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Old 10-23-2009, 05:24 PM   #1
gunnyg
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Default "Boil The Hops, Not The Malt Extract" By: Steve Bader

"Boil The Hops, Not The Malt Extract" By: Steve Bader

Here's the only guy I've found who comes right out in print and says this--and he's referring to extract, DME/LME; hopped/unhopped, etc.

http://www.baderbrewing.com/store/product.php?productid=22691&cat=396&page=1
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Old 10-23-2009, 08:45 PM   #3
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This is nothing new...

I've been doing Late Extract Addition and small boils since 1994...a full 8 years BEFORE it became a "new technique"...
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Old 10-28-2009, 02:13 PM   #4
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That is pretty damn cool.....
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Old 10-28-2009, 02:27 PM   #5
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Do you want to do a late extract addition with dry or liquid extract?
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Old 10-28-2009, 02:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidSteel View Post
Do you want to do a late extract addition with dry or liquid extract?
Either/Or/Both

You can do a late addition with either type of extract.
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Old 10-28-2009, 04:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homebrewer_99 View Post
This is nothing new...

I've been doing Late Extract Addition and small boils since 1994...a full 8 years BEFORE it became a "new technique"...
So what techniques are you using now? I would love to be the first on the bandwagon so in a decade or so I can talk about how I used this so called 'new' technique back in 2009!
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:01 PM   #8
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So what techniques are you using now? I would love to be the first on the bandwagon so in a decade or so I can talk about how I used this so called 'new' technique back in 2009!
I got the idea from Papazian's TCJOHB book back in 1994...the Hops Utilization Cahrt actually...as well as knowing the extract was already "cooked" once before so why re-do it.

If I'm brewing an all DME batch I try to keep my DME poundage equal with my water gallonage...for a 1:1 ratio for the boil.

If I boil 2 gals I'll use 2 lbs of DME, 3 lbs:3 gals, etc.

Now I'm mostly doing Partial Mashes, but use the same equation. Only difference is I convert the grain poundage to DME poundage to keep the boil water equal like before.

I've never done a full boil or an all grain. I have all of the equipment except a burner which I should be getting soon. I'm still trying to decide if I want a simple KAB4 or the rack setup w/2 burners, I think it's an RBA 5 or 6.

I ALMOST did an all grain a couple of batches ago. I only used 1.5 lbs of DME in the late addition.

I also have a wort chiller, but I still top off/cool my wort with several gallons of filtered water that I place in the freezer for a couple of hours prior to brewing.

A wort chiller seems like a big waste of water right now, but come winter I will probably use it to spray down my driveway when it gets snow covered.
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:23 PM   #9
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Hell, I assumed he was kidding when he appeared not to understand my post....

Anyway, No, I never fell for that boil yer extract stuff--except for a couple beginning batches back in '98 or so. My references were to the constant forums responses admonishing newbies, and others, that they *must* boil their wort for it to be any good. Sure they may start out pointing out late extraction, but end up adding to that their own opinions that completely render useless the late extract procedure.

Bader's piece on Boil The Hops, Not The Extract was the only readily handy article I found at the moment; many others, yes--but most with additional dos and don'ts to cloud the issue.
No, I'm not going to play your game of providing references, etc.
Enough narc-issism around these days as is.
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:17 PM   #10
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I've got a question for anyone willing to weigh in - If I follow the instructions in the Bader article, and assuming I drop my I.C. at about 10 minutes to flame-out to sterilize, if I dump 5 pounds of DME on top of that, will I be able to stir that well enough to keep the extract from sticking to my coils and making a big mess? It just seems like the coil is going to cause a problem.
If I drop the coil in after I stir in the DME, with the temperature around 170deg, will that be sufficient heat for sterilization?
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