Ss Brewing Technologies Giveaway!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Extract Brewing > First IPA Recipe - looking for input/advice
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 05-18-2012, 12:08 AM   #1
Spicemon1972
Senior Member
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Spicemon1972's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Montgomery, IL
Posts: 237
Liked 24 Times on 21 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default First IPA Recipe - looking for input/advice

Hey all -
I'm working on my first AIPA recipe and am looking for any advice or input you might have on this recipe.

This is a 5 gallon extract recipe and goes as follows:

Expected OG: 1.066
Target FG: 1.017

Projected ABV: 6.4%
62.1 IBU

Steeping Grains:
0.75lb Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L (Crushed)
0.25lb Caramel/Crystal Malt 80L (Crushed)

Place grains in grain bag and steep in 2.5 gal water for 30 minutes at 155.
Remove grains and add approx 1 gal water to get to 3-3.5 gal in kettle, bring to boil.

Malt:
9lb Pale LME

Boil for 60 min with the following hop schedule:
1.5oz Galena pellets at 30min
1.5oz Cascade pellets at 30 min
1.5oz Cascade pellets at 15min
0.5oz Willamette pellets at 15min
1.5oz Willamette pellets at flameout

Yeast:
Wyeast 1056 - American Ale or possibly Wyeast 1272 - American Ale II (undecided and would appreciate any yeast input)

Rack to secondary after 14 days in primary and dry hop with 2.0oz Summit for 14 days and bottle with 4oz corn sugar.

How does it look?
Thanks in advance for looking.

__________________
Spicemon1972 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-18-2012, 12:42 AM   #2
Yooper
Ale's What Cures You!
HBT_ADMIN.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Yooper's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Upper Michigan
Posts: 61,108
Liked 4481 Times on 3260 Posts
Likes Given: 870

Default

I'd suggest using about 3 pounds of LME at the beginning, and adding the rest of the LME at the end of the boil. That will help keep the beer lighter in color, with less of a "cooked extract" flavor.

I don't like a whole pound of crystal malt in an IPA, but if you like a sweeter IPA, it'll be fine- it's a personal preference.

I like more late addition hops, and less bittering hops (as it'll be bitter enough) and an IPA is all about hops flavor and aroma. I'd change up the recipe more like this:

1.oz Galena pellets at 60min
1.oz Cascade pellets at 20 min
1.oz Cascade pellets at 15min
1 Willamette pellets at 10min
1 oz cascade 5 minutes
1.5oz Willamette pellets at flameout

I've never dryhopped with summit, but if you like it that would be fine- 2 ounces of cascade/willamette would be my preference in that beer though.

__________________
Broken Leg Brewery
Giving beer a leg to stand on since 2006
Yooper is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-18-2012, 01:01 AM   #3
Calder
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,446
Liked 247 Times on 220 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

My suggestions ....... others may disagree:

1) 1.060 is low for an IPA. Need to add fermentables. I would add a pound of table sugar, it will up the gravity by 9 points and lower the FG.

2) IPAs like to finish 'dry'. Reduce the crystal. Adding table sugar as in (1) will also help.

3) Drop the Willamette hops and replace with some 'C' hops.

__________________
Calder is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-18-2012, 04:17 AM   #4
bobbrews
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Sierra, Nevada
Posts: 3,535
Liked 281 Times on 242 Posts
Likes Given: 18

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper View Post
I'd suggest using about 3 pounds of LME at the beginning, and adding the rest of the LME at the end of the boil. That will help keep the beer lighter in color, with less of a "cooked extract" flavor.

I don't like a whole pound of crystal malt in an IPA, but if you like a sweeter IPA, it'll be fine- it's a personal preference.

I'd change up the recipe more like this:

1.oz Galena pellets at 60min
1.oz Cascade pellets at 20 min
1.oz Cascade pellets at 15min
1 Willamette pellets at 10min
1 oz cascade 5 minutes
1.5oz Willamette pellets at flameout
Fine advice, but I would divvy up that Cascade between 10, 5 , and DH with the Summit. Add all of the Willamette at Flameout.

1/2 lb. of Crystal 40 should be more than enough.

For the yeast, I strongly prefer 1056 to 1272 given your two options. 1056 is cleaner and will accentuate the hops more in a good dry IPA sort of way. 1272 accentuates more cloying sweet malt flavors and an over the top juicy fruitiness from the hops IMO.
__________________
bobbrews is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-18-2012, 02:41 PM   #5
Spicemon1972
Senior Member
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Spicemon1972's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Montgomery, IL
Posts: 237
Liked 24 Times on 21 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

Thanks for the input everyone, I really appreciate the great suggestions. I'm going to take some time and digest all the comments and will post an updated recipe for further review. I think that this type of back and forth is what separates good homebrew from great homebrew. It is definitely a great exercise for a pretty new brewer. Who needs classes and degrees when you've got the amount of knowledge and the willingness to help that the HBT forums provide. Best money I have spent so far on brewing has been my membership to HBT.

