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Old 04-19-2010, 05:48 PM   #1
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Default Black IPA (CDA) Extract Recipe

Been looking for a good CDA or black IPA extract recipe and stumbled across this one from another website. Would love some input and opinions before I start.

9 lbs Cooper light malt extract
24 oz 10L Crystal Malt
16 oz. Carapils
8 oz Carafa II
2 gallons water
Steep grain bag cold and bring temperature up to 170. Rinse grain over kettle with 2 pints of water, do not wring out.
Boil and Add extract
60 min 1 oz Centennial Hops
60 min 2 oz Columbus Hops
30 min 1 oz Centennial
15 min 3 tspns Irish Moss
15 min 1 oz Simcoe Hops
Dry hop 1 oz Simcoe and .5 oz Amarillo
White Labs California Ale Yeast.
White labs Burton Ale Yeast.

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Old 04-20-2010, 10:42 PM   #2
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that's a LOT of crystal in there! mixing the yeasts is an odd notion, but try it and report back. i mixed burton and edinburgh for my barleywine, why not? i'm curious how the flavors will play out between california yeast & the burton just add the grains at 160 and let the temp drop slowly, very slowly, until it reaches like 140. you don't wanna scorch the grains while they're mashing. i hope you plan on adding more water at some point since you're pretty explicit about everything but that's missing. a full boil would improve the beer by 10 fold, as well as adding the at least half the extract as a late addition (15min).

i think it's a fine recipe overall. a late addition of hops at flameout can really help in the hop flavor as well. i've been playing alot more with late additions (0min) of hops and it's been working really well!

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Old 04-21-2010, 12:17 AM   #3
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I just brewed the AHS BLACK IPA is pretty good so far but just aged a week.

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Old 04-21-2010, 05:40 PM   #4
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Jessup.
I definitely plan on adding more water. I'll use your temp guidelines for mashing. I have an extra oz. of Amarillo from a previous IPA, so I'll add those at flameout.
I'm still relatively new at brewing but learning fast. This is about my 10th batch or so and all have turned out great.

What does the addition of extract late in the boil do? and..
What do you mean by full boil? I use my stovetop and I always boil for a full 60 min.

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Old 04-21-2010, 07:18 PM   #5
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By full boil he mails boiling 6+ gallons to end up with your 5 - 5.5 or whatever your final volume is. Most extract and PM brewers will only boil half of even less then top off with chilled water to get the final volume.

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Old 04-21-2010, 08:24 PM   #6
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No where near black 7srm.. final gravity ended up near 1.017 just from all the Crystal and cara.. what is CarafaII?

IBU's came out to 189! might be over the top for my tastes and I really liked the Stone brewing Levitation IPA at 100 IBU's

try this to get it darker and a bit (48 IBU's less)
9lb Coopers Light malt extract
8oz 80lvb crystal
8oz Carapils
12oz Black Patent

1oz centenial -60min
1oz columbus- 60min
1oz centenial- 30min
1oz simcoe-15min
1oz simcoe- DH
.5oz amarillo- DH

Which comes to:
1.062 OG
1.016 FG
141 IBUs (for me I'd knock that back another 41 Ibu's recall hearing human taste buds stop registering bitterness at just over 100IBU's...)
32 SRM
6.2% abv

I may work up a all grain on this for myself and back it down to 100 IBU's

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Old 04-21-2010, 09:09 PM   #7
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"No where near black 7srm.. final gravity ended up near 1.017 just from all the Crystal and cara.. what is CarafaII?"

According to Homebrew Wiki Malts Chart, they have Carafa II listed right under Black Patent Malt at 412 SRM. It's listed as having aromatic characteristics as opposed to roasted or burnt associated with Black Patent.
So I think I'm going to stick with the Carafa II.

I did some research here in the forums and found out about doing half the extract with 15 min left. I think I will do that. The question is now, should I reduce the bittering hops because of this. I've read 15% and 25%. Which would be better? Does it matter?

I'm definitely reducing the columbus down to 1 oz for the 60 min.

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Old 04-22-2010, 01:02 AM   #8
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late addition is a good thing to do. you'll get better hop utilization from a thinner wort, color won't be an issue but it will keep the thickness down so scorching won't be an issue. 9lbs is a lot of dme.

I need to find some CarafaII! sounds great. plenty of uses for me in some of my darker brown ales and porters where I've been trying to knock back on the roastiness, without the crystal malt sweetnes.

I may cut hops back some for late addition... LOL your brewing a HOP BOMB! so a few percentage points of utilization over may net be too critical..

but it sounds good... been years since I brewed a big hop bomb, and never a Black IPA ( I see a pirate themed label in my future )

For my all grain work-up I've been trying to keep IBUs around 100. But I will be doing a longer thinner full boil so my hopping sched will be somewhat different at a 90min full 7 gallon boil...

I use tastybrew.com free recipe calculator not as good as some other you pay for (less features, and won't calculate for late addition) but gets in the job done for the basics. I guess you could do a work around by subtracting the amount of extract you plan on adding at the end (I'd say 1/2 to 1/4 at end since color isn't an issue) and see where you come out... last aroma hops should be effected too much by the late addition, just the bittering and flavor hops. Calculator should come close doing it this way.

Hope this helps.

I just need to find some CarafaII (I learn something new here all the time!) Asking my online shop to start carrying Brown Malt and CarafaII~

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Old 04-22-2010, 02:13 AM   #9
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I was actually planning on using LME because that's what I've always used. After reading some posts on here, I'm learning that it's not real popular and that LME flavor is preferred. If I used DME what would be an appropriate amount for this recipe?

I like the pirate idea for the label.

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Old 04-22-2010, 06:19 AM   #10
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about 20% less DME than LME... I'd round that off to an even 7lbs of dry malt extract should be right in the ballpark. tastybrew.com comes up with 9lbs light liquid extract (nothing else) at 1.056 O.G. and 7lbs of dry malt extract (nothing else) at 1.057 O.G.

A few reasons I stopped using liquid malt extract earl in my brewing history: my beers where darker than I wanted, I needed to warm the cans to get all the extract out, I couldn't reserve 1 1/4 cups for priming at bottling (I like carbing with DME seems to give a finer creamier head), I was stuck with 3.3 lb cans which made hard or impossible to tweak a recipe. and no matter what I got something sticky, counter, stove, brewing stick, just a pain to use.

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Last edited by starrfish; 04-22-2010 at 06:23 AM.
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