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Old 06-22-2013, 02:24 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by xxcommxx View Post
That makes sense. But why do most kits have you put the malt extract in and then bring it to a boil to cook the hops? The kit I have is the following:

1-steep specialty grains for 30 minutes
2- remove grains and bring to a boil
3-cut the heat and then pour in lme, stir
4-bring back to a boil and add hops for an hour
5-flame out
6-rapidly chill wort

So are you saying its ok to do the following:

1-steep specialty grains for 30 minutes then remove grains
2-bring to a boil and add hops for an hour
3-flame out
4-add lme
5-rapidly chill wort

Obviously I am new to brewing but will it make a big difference if I do the latter?

Thanks for your help
Keep in mind if you alter the amount of extract added at the beginning of the boil you will alter your bitterness level from the hops. If the IBUs of the recipe are based on you adding all of the extract at the beginning but you decide to save some for flameout you may have a beer that is more bitter than what was intended. You could plug your ingredients into one of the free online calculators like Brewtoad so you can see you that by adding only half of the extract at the start of boil and the rest at flameout you will slightly raise your IBU levels.
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:00 PM   #12
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I would add that Whirlfloc isn't as necessary if you plan on dry-hopping, because you'll lose some clarity from the hop sediment anyway.
Agree with the loss of some clarity, but it's better to lose some clarity from a clearer beer than make a cloudy beer even worse. Why not get it as clear as possible before dry-hopping? I would still use the Whirfloc without question.
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Old 06-22-2013, 04:05 PM   #13
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This is an interesting thread. When I was brewing extract, I had also shifted to adding more of the extract at the end, though I was using about 1/3 early and 2/3 with about 10 minutes remaining. I thought it was advantageous to boil all of the extract for at least a little while. If that's not the case, does it beg the question of what's the point of adding any of the extract at all prior to flameout? I mean why add a tiny bit up front to begin with?

Note that this is a serious question, even if it sounds like I"m being a smart-ass - that's not intended if so

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Old 06-22-2013, 04:18 PM   #14
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Note that this is a serious question, even if it sounds like I"m being a smart-ass - that's not intended if so
On my last extract batch, I made 5 gallons of Blonde Ale. As an experiment, I only boiled for 30 mins, and I added all the liquid malt extract, at flameout (0 mins), then performed a whirlpool/hop steep, for around 30 min. I didn't care too much about IBU's, was shooting for 40 ibu's.

I'd wait for an expert, to chime in, because I am not sure, if this is good brewing practice. I did it, just to try it. I got enough bitterness, out of the hops I added. I was attempting to make the lightest colored beer, I could possibly make. The beer, was meant for my Brother's barbeque, and Birthday party, which they finished it all, except for about a liter.

Here's a Picture, of the finished product.
img_0521.jpg  
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Old 06-22-2013, 07:25 PM   #15
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Ok I love this idea of late additions but if you get better hop utilization do you still need to do a 60 minute boil? How do you calculate how much time you need for the hops?

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Old 06-22-2013, 07:57 PM   #16
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Ok I love this idea of late additions but if you get better hop utilization do you still need to do a 60 minute boil? How do you calculate how much time you need for the hops?
You don't really get better hops utilization, at least not much. It's been recently discussed that IBUs aren't dependent on wort gravity. Break material may impact utilization, but again, not by much.

What I always recommend is using about a pound of extract for every gallon of water in the boil. This isn't exact, and can be a guestimate. I just find that the color and flavor is more like the comparable all-grain version of the beer if you do that.

So, if you've got a 3 gallon boil, and 6 pounds of extract, add 1/2 and 1/2 or so. I wouldn't measure it or worry about being exact, as close enough is just fine.

I think many extract brewers start with 2-3 gallons of wort and top up, and so starting with 2 pounds of extract at the beginning of the boil is very common.

You don't need any extract at all to get the hops oils to isomerize- you can get bittering without it- but the reading I've done seems to suggest that the quality of the bittering is better if at least some extract is boiled during the hops additions. I don't have a more definitive answer or opinion on that, so I just feel that a pound of extract per gallon boiled is about right.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:07 PM   #17
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You don't need to do a 60m boil to get enough hop utilization. You just need a lot of hops. Read about hop bursting. I like to make hoppy beers by hop bursting.

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Old 06-23-2013, 02:33 AM   #18
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For my extract brews: while I steep the grains in one 8g pot @ 155F, I slowly warm up the extract in another 2g pot (in about 1g - 1.5g of water). I stir the extract vigourously and when the steep is done in the other pot, I remove the grain bag and combine the two pots and commence the boil. this technique has virtually eliminated all extract burn and has resulted in great brews.

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Old 06-23-2013, 03:58 AM   #19
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@ jperry: That blonde looks good and light! Care to share the recipe? How's it taste?

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Old 06-23-2013, 04:30 AM   #20
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@ jperry: That blonde looks good and light! Care to share the recipe? How's it taste?
It was pretty good, although I would add some cara/crystal malts, next time. It needs a little more flavor. I don't remember much from the brewday and my notes are very vague.

Full boil: 6.5 gal for 30 mins.
finished: 6 gal
O.G.: 1.040
F.G.: 1.010

6 lbs. Extract: Briess Extra Light/Light Malt Extract
6 oz. Dextrose

Hops:

30min 0.25oz Centennial
30min 0.25oz Simcoe
0min 1.75oz Centennial (steep 30min)
0min 1.75oz Simcoe (steep 30min)

Half a Whirlfloc tab
Safale US-05 @ 66-68*F
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