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Old 04-26-2010, 04:54 AM   #11
DocBrown
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Just thought I'd chime in here that IIPAs are all about finishing hops. I recently brewed an American IPA. It's not quite big enough to be classified as an IIPA, and it's all-grain, so that part of the recipe won't be of any use to you. But here's my hopping schedule:
1oz Amarillo in the mash tun (you could get similar results by tossing them in with your steeping grains).
1oz Chinook for 60min.
1.5oz Cascade for 15min.
1.5oz Cascade for 5min.
1oz Amarillo and 1oz Cascade dry hopped.

It works out to 60IBUs for a beer with an OG of 1.064 (Ray Daniels suggests having approximately equal IBUs to gravity units for IPAs). I can't give you definite feedback on it since it's still bottle conditioning, but at bottling time it tasted fantastic even without carbing or chilling! If your IIPA is to style (OG somewhere around 1.090+), you're probably going to want 10+ oz of hops with about 75% of them either dry hopped or boiled for no more than 15 minutes.

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Old 04-26-2010, 03:17 PM   #12
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The recipe looks good, but you might want to write out your procedure. For example, what steps are you following for the PacMan starter?

Also, have you checked out the recipe database? There are a few good extract and partial IPAs, and I was thinking about brewing this one because it has pretty good reviews, http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/my-6...te-ipa-125474/.

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Old 04-26-2010, 03:37 PM   #13
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One other suggestion: I'd recommend using 0.5-1 lb of either table or corn sugar. It will help dry this out a bit and bring the FG down closer to 1.010. The general idea with IIPAs is to have an insanely hoppy-flavored beer that is still very drinkable. A more malty finish will push your beer more towards the barleywine style.

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Old 04-28-2010, 12:27 AM   #14
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[QUOTE=shuf;2027039]The recipe looks good, but you might want to write out your procedure. For example, what steps are you following for the PacMan starter?

The starter is pretty basic, and there are lots of other threads on that but I use six ounces of light DME boiled in two cups water then let it cool to room temp with the lid on the pot. I'll smack the activator pack three hours before pitching into a sanitized mason jar with the wort, put some sanitized foil on the top of the mason jar and leave it on my counter overnight and pitch it in the fermenter with my wort the next day at around 72 degrees.

As for the procedure, its pretty standard as well. Steep grains 30 min, Bring to boil, add LME, Add hops according to the schedule, add DME during final 10 Min, chill, strain into fermenter with 2 gallons of water, top off to make five gallons. Take hydrometer reading, put airlock on and forget about it for ten days before checking gravity and then moving to secondary for a week before bottling.

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Old 04-28-2010, 12:35 AM   #15
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I finalized my recipe, cut it down to three gallons as my Brother in Law only wants a case, and three gallons should give me close to a case for him and a sixer for me to keep.

0.25 lb Carapils 1.5L
0.5 lb Belgian Caravienne 20L
6 lb Golden LME (northern brewer)
0.5 lb Glolden DME
Hop Schedule:
1 Oz Chinook 60 Min 13AA, 55 IBU
0.5 Oz Centennial 15 Min 10AA, 10 IBU
0.5 Oz Cascade 10 Min 6AA, 5 IBU
0.5 Oz Centennial 5 Min 10 AA, 4 IBU
0.5 Oz Cascade 2 Min 6AA, 1 IBU
1 Oz Cascade Dry Hop in Secondary for 7 Days
1 Oz Steamed Oak Chips in Secondary for 7 Days

75 IBU's
OG estimated 1.085
FG estimated 1.019
For 8.7% ABV
8.4 Lovibond

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Old 04-28-2010, 12:54 AM   #16
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Two comments:
First, on your starter, you said:

Quote:
The starter is pretty basic, and there are lots of other threads on that but I use six ounces of light DME boiled in two cups water then let it cool to room temp with the lid on the pot.
That should be 6oz of DME in 2qts of water.

Your recipe looks decent, though your FG is on the high side for the style. I might replace the 0.5lb DME with 0.5lb corn sugar. It's a bit more fermentable and will dry it out a bit more. Either way it should be pretty good.
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Old 04-28-2010, 11:25 AM   #17
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I usually dillute the 2 cup solution with H2O as recommended in this thread: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/how-...ctorial-76101/

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Old 04-28-2010, 02:34 PM   #18
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I'm not sure about the pictorial instructions (certainly the airlock is not recommended), but here's what mrmalty says about starters:

Quote:
When making starter wort, make sure you keep the OG around 1.030 to 1.040. You do not want to make a high gravity starter to grow yeast. As a ballpark measurement, use about 6 ounces (by weight) of DME to 2 quarts of water. If you're working in metric, it couldn't be easier. Use a 10 to 1 ratio. Add 1 gram of DME for every 10 ml of final volume. (If you're making a 2 liter of starter add 200 grams of DME to the flask, then fill the flask with water until you have 2 liters total.)
If you're diluting your boiled solution back down to a 2qt-2L solution before pitching you should be fine. Just make sure your starter gravity isn't way too high!
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:07 PM   #19
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I wait 4-6 days until i pitch with a starter,for the best results.

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Old 05-22-2010, 07:37 PM   #20
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I just bottled this today, got a full case out of it when I thought I'd get a case plus six. Oh well. I tasted my hydrometer sample and it is really good. This turned out great with an OG of 1.088 and an FG of 1.017. The oak chips give it a very distinct flavor in addition to the hops. Now to wait a month for bottle conditioning.

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