__________________
Life can be Painless
When you're Brainless
Spicemon1972 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-19-2012, 03:50 AM   #6
Spicemon1972
Senior Member
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Spicemon1972's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Montgomery, IL
Posts: 237
Liked 24 Times on 21 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper
I'd suggest using about 3 pounds of LME at the beginning, and adding the rest of the LME at the end of the boil. That will help keep the beer lighter in color, with less of a "cooked extract" flavor.
Yooper - a question about the late boil addition of LME. I have read that LME needs 15 min of boil to sterilize it so do you suggest adding the remaining 6 pounds with 15 minutes left or earlier?
__________________
Life can be Painless
When you're Brainless
Spicemon1972 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-19-2012, 04:25 AM   #7
bobbrews
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Sierra, Nevada
Posts: 3,535
Liked 281 Times on 242 Posts
Likes Given: 18

Default

I would add 20% of the extract at 15 minutes left in the boil... Add the rest at the boil start. This is an extract beer so you want the hops to boil in a good concentration of wort, not plain water (or extremely diluted wort) for 45 minutes. You'll never get a really pale beer either way, and some melanoidin formation will be good here. Just don't scorch the extract and you'll be fine. Stir it completely in off the heat when you make each addition.

__________________
bobbrews is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-19-2012, 05:03 PM   #8
Calder
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,446
Liked 247 Times on 220 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spicemon1972 View Post
Yooper - a question about the late boil addition of LME. I have read that LME needs 15 min of boil to sterilize it so do you suggest adding the remaining 6 pounds with 15 minutes left or earlier?
Boiling doesn't sterilize (not at 212 F). What you need to do is sanitize, which is killing the majority of bugs, reducing their population so low that they don't out-compete the slower growing yeast.

To effectively sanitize something, you need to get it's bulk temperature to 145 F for 20 minutes, or 160 F for 10 seconds. Boiling is not necessary, so you could add the extract after the boil is complete and still sanitize it. The hotter the temperature, the easier it is to dissolve.

If the LME is coming out of a sealed container, it will already be sanitized. You can just wipe the container with sanitizer and pour straight into the fermenter. This way you will likely not get it fully dissolved to get a decent gravity reading, but the yeast will find it and mix it in for you.
__________________
Calder is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-19-2012, 05:48 PM   #9
NordeastBrewer77
NBA Playa
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 7 reviews
 
NordeastBrewer77's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Posts: 7,933
Liked 1075 Times on 783 Posts
Likes Given: 3977

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Calder View Post
Boiling is not necessary, so you could add the extract after the boil is complete and still sanitize it. The hotter the temperature, the easier it is to dissolve.
Exactly. As long as it's over ~160, the extract will be pasteurized by the hot wort, and that's all ya need. When I add LME @ flameout, I stir it in and let it steep for ~10 mins to ensure that it's pasteurized.
__________________
The Polk Street Brewery

Brewin' 'n' Que'n - YouTube Shenanigans

Quote:
Originally Posted by yeoitsmatt View Post
can i drink this? I mean. Im gunna. But is it fine?
Quote:
Originally Posted by yeoitsmatt View Post
it's not a barley wine. it's an ale.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bottlebomber View Post
Have you seen the price of ketchup lately? And I'm not talking Heinz.
NordeastBrewer77 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-19-2012, 07:59 PM   #10
bobbrews
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Sierra, Nevada
Posts: 3,535
Liked 281 Times on 242 Posts
Likes Given: 18

Default

More eloquently speaking...

Boiling in water for fifteen minutes will kill most vegetative bacteria and inactivate viruses, but boiling is ineffective against prions and many bacterial and fungal spores; therefore boiling is unsuitable for sterilization. However, since boiling does kill most vegetative microbes and viruses, it is useful for reducing viable levels if no better method is available. Boiling is a simple process, and is an option available to most people, requiring only water, enough heat, and a container that can withstand the heat.

Temperature, though, is not the only concern. Time also factors into the situation. The lower the temperature, the more time is needed at that temperature to effectively kill of bacteria.

__________________
bobbrews is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
stout recipe input/feedback jimmywit Extract Brewing 1 02-24-2010 11:37 PM
American pale ale recipe, need input? impulserush Extract Brewing 13 09-28-2009 02:53 AM
New recipe I want to try, need input?!!!! impulserush Extract Brewing 16 05-08-2009 08:03 PM
unsure of recipe for next batch - input needed myersn024 Extract Brewing 12 08-09-2006 12:19 PM
Need some input on a recipe anthrobe Extract Brewing 21 01-25-2006 08:18 PM