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Old 04-01-2007, 02:40 AM   #1
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Default Extract addition in last 15min of boil?

The guys on basicbrewing podcast suggest adding LME in the last 15 min of boil to keep darkening of wort to a minimum. I guess one just boils water and hops for what ever called for time period and then add your LME and DME at the last 15mins of boil to sanitize.

ok, that just seems loopy. Does anybody do this? Any thoughts?

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Old 04-01-2007, 02:46 AM   #2
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I've been doing it that way for years. The reason is to keep the color as light as possible without carmelizing it more.

IMO using LME starts out too dark for EVERY style I know of. I do not recommend it...EVER.

You can add it, stir to dissolve, and let sit for 15 mins and it's the same as boiling it.

Remember, LME is condenced wort...why boil it again?

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Old 04-01-2007, 05:48 AM   #3
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Thanks for response. Yes, i've noticed that all my brews, which have been extract, end up with very similar color. The color never gets very light. A weizen beer with supposedly 60% wheat malt came out the lightest of all.
I take it from your post, homebrewer_99, you all-grain. Does the color vary more?

I suppose DME can be treated the same since it too is boiled and spray condensed to form powder???

So, what is the point of boiling for 60 min with extract? Is it purely to create proper hop bittering along with respective taste and aroma from hops? Is the boiling more important with all grain?

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Old 04-01-2007, 06:42 AM   #4
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Nope, I'm almost 100% DME...

Yes, the 60 min boil is for the extraction of the bittering hops alpha acids.

I've done lots of experimenting with my boils. I still boil 60 min, but I've also boiled 30 mins and doubled up on the hops which adds up to the same bittering percentage. It also reduces my time (30 mins) and use of gas (for 30 mins). Since I buy bulk DME and hops adding an extra oz of hops is cheaper than wasting a half hour.

I'll use 1/4 lb of grain occasionally, but not often. Are these light enough for you????

p1080797-00.jpg   p1140799.jpg   light-ale-experiment.jpg   p9280474-000.jpg  
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Old 04-01-2007, 11:18 AM   #5
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I've been doing this for a while too, I steep grains and do a partial boil. It's helps alot with the color and also with the hop utilization. Seems to be the best way to go with extracts.

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Old 04-01-2007, 02:09 PM   #6
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When I'm making something that calls for a lighter color I will often wait to add some if not all of my DME until the end. The only thing you have to be aware of is to adjust your hop additions since the utilization will be higher due to the lower gravity of the boil. I use ProMash to calculate the IBUs based on however much extract and grains I plan to boil for 60 minutes.

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Old 04-01-2007, 02:10 PM   #7
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homebrewer_99, beautiful pics! Hubba hubba! Thanks for sharing!

The Wernesgruner is a pilsner, right? I love the large bubbles on the head, reminds me of the head on Orval with its champagne like qualities(just a random observation!) and that color is classic pilsner.

Also, can you enlighten me as to what the numbers in your signature represent? Example: Bottled/Kegged: 7001-Mex Lager (K)..7007-Irish Red (K)..7006-Steam (K)..7005-HW..7003-HW..7002-Czech Bud (K)..6032-Light Ale..6031-Apple Mel..6030-Amer Blond..6028-Bitter Amer AmBASSador..6027-Helles..6026-Amer Ale..
TIA!

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Old 04-01-2007, 02:17 PM   #8
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This is a very interesting idea. I gotta start playing around with it. I'm chomping at the bit to do 1st all-grain. Unfortunetly my taxes are taking precedent over beer brewing. IMO a darn shame. UUgghh, gotta stop procrastinating. Sorry for rant.

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Old 04-01-2007, 03:11 PM   #9
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Combine that with the late hop addition technique... awesome 15 minute pale ale.

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Old 04-01-2007, 04:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uuurang
homebrewer_99, beautiful pics! Hubba hubba! Thanks for sharing!

The Wernesgruner is a pilsner, right? I love the large bubbles on the head, reminds me of the head on Orval with its champagne like qualities(just a random observation!) and that color is classic pilsner.

Also, can you enlighten me as to what the numbers in your signature represent? Example: Bottled/Kegged: 7001-Mex Lager (K)..7007-Irish Red (K)..7006-Steam (K)..7005-HW..7003-HW..7002-Czech Bud (K)..6032-Light Ale..6031-Apple Mel..6030-Amer Blond..6028-Bitter Amer AmBASSador..6027-Helles..6026-Amer Ale..
TIA!
Ja ja, Wernersgruner in Germany is a Pils. What's in the glass is my Light Ale Experiment.

Ah, my numbering system. I've been asked about that many times. It's really simple (for me). I've been working for the Army for over 30 years so I am used to using the Julian Calendar. This is just a modified version. The first number is the year and the others are the batch made during that year. Now I know I will never brew 999 batches in a year so I could really shorten it to 3 characters, but I'm used to seeing 4 so I use 4. The (K) is something new since I've just started kegging, so...(K) means kegged.

As far as my sig goes...the list is of beers I still have on-hand.

The list is going to get longer soon since SWMBO is dieting...so am I (for about 2 months until my next Drs appt). That won't stop me from brewing though. As a matter of fact I think it'll be beneficial as I may be able to brew 4-6 more batches in the next 2 months...they'll have time to age for pre-summer parties, lawnmower sessions, etc.
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