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Old 10-02-2009, 07:51 PM   #11
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I do like a 30 minute boil, just out of habit. I'm not sure on the chemistry involved or if a 10 minute boil is long enough if you go straight to adding hops. I also feel cheapened if I go through all the trouble and am only over a flame for 10 minutes.

The only real downfall of my formula is that it is NOT cheap.

1oz hops = $3
Coopers can = $18
3# DME = $15
Yeast = $6 (if you don't use Cooper's which I think is a fine enough yeast)

You can reuse the yeast, but you're still looking at about $1/pint for ingredients.

I skip steeping grains.

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Old 10-02-2009, 08:39 PM   #12
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so why can't you just use the Coopers can?

I was thinking of just buying a few of these for when I'm in a pinch to keep my pipeline going.

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Old 10-02-2009, 08:51 PM   #13
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so why can't you just use the Coopers can?

I was thinking of just buying a few of these for when I'm in a pinch to keep my pipeline going.
Just because it's not enough malt. The can is really intended to get you going.

The can is also designed for 5 gallon batches. I make 5.5 gallon batches. To get more alcohol I add 3# instead of 2# DME. Now what happens is that begins to throw the gravity hop balance off, so I like to add some more flavor hops at the end to beging to even it out more.

EDIT: I've done their Bitter which I think they changed to their English Bitter. It's a really good kit. It's surprisingly spicey with the hops. You could even do late hop adds with cascades and do an American Amber. PM if you want a recipe.
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Old 10-02-2009, 08:57 PM   #14
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excited to see how 3# dme makes this different that the ipa kit i followed the instructions on. that ipa definately needed some flavor / aroma hops.

it is a little expensive considering you can get a midwest/austin kit for about the same and it would be AWESOME....

my coopers kit comes in a bit cheaper as i bought some stuff in bulk.

can $17
3#dme 11
grains 1+
1oz hops 1

$30 for 5.5 gallons of beer.

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Old 10-02-2009, 10:11 PM   #15
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now when you say not enough malt...do you say that as a homebrewer or in general?

The only reason why'd I'd pick up these to fill my pipeline is for my friends who don't like overly malty/hoppy beers (IE: Labatt and Molson). Just wondering if the straight can plus added suger would cater more to them.

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Old 10-02-2009, 10:39 PM   #16
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I've always made Coopers canned kits, okay I've made one, at six gallons. This is what their instructions say and what the makebeer.net site says is the batch size. Austin Home Brew also lists these kits at six gallons.

I've seen instructions from other brew shops saying they are five gallon kits and they could be made that way, but you'd have to make sure you are adding the right amount of additional fermentables. Otherwise you might be making a higher gravity beer, which isn't necessarily a bad thing.

Anyway, the Mexican Cerveza turned out decent. I used the Austin Home Brew additional fermentable pack, which adds two pounds of additional fermentable material to the batch. I have a Sparkling Ale kit to try and for that I'm roughly estimating what was in the Austin pack and am going to just add one pound of light DME, one pound of corn sugar and 1/4 pound of malto dextrin and see how it turns out. I know the Austin pack contains all three of those items and is around two pounds so who knows how it will turn out. I would normally hesitate adding a lot of corn sugar to a beer, but, like I said, the Mexican Cerveza turned out pretty good and did have some corn sugar in it.

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Old 10-03-2009, 02:46 AM   #17
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I have made the Coopers Mexican Cervesa kit with 5 and 6 gallons. There is really no flavor difference between the two. Why not get 10 more beers?

Forrest

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Old 10-03-2009, 04:08 AM   #18
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I have made the Coopers Mexican Cervesa kit with 5 and 6 gallons. There is really no flavor difference between the two. Why not get 10 more beers?

Forrest
Amen to that! I'm really pleased with how the Mexican Cervesa turned out. Smooth, very drinkable, and great for people that are a little tentative about trying my homebrew. Especially my dad who tastes every beer I make and says, "Boy, that's bitter." Hmm, yes, what you're tasting sir are hops and in truth that brown ale you're drinking is relatively low in overall hop bitterness, here try this IPA!!

Also, order from Austin Homebrew, because they rock!
I even turned my brother on to them.

Forrest, is there a reason why you don't carry the Sparkling Ale? I tried a bottle of it and really liked it, but when I went on your site to order the kit it wasn't available.
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Old 10-03-2009, 08:57 AM   #19
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Way, way back in ancient history I used a lot of Coopers to make beer. Around a year ago I bought a can of it just to see if I could change it into a braggot, and it turned out great. It was gone well before it's time.
I think they turn out a good quality product that makes some good beer.
I do not think you should boost it up with just sugar, I don't like going over 10% additions or I notice a taste I don't like.
I like adding honey, (which extends the fermentation time and lightens the taste.)
Adding malt extract DME/LME will produce a good beer.
I think I'll pick up a can or two just for those days I don't feel like driving to the LHBS or a 6+ hour days.

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Old 10-03-2009, 09:44 AM   #20
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I made a ton of Coopers back in the day. Always added a couple of pounds of DME as well as hops. I used them kind of as a base kit, but they were very easy. I always told people you could brew them in a trash can and they would still come out good. This was back when there were a lot fewer LHBS. I would really watch the ads in the few trade magazines for new LHBS, call them and get a catalog. A lot of time I could save $2-$3/can. Enough sometimes to buy 3 get 1 free compared to LHBS (about 40 miles away). I still see a fair price difference sometimes. Just make sure you're pricing the same size cans. Of course, that probably doesn't help you, Kauai_Kahuna, you gotta pay for that scenery and climate. - Dwain

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