reduce your oxidation of the beer and would allow you to pull the beer from under the dry hops and stop when you get close to sucking them up.

Most people use corn sugar for priming in about a cup or two of water. Is this a smaller batch? If so you can use less.

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Old 08-29-2013, 08:44 AM   #37
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It's easiest to use a siphon which would help reduce your oxidation of the beer and would allow you to pull the beer from under the dry hops and stop when you get close to sucking them up.

Most people use corn sugar for priming in about a cup or two of water. Is this a smaller batch? If so you can use less.
No it's 5 gallon so how much sugar should I use with the water
I've got an auto syphoning so ill use that
Thanks
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Old 08-29-2013, 03:20 PM   #38
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Ok, so I would use a cup and a half of water. There are various calculators out there that will tell you how much sugar you need to get to a certain volume of CO2 in the bottles. You can go here: http://www.brewersfriend.com/stats/

You will have to figure out how many volumes of C02 you want in this beer but for an American IPA it should be about 2.0-2.2ish

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Old 09-01-2013, 08:27 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopper5000
Ok, so I would use a cup and a half of water. There are various calculators out there that will tell you how much sugar you need to get to a certain volume of CO2 in the bottles. You can go here: http://www.brewersfriend.com/stats/

You will have to figure out how many volumes of C02 you want in this beer but for an American IPA it should be about 2.0-2.2ish
Well I bottled today and had a gulp of it
It tasted like a flat goose island ipa
Considering my first batch two months ago tasted like sour vinegar at this point I'm over he moon
Thank you so much

The final gravity was 1.010 so I've worked out an abv of roughly 4.6%

In order to get a higher abv next time do I just up the amount of lme

Thanks for everything this summer
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:24 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by kal1701 View Post
Well I bottled today and had a gulp of it
It tasted like a flat goose island ipa
Considering my first batch two months ago tasted like sour vinegar at this point I'm over he moon
Thank you so much

The final gravity was 1.010 so I've worked out an abv of roughly 4.6%

In order to get a higher abv next time do I just up the amount of lme

Thanks for everything this summer
If you want a higher ABV, you can increase the extract- but you'll want to increase the bittering hops as well because it's the hops that counterbalance the sweet malt.

Using a free brewing calculator can help you with that, and you can play with it to see how various hops look and how the amount of malt changes the OG.


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