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Old 01-29-2013, 11:28 PM   #1
steelbadgers89
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Default Double IPA Extract Recipe

Second overall attempt at brewing, first one used a boxed set, this one is my own take on a hop-heavy IPA.

Grain Steep
4 oz. Briess Caparpils
12 oz. Briess Caramel 20L
Steep 45 minutes

Fermentables
9.9 lbs Light LME
1 lb. Corn Sugar

Hop Schedule (overall 60 min)
3 oz. Columbus 60 min
1 oz. Simcoe 30 min
1 oz. Columbus 5 min
2 oz. Simcoe 5 min
1 oz. Australian Topaz 0 min
1 oz. Cascade 0 min

Yeast
Wyeast 1272 American Ale II

Dry Hop
1 oz. Columbus 2 weeks in
1 oz. Australian Topaz 2 weeks in
1 oz. Cascade 2 weeks in

===============================
One question I have is- do you think I should dry-hop in the primary and just keep going for 4 weeks, or should I do 2 weeks primary, then dry-hop 2 weeks in secondary?

The store I bought from was out of Amarillo, which was what I wanted to use instead of Australian Topaz.

Any problems? Suggestions?

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Old 01-30-2013, 02:54 AM   #2
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Just wanted to say that Topaz is awesome! Just used it in a hoppy NZ wheat beer and it turned out quite delicious.

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Old 01-30-2013, 03:03 AM   #3
mewithstewpid
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I'd suggest ditching the 30 min simcoe addition and putting it in with you final kettle addition

Also i would personally use less Columbus to bitter but that's just me. I prefer let IBUS and more hop aroma so is just take some from the 60min and ad it at the end too

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Old 01-30-2013, 12:57 PM   #4
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I've considered reducing the 60 min. additions to 2 oz. Columbus, although I don't think I'm going to ditch the flavoring addition of Simcoe, but I might move it to like 15-20 min.

Good to hear regarding Topaz.

Anybody have an opinion on the primary/secondary fermentation question?

Thanks for the feedback!

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Old 01-30-2013, 01:11 PM   #5
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The carapils is unnecessary here and rather pointless for an Extract IIPA, especially only 4 oz. worth. You will not have a problem with head retention or body without it. The rest of your fermentables looks good. I would add 3.9 lbs. of the LME at boil start and the rest at flameout to prevent excess wort darkening and boost hop utilization. Add the sugar at flameout too.

You need a yeast starter of the appropriate size for this beer. www.yeastcalc.com or www.mrmalty.com can guide you if you input your projected OG and batch size. You can do 4 weeks in the primary with the dryhop during the last week, or you can do 2 weeks in primary and 2 weeks in secondary. If you were using a lower floc yeast, you could even do 3 weeks in primary (with that 3rd week being a cold crash) then bring back up to 68 F and carefully transfer to secondary, dryhop for 1 week, then bottle. It's your choice.

No 20-5 minute additions required. Plenty of great breweries avoid them and still put out amazing IPAs. But you can shift 30 to 20 or 15 if you want to. No harm done either way. I personally don't think you need it with the heavy focus on flameout and dryhop. Contrary to popular belief, you will get a ton of Flavor and Aroma from both of those additions. Lastly, I highly recommend doing a full volume boil with no top off water.

Revised hop bill:

40-60 IBUs Columbus 60 min
1 oz. Simcoe 30 min
1 oz. Columbus 0 min
1 oz. Topaz 0 min
1 oz. Cascade 0 min
1 oz. Simcoe 0 min

1 oz. Columbus 7-10 days
1 oz. Topaz 7-10 days
1 oz. Cascade 7-10 days
1 oz. Simcoe 7-10 days

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Old 01-30-2013, 02:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelbadgers89 View Post
I've considered reducing the 60 min. additions to 2 oz. Columbus, although I don't think I'm going to ditch the flavoring addition of Simcoe, but I might move it to like 15-20 min.

Good to hear regarding Topaz.

Anybody have an opinion on the primary/secondary fermentation question?

Thanks for the feedback!
Bob also nailed it in his post, you get flavor from the o min additions.

If you think about it, what is flavor anyways? Those huge pine, grapefruit, mango and other flavors coming from hops are not sensed on the tongue, but rather through olfaction (smelling!). Remember, the tongue detects bitter, sweet, sour, salty, and umami (metallic). All those wonderful fruit flavors we try to get from hops really come through the aroma.

because of this, I have only been doing 60 min and 0min whirlpool additions during the boil coupled with a nice dry hop. The flavor is huge of all those wonderful desired citrus notes! try it!


rich
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mewithstewpid View Post
you get flavor from the o min additions.
What's really going to bake your noodle later on is when you figure out that flavor contributions are still noticeable from 90/60/45/30 minute additions.

See Pliny the Elder's heavy early use of Columbus and Simcoe. IBUs don't even matter beyond 110 IBUs, yet Russian River is not shy to surpass this figure by more than double. So, they are aware that in addition to bittering potential, there are also flavor contributions coming from these additions.

Exclusive of AA% and Cohumulone Levels... imagine if instead they used 3-5 oz. of Sorachi Ace, Citra, Nugget, or Magnum at these early slots. It would be a different beer.
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbrews View Post
What's really going to bake your noodle later on is when you figure out that flavor contributions are still noticeable from 90/60/45/30 minute additions.

See Pliny the Elder's heavy early use of Columbus and Simcoe. IBUs don't even matter beyond 110 IBUs, yet Russian River is not shy to surpass this figure by more than double. So, they are aware that in addition to bittering potential, there are also flavor contributions coming from these additions.

Exclusive of AA% and Cohumulone Levels... imagine if instead they used 3-5 oz. of Sorachi Ace, Citra, Nugget, or Magnum at these early slots. It would be a different beer.
yes this makes perfect sense, i was just stating the fact that when people say they want to use cascade at 20min or simcoe at 30min for grapefruit or pine flavor, respectively, what they really want is aroma, because that is how those types of flavors are perceived.
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:32 PM   #9
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Eh, flavor and aroma go hand in hand most of the time. You can't taste if you can't smell.

But yeah... for a more perfumey, intoxicating, fresh, bright aroma... warm whirlpoool and dryhop additions are king. Heat and boiling kill aroma bit by bit. But it never truly dissipates 100% completely. If that was the case, we wouldn't need hops for IBUs. We would resort to a cheaper, neutral bittering agent like Quinine or something. Not so safe in large doses, but you get the picture. Early hop additions are not only contributing a neutral bitterness.

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Old 01-30-2013, 07:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steelbadgers89 View Post
One question I have is- do you think I should dry-hop in the primary and just keep going for 4 weeks, or should I do 2 weeks primary, then dry-hop 2 weeks in secondary?

The store I bought from was out of Amarillo, which was what I wanted to use instead of Australian Topaz.

Any problems? Suggestions?
YMMV, but my best IPA's are double dry hopped. I would say the second suggestion so let it ferment for 2 weeks, add first round of dry hops to primary for 7-10 days. Then rack to a secondary and dry hop again for roughly the same amount of time.
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