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Old 04-05-2007, 03:17 AM   #21
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Last two beers were done with late addition of LME. Don't know what they taste like yet. I used the same hop schedule indicated in the recipe. Next time should I use less hops? I used 1/3 of the extract plus the steeped grain water for the full 60 minutes. Is it as simple as only adding 1/3 of the hops?

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Old 04-05-2007, 04:10 AM   #22
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No, it's not. What's the recipe?

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Old 04-05-2007, 11:53 AM   #23
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could you use this technique to make a starter?

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Old 04-05-2007, 12:48 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfov
could you use this technique to make a starter?
I'm not sure what you're asking- when you make a starter you don't have to boil for an hour or anything like that. Just add the extract to the boiling water and boil for a few minutes than cool. The purpose of the starter is to grow yeast, not make beer.
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Old 04-06-2007, 03:34 AM   #25
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Today I asked my resident expert at my LHBS about adding LME late in the boil to keep caramelization to a minimum.

...he said that it's fine, but that if you don't do a full 60 minute boil with DME or LME you'll run the risk of a cloudy beer because the proteins that cause haze don't really have a chance to break down during the boil process.

...So, it's fine for a Hefe, but if you're really looking for a nice clear beer then this method may not be the best way to go.

Anybody have any thoughts on this?

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Old 04-06-2007, 09:39 AM   #26
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So you could potentially, steep the specialty grains, boil the hops then flame out and add the *ME, stir until dissolved? Or at least add just a tiny bit of malt with the hops.

Also, what is the formula for the amount of hops to be used compared to what is called for when you do this?

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Old 04-06-2007, 11:11 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikes65
Today I asked my resident expert at my LHBS about adding LME late in the boil to keep caramelization to a minimum.

...he said that it's fine, but that if you don't do a full 60 minute boil with DME or LME you'll run the risk of a cloudy beer because the proteins that cause haze don't really have a chance to break down during the boil process.

...So, it's fine for a Hefe, but if you're really looking for a nice clear beer then this method may not be the best way to go.

Anybody have any thoughts on this?
My understanding is that ME is basically wort that has already been processed and reduced down to a powder or syrup. Therefore, any processes that require boiling have already been done for the ME. The purpose of boiling the ME at all is to help dissolve the ME into your wort and destroy any beasties that may have found their way into the ME between the manufacturer and your brewpot.
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Old 04-06-2007, 12:47 PM   #28
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You got it, Matt.

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Old 04-06-2007, 03:11 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z987k
So you could potentially, steep the specialty grains, boil the hops then flame out and add the *ME, stir until dissolved? Or at least add just a tiny bit of malt with the hops.

Also, what is the formula for the amount of hops to be used compared to what is called for when you do this?
This is the way I did it. Made a ESB last weekend and it's rockin' in the fermeter right now. I didn't make too much more change to the recipe but then the ESB didn't have that much hops (really) compared to my IIPA. I did notice that the wlp002 yeast took a break for about a day and then started back up again with much more vigor. So far this is the longes fermenting batch I've had. 5 days.
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Old 04-06-2007, 03:33 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikes65
Today I asked my resident expert at my LHBS about adding LME late in the boil to keep caramelization to a minimum.

...he said that it's fine, but that if you don't do a full 60 minute boil with DME or LME you'll run the risk of a cloudy beer because the proteins that cause haze don't really have a chance to break down during the boil process.

...So, it's fine for a Hefe, but if you're really looking for a nice clear beer then this method may not be the best way to go.

Anybody have any thoughts on this?
I'm certain that process has already happened before the extract was reduced.

However, if your beer is too cloudy you can always use gelatin a couple of days prior to bottling.

I know the instructions for gelatin say to use it at bottling, but that stuff looks UGLY!! I use it in the carboy then rack to a bottling bucket a few days later. It works well.
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