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Old 05-26-2011, 08:13 PM   #11
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Let's say I have an extract recipe that uses 2 cans of LME. If I put in the hops at 60 minutes, plus one can of LME (where the recipe calls for both), then add the second can of LME at 5 minutes along with the final hop addition, would that be better/worse/the same as adding all the LME at the beginning as called for in the original recipe?

Also, I assume that adding the second can would cool the wort and kill the boil. If so, should I wait for the wort to come back to a boil before adding the final hops and timing the last 5 minutes of the boil?

Would I have to make any other adjustments (hop quantities, hop addition time, boiling time, etc.?
I'd probably put even less than a whole can of LME in at the beginning- maybe only 1/2 a can or so. I think adding the LME at the end of the boil will give you a far better beer than adding it all at the beginning. It'll be lighter in color, and twangy, and less carmelly thick. It will also have less maillard reactions, so it will not taste less "extract-y".

No other adjustments are necessary.
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Old 05-26-2011, 08:48 PM   #12
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Also, I assume that adding the second can would cool the wort and kill the boil. If so, should I wait for the wort to come back to a boil before adding the final hops and timing the last 5 minutes of the boil?
This is exactly what I logged in for. Anyone have the answer?
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Old 05-26-2011, 08:50 PM   #13
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This is exactly what I logged in for. Anyone have the answer?
for DME and LME please
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:27 PM   #14
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I don't double up on LME's. I use 1 Pre-hopped can at the very end. You don't want to boil off the hop profile & caramelize the LME,even a little bit. That's what makes it dark,& have less flavor if it's pre-hopped. Having said that,I use 3lbs of plain DME in a 2.5G boil,a 20min hop addition for a little bittering. Then,a half ounce hop addition at 10 mins,another .5oz at flame out for 10mins. THEN add the LME. No scorching,no carmelization,no darkening. I have one in primary now to prove that out.
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Old 05-26-2011, 10:40 PM   #15
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This is exactly what I logged in for. Anyone have the answer?
Yeah, adding the extract (LME or DME) does kill the boil. You should take it off the heat to add it (which kills the boil) and then the cooler extract takes a few minutes to warm up and start boiling again when put back on the burner.

That's why I started adding the extract at flame out. It's still hot enough to pasteurize the extract, but it's ok to kill the boil.
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:12 AM   #16
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So do you wait for the boil to get going again before you restart your hop/boil timer - say if you want to do another 10 or 5 min addition?

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Old 05-27-2011, 12:17 AM   #17
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So do you wait for the boil to get going again before you restart your hop/boil timer - say if you want to do another 10 or 5 min addition?
I could be wrong here, but I think if the wort is CLOSE to boiling, you will be fine letting the hop timer continue to run. I can't imagine that alpha acids are released/absorbed a whole lot more at 212 degrees than 210 degrees or so, but again, I could be wrong.
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Old 05-27-2011, 04:01 AM   #18
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From what I've read you only need 190+F wort for hop utilization. You don't need a full boil.

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Old 05-27-2011, 05:01 PM   #19
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Well,what I was referring to was do your steeping grains 1st,get through the foam up (if going this route),then add DME(s). Otherwise,yes,it took us 1-3mins to get back to a gentle,rolling boil. Then start your hop additions. We both added the LME's at the end after 10 min hop steep. I/we did that on NHB's day weekend,& they're coming along great. Gunna check FG on hers Sunday,& if the same,into the bottles. Mine maybe mid-week. But,anyway,they're both light colored ales. So this partial malt idea does work.
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:07 PM   #20
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I add most of my LME at the end of boil. I thought I read somewhere that DME needs to be boiled.... any merit to this claim?

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